Gentlemen........The venerable 'ol Garand use enblocs and only enblocks, not clips or magazines or anything else. If I've emptied one I've emptied 1000 of 'em. Everyone has fit and everyone has gone "ping" when ejected. The Garand likes to be lubricated. How an enbloc would not work is suspicious and I'd definitely do a basic tear down and lube. That should correct any sticky enblocs.
I've shot my share at Camp Perry and can tell you that a typical, run-of-the-mill Garand can shoot extremely well without much "accurizing". The biggest issue, imho, is that older Garands tend to have a lot of muzzle wear. Stick a 30.06 round into the muzzle. If you can hide more than 1/2 of the bullet tip into that barrel you'll have sloppy targets. When I got mine, I could literally stick the ENTIRE BULLET of the cartridge into the muzzle, it was that worn. Fortunately I was able to find a duplicate replacement and swapping it in corrected that issue. Of course you can purchase a throat and muzzle gauge to accurately determine what your wear is. In the case of a slightly worn muzzle, simply have an armorer counterbore your barrel just to get to a tighter muzzle dimension. That's so the when the bullet exits it stays on a true course. IF you have a worn muzzle you'll never know where the bullet will land in 100 yards never mind 200 or 300. Throat erosion isn't much of a player with accuracy but should not become too excessive (headspace issues)or it could become more dangerous if gasses escape back toward you upon ignition.
Know, too, that there are a number of different enblocs you can find. One specialty ebloc allows for a single round to be inserted safely for slow-fire competition. Never load a single round into an M1 without it. Too dangerous. Another is a two round enbloc that will allow you to shoot it along with an 8 round enbloc to qualify for the 10 rounds rapid fire. PRACTICE swapping enblocs as this will ensure you get all 10 rounds down range accurately and without chewing up your thumb......thus the dreaded "Garand Thumb". That's a minor beartrap in there, fellas. When you get caught you'll know it. Yes, it happened to me in my very first practice competition. I spent the rest of the day with my thumb wrapped in masking tape and a napkin. BTW, there are a lot of enbloc collectors out there. Those things were made all over the place and have special markings to identify them. Check the ones you have against websites that offer up the info. It's a lot of fun and there are some rare ones out there.
Finally NEVER add a scope to this rifle. It's simply not necessary unless you're shooting an authentic M1D sniper version. The sights on the garand are exceptionally accurate and will serve you out further than you might expect. The example I have was made in 1941, has lasted this long with minor work and maintenance, and will go to my son and last him another 50 years with minor maintenance and cleaning. As guns go, this model of rifle will compete many decades into the future along side the venerable German K98 mauser. It's simply one of the most perfect rifles you'll ever own........again in my very humble opinion.
its only en bloc because of that silly French Canadian.
En bloc = all together, as one.
It is a "clip" and is inserted into the internal magazine of the rifle. In this link it shows the 276 10rnd garand clips vs 1903 clips
well maybe not but .276 is getting close.
www.northeastshooters.com
Accuracy well theres a lot to be said.
a good barrel a well fitted snug fitting stock and a trigger worked over to be smooth crisp and consistent goes a long way.
Quickest way to better accuracy is better ammo.
Theres not many garands that wont shoot better groups with better ammo than M2 ball. Although going from loose 6 ring to maybe inside 8 ring is a big gain its not what some folks call "accurate"
Throat erosion and muzzle wear can have a roll in accuracy but if the muzzle wear is even it wont be to bad.
i have a 1942 SA with readings of 3 and 3 and out shoots my 1952 HRA with 1 and 1.
Consistency is the key to M1s accuracy. One of my M1s will shoot a nice 2" group for 10 rounds if you shoot slow fire. As it warms it will corkscrew pattern up and to the left and back down a bit to the right.
its the most "correct" M1 I have so i dont really care.
Also just a note: throat wear will not effect headspace. Headspace is from bolt wear and receiver stretch and if some how the chamber or shoulder wears.
Bad en bloc do show up. More so with foriegn and new production .
I have many from some 1972 HXP M2. JMO/72 made in Germany that just do not work well. Tumbling them in the polisher helped about 30% of them. The rest I make Single shot clips or SLEDs out of .
Along with some poorly made clips there was a change in extrator groove size on the brass and some clips where manufactured for the change.
So if you use old design brass with ne design clips you can have problems.
One thing about the M1 is JCG designed it to run even with no "lube" and well worn.
the M1 was a very good design and built to last ages. Its why they are still around and shooting for score.
Also I dont think there is another designer who touched so many aspects of design from design of the tooling and manufacture to end product.
JMB designed so much nice stuff but left it to the buyers of his design to figure out how to build it.
its all good.