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M1 Garand Smith wanted

xp220

xp220

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I got a nice HRA that come with a CMP birch stock. I want to change to a new walnut stock I purchased a while back. I was able to replace the front and rear hand-guard wood. But I need pro help to fit the stock and receiver and trigger. Is there any good Garandsmith you would recommend?

The receiver could fit in, but I could not set the trigger going back.

The stock has very nice strips and I do not want to mass up.

Thanks.
James.

939373a114c29b8ef910dc1ec3697465.jpg
 
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xp220 said:
I got a nice HRA that come with a CMP birch stock. I want to change to a new walnut stock I purchased a while back. I was able to replace the front and rear hand-guard wood. But I need pro help to fit the stock and receiver and trigger. Is there any good Garand Smith that could help?

The receiver could fit in, but I could not set the trigger going back.

The stock has very nice strips and I do not want to mass up.
Thanks.
James.

939373a114c29b8ef910dc1ec3697465.jpg
Click to expand...

lower the rear sight until it bottoms. place the rifle upside down on a padded work bench or better a rug on the floor. push the trigger guard down until it it resists. Then just lean into it. Or use a soft mallet and give it a good quick smack. its new ....dot worry it will get loose in short time[sad]
looks like a nice stock where did you get it?
 
Can't help you with a smith but I don't think you need one. Sometimes those trigger groups really need a lot of force and a good slap to lock it up into the stock. A tight lock u is a good thing. Just make sure the receiver is in the stock correctly and try again with some elbow grease. When they assembled these at the factory they used to whack the TG on with a mallet.
 
Also I will add. Make sure the hammer is locked back. A little grease on the locking lugs is good.
 
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There is an excellent Smith in Maine that does great work on Garlands, M14s and 1911s. Look up Gus Norcross at Angus Arms.


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Thanks for all info. The TG locks well with the old stock, just hard to press down with the new stock. I see some damage/marks already so I filed a little, but not much near the marks. It still not going in.

I am in Winchester area and could driver up to an hour on weekend to find help.
 
xp220 said:
Thanks for all info. The TG locks well with the old stock, just hard to press down with the new stock. I see some damage/marks already so I filed a little, but not much near the marks. It still not going in.

I am in Winchester area and could driver up to an hour on weekend to find help.
Click to expand...

Did you lay it on its back and really lean into it.
Where did you get the stock. Try this link

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...KCCQQFggmMAA&usg=AOvVaw0GCxeG-JOgrso58p_H-Q5a

Also try Noahs motors in Saugus. That's not far from you. We have a guy out here on the south shore area also.
Other good places. Deans gun Restoration, shuffs , garand man , Orion 7 just to name a few.
 
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Thanks for the google doc document. The TG is like figure 1 in the document as far as I could push down.
 
man up and close it. That is the way a trigger gaurd is supposed to close. You will see wood compression marks on any stock
As already suggested, run sight aperture down, flip rifle over on carpet floor and lean hrd on the guard. You can also use a rubber mallet to close.
This is how it was done at Springfield Armory
 
Orlando said:
man up and close it. That is the way a trigger gaurd is supposed to close. You will see wood compression marks on any stock
As already suggested, run sight aperture down, flip rifle over on carpet floor and lean hrd on the guard. You can also use a rubber mallet to close.
This is how it was done at Springfield Armory
Click to expand...

Thanks I was looking for that picture. If it matters:
My "match" rifle sports a,New stock at first I could not get it to lock with out the mallet.
Two years later I can now just lean into it to latch it.

Post some pictures of the stock and marks being left. Where did you get the stock
 
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I will try to lean on it or use mallet after work today, then take some pictures. I got the stock from Dupage 2-3 yrs ago
 
xp220 said:
Tried mallet, did not work. I will try to see Harry at Noah's this weekend.
Click to expand...

just be warned Harry has been know to take a very long time. Also dont be surprised if he just smacks it closed.
Can you post a video of the stock and where the trigger guard starts to feel resistance.
 
Here are some pictures when resistant started and some marks. Using mallet did not reach closure at all. Leaning to it could move it down about 1/2".

I marked the TG with crayon and so that impressed marker can be seen-otherwise very hard to see. On the receiver side, there is some mark. The receiver fit very tight. I have to bang the stock against a pillow to separate the stock and receiver.

4cbbf2b1146d700e38e20aa57c5a0e51.jpg

1a1ffbc8d2d25b641c4fc3b35c62e0ac.jpg

0c3e6013509c152f749f02aa9c2ed0d3.jpg

1e9908fb41d0e0f8bceee42fa08da098.jpg
 
It is completely normal to see compression marks on the wood, look at any USGI stock and they will have them also.
Its hard to see but in the first pic it looks as though the trigger group is riding up on the angled area of the stock. This will keep the group from setting down were it should and make it difficult to close. If so these angled areas need alittle wood removed
 
I found that the heel is not seated the way as you mentioned. The front of the receiver has contact to the stock, but I could see a gap at the heel, not as you described.

Maybe it takes more to get the stock to fit!
 
xp220 said:
I found that the heel is not seated the way as you mentioned. The front of the receiver has contact to the stock, but I could see a gap at the heel, not as you described.

Maybe it takes more to get the stock to fit!
Click to expand...

If your having this many problems maybe it's time to contact the seller.
 
Unfortunately, I bought the stock 2-3 years ago from Dupage. Maybe it is less an effort and cost to find a good smith to fit it or do it myself. But all these posts suggest that I should keep the CMP birch stock for now (which does have a slight lower indentation at the front receiver heel area).
 
The last 1 inch of the heel should contact the stock, after that towards the legs it should not rest on the wood. You should be able to see daylight under the stock
Did you check to see if the trigger group was setting on the angles??
The light areas in this picture should not contact the stock
 
There has been questions about the fit of commercial stocks lately so I thought I would post my findings
In my opinion all Boyds/Dupage/CMP stocks need "some" work. Some more than others. Here are a few things I have found that need checked
You need to check the width of the barrel channel. If it is to narrow it will hold the barrel up and result in your rifle shooting high. You can see that I releived both sides of the channel in the picture
I also had a problem with the stock ferrule setting to high and the Op Rod rubbed on it.
I carved out some of the wood with a utility knife until it set in the proper position.
DSC00574.jpg

MVC-036S.jpg

Problem solved? Not yet, I then had to fill in the area on the bottom since the ferrule set lower so it would stay in place when tightened
I taped off the stock, and applied paste wax to the ferrule for a release.
Then placed JB Weld to the bottom of where the ferrule sets on the stock, put ferrule in place and start to tighten the screw but not all they way
DSC00580.jpg

DSC00577.jpg

DSC00581.jpg

DSC00585.jpg


Problem fixed.
Next issue, although it isnt a big one is sometimes the stock needs to have a cutout where the firing pin/bolt would hit. You can see here where the bolt contacted the stock when fired
DSC00569.jpg

DSC00592.jpg

Also may need alittle wood releived so the trigger clears when fired
DSC00591.jpg

If there is a small dent there the trigger is hitting and needs some wood removed
 

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