M1 Garand Smith wanted

Now on to the next issue. Set action in stock and install/lock the trigger assembly. Looking from the side of the rifle there should be a very small amount of clearance approx 1 1/4 inch from the back of the receiver to the back of the receiver legs. Hold it up to the light will make it easier to see. I'm only talking about the thickness of a piece of paper
If your stock doesnt have this wrap a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood and sand to proper clearance
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Dont forget to do the tilt test
You can see here where the OP Rod was rubbing , I removed a small amount of wood along the whole length
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The Op Rod was rubbing pretty good all long the inside, so I removed wood there also
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The rear handguard was to long on the nose and extended to far through the band and actually kept the front handguard front sitting where it should. Remove wood as needed
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Not all commercial stocks will need all of these things done and not all issues are covered here. Just a few things that you should check and you can do to improve the fit of these stocks.
Not all commercial stocks will need all of these things done and not all issues are covered here
 
There is an excellent Smith in Maine that does great work on Garlands, M14s and 1911s. Look up Gus Norcross at Angus Arms.


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I meet Gus a couple of months ago when my best buddy, DukeinFlorida was up to pick up some odd-ball Italian gun that Gus was working on for him. Hell of a guy, loved his "bunker" and equipment. The guy has written tons of articles for firearms news, shotgun news. He had a two part one on doing an 80% lower.
Anyways, super guy and does great work.
 
Unfortunately, I bought the stock 2-3 years ago from Dupage. Maybe it is less an effort and cost to find a good smith to fit it or do it myself. But all these posts suggest that I should keep the CMP birch stock for now (which does have a slight lower indentation at the front receiver heel area).

Beach is more dense and if it locks up very tight would make a good shooter.
Orlando has been gracious enough to share what he knows. He and many others on CMP forums have really helped me out. Thanks again Orlando.
There's really nothing hard about working on your garands. The hard part is finding the info and then just applying it. If you have very little mechanical aptitude then yes seek out a pro. Harry is just a quick drive down the road from the OP. I will contact our local guru and see if he will talk with you.
 
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Yes. Thank you and Orlando for all the info. I will try to fit the stock myself. It is probably major part of the fun and appreciation for the history anyway. Maybe I could then work on accurizing another low SN number M1 with a very loose stock (but excellence everything else).
 
I think your still just a bit "shy".
If you have other garands try different trigger groups and try the stock on another rifle?
Then all I can say short of getting to a known garand Smith is just compare each stock you have to each other. How is the lock up on your beech stock.
 
The lock up on the beech stock was tight, I can close it without any problem. I have two M1's, one is LEAD with very tight bedded stock (bedded when I got it from CMP). Another 6 digits SA has very loose stock. But I did not try them on this stock yet.

I actually have another older HRA stock and this M1's TG close without any problem.
 
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The lock up on the beech stock was tight, I can close it without any problem. I have two M1's, one is LEAD with very tight bedded stock (bedded when I got it from CMP). Another 6 digits SA has very loose stock. But I did not try them on this stock yet.

I actually have another older HRA stock and this M1's TG close without any problem.

I still think it will close. If you told me you bought this stock 5 years ago I would say you might have some problems. Even though the new stocks can have problems I'm seeing less with the stocks I have come across. The front ferrule is still sitting high on the boyds stock. Just a note the "fix" Orlando has for lowering the ferrule would be considered a DQ for as issued M1 garand match...unless they changed that rule lately ?
 
The lock up on the beech stock was tight, I can close it without any problem. I have two M1's, one is LEAD with very tight bedded stock (bedded when I got it from CMP). Another 6 digits SA has very loose stock. But I did not try them on this stock yet.

I actually have another older HRA stock and this M1's TG close without any problem.

Take a picture with the garand up side down and you leaning into the trigger group. I want to see where or how far the trigger guard goes down with some ummpphh behind it.
 
When I lean to it, the ring go down to half way of the trigger pull from the start of the resistant
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Your trigger assembly (floor plate for lack of not knowing term) does not look like it's sitting correctly.
Also grease your lugs. I will be digging out a few rifles to prepare for winter storage.
I still would give dupage a call and see what they say. After all their stocks are supposed to be better than boyds[wink]. After that call Harry he's worth the call and the ride over.
 
OK. I'll be working the Qual at the 300 from noon until 2:00 of so.

I'll bring a match-fitted stock and a set of calipers--and some abrasives and woodworking tools, if you are so inclined.

We can compare your stock against a known-good stock, and get an idea as to what is going on with the geometry.

The Mod Orlando suggested on relieving wood from the receiver legs back to in front of the receiver heel is solid advice--it helps accuracy quite a bit. You will have to touch up the stain afterward in that small area--but generally the touch-up is petty discrete. Doing the tilt test and relieving the area just under the operating rod is often necessary as well.

No worries. We'll get your Garand sorted out.

Let's establish COM late tomorrow afternoon via PM, and we'll rondez whenever it works.

All the best.

ETA: Also--google Gus Fisher and Garand stock fitting. He's pretty much the go-to guy.

http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/110306-fit-m1-m14-receivers-stocks.html
 
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Thanks. I will bring the original CMP stock that fits well.
this si a good idea as its a opportunity to see IF it does fit well......well at least for the best for "accuracy"

Make sure you bring a camera and do your best to show a tit for tat from stock to stock.
 
I have suggested a fix several times and have been completely ignored.
I will warn you if you start randomly removing wood you may end up with a very loose ill fitting stock
 
I have suggested a fix several times and have been completely ignored.
I will warn you if you start randomly removing wood you may end up with a very loose ill fitting stock

I think its more of hesitation than ignoring you. At least attempting to meet up with someone with some tools and more experience.

