M1 Garand CMP service grade SA revieved 6/18/2021

[mac1911]

Heres a quick rushed look. So far nothing great or anything bad.
GI wood for what thats worth.
Feb 1944 serial # range
HRA 5-55 barrel
Bolt looks new
Barrel is about what I have seen in most CMP M1s carbon and copper fouled to death , crown is good CMP gives it a 2&3 for and Throat and muzzle erosion , My gauge agrees.
Bolt looks like NOS 1942 SA
OpRid looks rebuilt/refinished and 1942 era also
Dry fire trigger feels good.
handguard is a little snug
PLAN: clean and inspect and test fire then see what I can do to make it “better” for now Im using some 1972 HXP for testing
Testing will be done slow fire from a lead sled

Heres a rushed first look. I ment to say forged trigger guard. My phone is not the best for video and for what ever reason I cant get rid of the "bars" on the side like I used to ?

View: https://youtu.be/LlYaGJox4mw


heres the crown

View: https://youtu.be/me2r4YIrjRE

The 1st Nasty Patch Has a sticker in the stock and the stock is stamped with matching serial number sticker is dated 1970 plus elevation and windage , lets see how close it is come testing. 8 up and 1+?
looks like a Danish/Norway return? Maybe I will do a 6.5 conversion!

 

[jpm]

Looks nice! That is a Danish stock I believed based on the sticker. Love the green park on the receiver.

Check the butt trap for goodies!

 

[mac1911]

Looks nice! That is a Danish stock I believed based on the sticker. Love the green park on the receiver.

Check the butt trap for goodies!

no goodies, I have only had two surprises, A dope chart and a pull through cord.
Stock matches the rifle serial number so thats a cool thing of sorts. No idea whatr the stock is ......I can make out a ever so ghostly box and cross cannon on the stocks left side and a non sheriffs P
Hope to clean it up later tonight and test it out this weekend. Other details will be slow coming.

 

[jpm]

I think that sticker is the zero @ 300 meters.

 

[mac1911]

Stock Cartouches

 

[dhuze]

Heres a quick rushed look. So far nothing great or anything bad.
GI wood for what thats worth.
Feb 1944 serial # range
HRA 5-55 barrel
Bolt looks new
Barrel is about what I have seen in most CMP M1s carbon and copper fouled to death , crown is good CMP gives it a 2&3 for and Throat and muzzle erosion , My gauge agrees.
Bolt looks like NOS 1942 SA
OpRid looks rebuilt/refinished and 1942 era also
Dry fire trigger feels good.
handguard is a little snug
PLAN: clean and inspect and test fire then see what I can do to make it “better” for now Im using some 1972 HXP for testing
Testing will be done slow fire from a lead sled
View attachment 493639plus elevation and windage , lets see how close it is come testing. 8 up and 1+?
looks like a Danish/Norway return? Maybe I will do a 6.5 conversion!

I have an extra stock with a similar sticker in it.

 

[Mountain]

Heres a quick rushed look. So far nothing great or anything bad.
GI wood for what thats worth.
Feb 1944 serial # range
HRA 5-55 barrel
Bolt looks new
Barrel is about what I have seen in most CMP M1s carbon and copper fouled to death , crown is good CMP gives it a 2&3 for and Throat and muzzle erosion , My gauge agrees.
Bolt looks like NOS 1942 SA
OpRid looks rebuilt/refinished and 1942 era also
Dry fire trigger feels good.
handguard is a little snug
PLAN: clean and inspect and test fire then see what I can do to make it “better” for now Im using some 1972 HXP for testing
Testing will be done slow fire from a lead sled

Heres a rushed first look. I ment to say forged trigger guard. My phone is not the best for video and for what ever reason I cant get rid of the "bars" on the side like I used to ?

View: https://youtu.be/LlYaGJox4mw


heres the crown

View: https://youtu.be/me2r4YIrjRE

The 1st Nasty PatchView attachment 493637Has a sticker in the stock and the stock is stamped with matching serial number sticker is dated 1970View attachment 493639plus elevation and windage , lets see how close it is come testing. 8 up and 1+?
looks like a Danish/Norway return? Maybe I will do a 6.5 conversion!

Excellent mixmaster. Don't recall from the video but does the sticker and stock #'s match the receiver? If yes, you got a Danish return. As you would guess, 'klik's are your zero for that rifle, assuming matched to the receiver. Nice one.

What bore cleaner are you using? I might branch out from Hoppes 9.

 

[mac1911]

Excellent mixmaster. Don't recall from the video but does the sticker and stock #'s match the receiver? If yes, you got a Danish return. As you would guess, 'klik's are your zero for that rifle, assuming matched to the receiver. Nice one.

What bore cleaner are you using? I might branch out from Hoppes 9.

Yes stock matches receiver. Im going to assume this rifle was “rebuilt” in the hands if the dutch? At some point.
Although quick look bolt and op rod are from 1942 . Op rod definitely was refinished bolt looks like NOS

Bore Cleaners
For years I used Remington, big bottle from my dad. When that ran out I found GunSlick Foaming bore cleaner which worked great. Hoppes bought them out and squished that line.

I used this on the garand it works but not easily found locally, i used this for the patch pictured because it was handy at the moment

I also use GunZilla for a CLP all around cleaner not just for the bores

for super deep copper removal I use
Montana extreme copper Killer

For the rest of the cleaning I will be using wipe out foaming cleaner. It will sit all day as im going to a softball tourney So I will do a long soak with the foam about 10 patches then foam it again. Then I will do a few brush strokes 20 maybe patxh it brush it patch it. Then I will hit it with the Montana copper killer for one final copper mining run. This barrel is on the top of dirty barrels from cmp the LMR was the worst

Hoppes, never liked it or the smell

 

[Nick Leduc]

My phone is not the best for video and for what ever reason I cant get rid of the "bars" on the side like I used to ?

Looks like you started the video holding the phone vertical. Next time start it horizontal and keep it that way thru out.

 

[Mountain]

Looks like you started the video holding the phone vertical. Next time start it horizontal and keep it that way thru out.

Knowing Mac he may have done that on purpose. Either that or he knows it will bug some but was in a rush and did not care.

 

[mac1911]

Looks like you started the video holding the phone vertical. Next time start it horizontal and keep it that way thru out.

Eh , used to not matter ? Camera skills lack and seldom does it fet better , if so I usually forget what I did.
Someday I will pick up a decent camera and try better.....someday

 

[mac1911]

Knowing Mac he may have done that on purpose. Either that or he knows it will bug some but was in a rush and did not care.

Rush , you aint kidding! Day off , yeah right

 

[mac1911]

Yes stock matches receiver. Im going to assume this rifle was “rebuilt” in the hands if the dutch? At some point.
Although quick look bolt and op rod are from 1942 . Op rod definitely was refinished bolt looks like NOS

Bore Cleaners
For years I used Remington, big bottle from my dad. When that ran out I found GunSlick Foaming bore cleaner which worked great. Hoppes bought them out and squished that line.

I used this on the garand it works but not easily found locally, i used this for the patch pictured because it was handy at the momentView attachment 493800

I also use GunZilla for a CLP all around cleaner not just for the bores

for super deep copper removal I use
Montana extreme copper Killer

For the rest of the cleaning I will be using wipe out foaming cleaner. It will sit all day as im going to a softball tourney View attachment 493803So I will do a long soak with the foam about 10 patches then foam it again. Then I will do a few brush strokes 20 maybe patxh it brush it patch it. Then I will hit it with the Montana copper killer for one final copper mining run. This barrel is on the top of dirty barrels from cmp the LMR was the worst

Hoppes, never liked it or the smell

Heres the 1st patch after a 4hr soak with wipeout foam bore cleaner and the bore.
Along with what oozed out of the gas port.

 

[mac1911]

Heres the 1st patch after a 4hr soak with wipeout foam bore cleaner and the bore.
Along with what oozed out of the gas port.

Next I will use a brush with any type of solvent even dish soapy water works.
I will brush it about 20 passes in and back out. Its not going to hurt anything.
I will then flush it out with a spray cleaner of some type, brake clean ectect.
NEXT: another soak of foaming bore cleaner - make sure if tou buy foaming cleaner its for copper and carbon fouling.
If the patches come out super blue at rhis point its on to Montana Extreme Copper killer. Once its clean I will just patch it after each use until accuracy suffers or the yearly inspection/clean/rust preventive come along.

 

[mac1911]

Next I will use a brush with any type of solvent even dish soapy water works.
I will brush it about 20 passes in and back out. Its not going to hurt anything.
I will then flush it out with a spray cleaner of some type, brake clean ectect.
NEXT: another soak of foaming bore cleaner - make sure if tou buy foaming cleaner its for copper and carbon fouling.
If the patches come out super blue at rhis point its on to Montana Extreme Copper killer. Once its clean I will just patch it after each use until accuracy suffers or the yearly inspection/clean/rust preventive come along.