Although OP your hesitation to get over to Noah's is a bit surprising hes a town over. Worth going over to just see what guns he has.

Rt3 Winchester to Rt1 sagus is 20 min?
 
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Orlando called it.

Relieving wood from the receiver legs back toward an inch in front of the heel was probably the most important factor in accomplishing lockup.

I also cleaned up areas 4, 5, and 8 (see post #5 in link below for reference) with a #18 X-Acto blade.

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=147599

Here are a couple more good links (Gus Fisher and Orlando), for anybody interested in fitting DuPage stocks:

http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/136704-m1-garand-stock-sets-boyd-s-dupage-cmp.html

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/TightTriggerGroupArticle20121.pdf

All the best.
 
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I had trouble to go to NES today. Many thanks to Warm_Garand, he fixed the problem. Beyond, he also taught me so much about accurazing and maintenance. Reading text and instructions online is not the same of seeing and listening someone. Sometimes, one just do not know where to start first by reading online. Thank you again!

Orlando: Thank you very much too!
 
I have suggested a fix several times and have been completely ignored.
I will warn you if you start randomly removing wood you may end up with a very loose ill fitting stock

I am sorry, Orlando!. It is not that I ignored you, it just that I did not know where to start, and worrying that I would get a loose stock. Was going to Noah's on a Saturday when my schedule allowed. Could not find time on weekdays.

Sorry again, I could not go to NES to response until now. and Thank you all!
 
I had trouble to go to NES today. Many thanks to Warm_Garand, he fixed the problem. Beyond, he also taught me so much about accurazing and maintenance. Reading text and instructions online is not the same of seeing and listening someone. Sometimes, one just do not know where to start first by reading online. Thank you again!

Orlando: Thank you very much too!

Very true...now sling up and give is a report
 
I had trouble to go to NES today. Many thanks to Warm_Garand, he fixed the problem. Beyond, he also taught me so much about accurazing and maintenance. Reading text and instructions online is not the same of seeing and listening someone. Sometimes, one just do not know where to start first by reading online. Thank you again!

Orlando: Thank you very much too!

XP220--the stain that matched so well was Minwax Special Walnut.

When you work the clearance for the op rod, you might want to pick up one of these:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Red-Devil-Double-Edge-Paint-Scraper/20371188?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222018855453&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10356901084&wl4=kwd-1105784542629&wl12=20371188_10000002030&wl14=red devil scraper&veh=sem

A couple strokes with a Mill Bastard file will get it razor sharp.

After you're done, come on back to Harvard so I can watch her shoot, OK?

Great to meet you.
 
XP220--the stain that matched so well was Minwax Special Walnut.

When you work the clearance for the op rod, you might want to pick up one of these:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Red-Devil-Double-Edge-Paint-Scraper/20371188?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222018855453&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10356901084&wl4=kwd-1105784542629&wl12=20371188_10000002030&wl14=red devil scraper&veh=sem

A couple strokes with a Mill Bastard file will get it razor sharp.

After you're done, come on back to Harvard so I can watch her shoot, OK?

Great to meet you.

Thanks for the info. Yes I will refer to Orlando's suggestion/pictures on relieving fore-arm and op rod area. yes, I will come to HSC to shoot and join too!
 
Update:

Following suggestions here (Orlando etc) and Warm_Garand's tips on checking and fix clearance for the op rod. I shoot the M1 the first time today. Unfortunately that I was too exciting and forgot to bring any 100 yards targets. So I used my pistol targets in the bag and only shoot at 50 yards. I also ran out of day light so will try either tomorrow or next weekend.

Here are 50 yards two types of ammo (one clips each). I shot the Greek M2 Ball ammo first, then the Creedmoor ammo from CMP ($1.35/Rnd). It seems like that my shooting could not bring up the best of Creedmoor yet. BTW, I did adjust the sight between two clips.

thank you for your help!
xp220

image2.JPG image1.JPG
 
Update:

Following suggestions here (Orlando etc) and Warm_Garand's tips on checking and fix clearance for the op rod. I shoot the M1 the first time today. Unfortunately that I was too exciting and forgot to bring any 100 yards targets. So I used my pistol targets in the bag and only shoot at 50 yards. I also ran out of day light so will try either tomorrow or next weekend.

Here are 50 yards two types of ammo (one clips each). I shot the Greek M2 Ball ammo first, then the Creedmoor ammo from CMP ($1.35/Rnd). It seems like that my shooting could not bring up the best of Creedmoor yet. BTW, I did adjust the sight between two clips.

thank you for your help!
xp220

View attachment 213307 View attachment 213308
Well i only see seven holes with the HXP so your already ahead with rhe creedmoor.
Nice...
 
I just could not figure out the 8th bullet. Will try more tomorrow. They said that the Creedmoor brass is worth $1.00 each new (Lapua) so I am saving them for my next stage of the project.

Btw, went to see Henry at Noal's to get a M1 Carbine trigger housing pin. Nice guy! Thanks for the intro!
 
Could be three shots touching at 4 o'clock.

How many enblocs did you put downrange before you shot for record? It will sometimes take awhile (3 or 4 enblocs) for the rifle to bed in and get consistent after the action has been out of the stock.

Also--your gas system has been recently disassembled. The rifle may even out a bit as the gas system seals itself with carbon and the op-rod harmonic evens out a bit more.

Thanks for posting targets. Good stuff.
 
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