Once I get that barrel douched I clean the entire barreled action again simple soap and warm water does great
Then I give it a good spray down with this stuff , been using it for some time
The barrels in these old rifles often look brite to the naked eye but often its just light reflecting off oil , copper and polished carbon.
NOTE/WARNING
If you have a rifle you like and the bore looks mint and it shoots great dont bore scope it. This just a picture from phone and as tou see I cant replicate what I did in the previous bore shot!

Smells like a cross between liquid alox and cosmoline? Soak it and let it sit

heres the shit that came out after a good brush and rinse, nasty. No way im leaving that in for the next 50 years.

 

[mac1911]

Once I get that barrel douched I clean the entire barreled action again simple soap and warm water does great
Then I give it a good spray down with this stuff , been using it for some time
The barrels in these old rifles often look brite to the naked eye but often its just light reflecting off oil , copper and polished carbon.
NOTE/WARNING
If you have a rifle you like and the bore looks mint and it shoots great dont bore scope it. This just a picture from phone and as tou see I cant replicate what I did in the previous bore shot!
View attachment 493886
Smells like a cross between liquid alox and cosmoline? Soak it and let it sit

heres the shit that came out after a good brush and rinse, nasty. No way im leaving that in for the next 50 years.

Let it bask in the high noon sun for a while As it gets a final foam bore clean , from there I will be done unless its extremely copper fouled. The crud is so deep into the pores of the steel and “fire cracking” you can clean them for days and still never come clean.

 

[dw617]

Awesome. The best part about receiving a CMP Garand is disassembling it and cleaning it up for the first time. Then of course, shooting it.

I love the danish? stock with the s/n stamped on it...

 

[mac1911]

Awesome. The best part about receiving a CMP Garand is disassembling it and cleaning it up for the first time. Then of course, shooting it.

I love the danish? stock with the s/n stamped on it...

I had a danish before , serial on stock did not match and there was no sticker.
I do think its cool this rifle somehow lasted all these years retaining the “matching” stock since the Danes tagged it. The danish recieved M1s after the war 1950? Dont know how many more went over during the lend/lease program
But the 5-55 HRA barrel shows it was at least ran through a armory 1955 or later.
The 1970 tag at least shows someone zeroed that rifle. My guess is the NOS bolt and op rod was added just prior to that 1970 sticker being placed,?
Thats the fun part, this rifle been around since 1944 traveled well and handled by many.

 

[mac1911]

Heres a quick rushed look. So far nothing great or anything bad.
GI wood for what thats worth.
Feb 1944 serial # range
HRA 5-55 barrel
Bolt looks new
Barrel is about what I have seen in most CMP M1s carbon and copper fouled to death , crown is good CMP gives it a 2&3 for and Throat and muzzle erosion , My gauge agrees.
Bolt looks like NOS 1942 SA
OpRid looks rebuilt/refinished and 1942 era also
Dry fire trigger feels good.
handguard is a little snug
PLAN: clean and inspect and test fire then see what I can do to make it “better” for now Im using some 1972 HXP for testing
Testing will be done slow fire from a lead sled

Heres a rushed first look. I ment to say forged trigger guard. My phone is not the best for video and for what ever reason I cant get rid of the "bars" on the side like I used to ?

View: https://youtu.be/LlYaGJox4mw


heres the crown

View: https://youtu.be/me2r4YIrjRE

The 1st Nasty PatchView attachment 493637Has a sticker in the stock and the stock is stamped with matching serial number sticker is dated 1970View attachment 493639plus elevation and windage , lets see how close it is come testing. 8 up and 1+?
looks like a Danish/Norway return? Maybe I will do a 6.5 conversion!

All cleaned up and back together. Everything checked out ok
Front sight-tight
Rearsight- was loose especially windage screw
Lower Band nice and tight
Trigger- Respectful 5.5lbs and a good clean break.
Headspace-passed
Every part I can measure checked out-
Op rod spring was 20" and looked really good. No odd bends/kinks/twists and only 1 spring came out of op rod spring recess.

Few things I did find that I may or may not correct in the future
Hand guards where very tight
Rear hand guard is pretty tight between the lower band and receiver face. I can almost get a piece of paper in there.
Front gas cylinder was tightened to the extreme and had the front HG jammed up tight. It will not shoot well like that. So I tightened all the way then backed off the gas cylinder lock one turn.
Tighten the gas cylinder plug Until the gas cylinder just pulls away from being pinched between lower band and rear of gas cylinder.
Tighten the Stacking swivel so its not flapping around- may or maynot help in accuracy ?
Passed the tilt test.

Action lock up is weak- there is no real cure for that other than shims or a new stock.


op rod tab passed

I forgot about the gas cylinder gauge I received in Karma and forgot to check that.

I may clean up the stock in the future?

Bore was pretty dirty and after cleaning shows minor pitting but if you just look down the bore with your eye it looks nice.

Ready to shoot---

first test will be some 1972 HXP- 8 clicks up sights centered and see where it hits.

 

[Mountain]

All cleaned up and back together. Everything checked out ok
Front sight-tight
Rearsight- was loose especially windage screw
Lower Band nice and tight
Trigger- Respectful 5.5lbs and a good clean break.
Headspace-passed
Every part I can measure checked out-
Op rod spring was 20" and looked really good. No odd bends/kinks/twists and only 1 spring came out of op rod spring recess.

Few things I did find that I may or may not correct in the future
Hand guards where very tight
Rear hand guard is pretty tight between the lower band and receiver face. I can almost get a piece of paper in there.
Front gas cylinder was tightened to the extreme and had the front HG jammed up tight. It will not shoot well like that. So I tightened all the way then backed off the gas cylinder lock one turn.
Tighten the gas cylinder plug Until the gas cylinder just pulls away from being pinched between lower band and rear of gas cylinder.
Tighten the Stacking swivel so its not flapping around- may or maynot help in accuracy ?
Passed the tilt test.

Action lock up is weak- there is no real cure for that other than shims or a new stock.


op rod tab passed

I forgot about the gas cylinder gauge I received in Karma and forgot to check that.

I may clean up the stock in the future?

Bore was pretty dirty and after cleaning shows minor pitting but if you just look down the bore with your eye it looks nice.

Ready to shoot---

first test will be some 1972 HXP- 8 clicks up sights centered and see where it hits.

Now go shoot it!

 

[mac1911]

Now go shoot it!

It did ok. Needs a Trigger job , better stock she might come along better
32 rounds 2 sacrificed for function test
Loading the clip is s bit crunchy? Have to look into that.

As follows
Started with sights bottomed out and centered.
4 low left , 1 low left is the FnMfr HXP flyer - total 5 low left.
Next- raised sight to the danish dope 8 clicks up , seeing the results I figured +1 must be to the right, well one was not going to get me there so I went 4 do maybe + 1 is for the windage marks on the receiver? Any how 8+ and 4r
Landed 8 shots 12oc Center just above the black.
came down 4 and shot the remaining shots.
Not great not terrible and slightly better than average.
Used a 6 oclock hold

 

[Mountain]

It did ok. Needs a Trigger job , better stock she might come along better
32 rounds 2 sacrificed for function test
Loading the clip is s bit crunchy? Have to look into that.

As follows
Started with sights bottomed out and centered.
4 low left , 1 low left is the FnMfr HXP flyer - total 5 low left.
Next- raised sight to the danish dope 8 clicks up , seeing the results I figured +1 must be to the right, well one was not going to get me there so I went 4 do maybe + 1 is for the windage marks on the receiver? Any how 8+ and 4r
Landed 8 shots 12oc Center just above the black.
came down 4 and shot the remaining shots.
Not great not terrible and slightly better than average.
Used a 6 oclock hold View attachment 494107

That's pretty decent without a tight fitting stock and trigger job. Also later years HXP not really helping.

 

[mac1911]

Little Update:
So after a few trials with reloads that have proven themselves in other rifles this Dane is rejecting the good bullets. So the only mods I did between the first go round and now is replaced the trigger group with one that has a much better trigger. I also installed a solid gas plug , checked the handgard for proper clearance/looseness and thats it.
This rifle just seems to like HXP 1972 best. So basically Me/rifle/ammo are good for around +\- 3moa benched.
We will see how I do prone with sling on sunday. I think 16 rounds shot at slow fire pace was hot enough to show any signs of shifting when hot. Still has a little hiccup loading clips. I will try to post a help me diag this thing thread and we can figure out

M1s and most any rifle always need a shot or 3 to settle everytime you remove the action or clean the bore. I did both.
First shot low right , no sight adjustment shot 2&3 I gave it a click right and shot 4-5 , I came up 2 and 1 more right and shot the last 11 shots as you see it. That high 8 was it me or HXP?

 

[HorizontalHunter]

Nice rifle and interesting thread. Thank you for sharing your new ,to you, rifle with us.

I always enjoy your threads and usually learn something.

Bob

 

[Mountain]

My vote's on the HXP. The trick will be to figure out which one is the flyer- before you shoot it.

 

[mac1911]

My vote's on the HXP. The trick will be to figure out which one is the flyer- before you shoot it.

Its the 1st and last shot

 

[Mountain]

Its the 1st and last shot

I tried culling rounds that were way high or way low in weight. Maybe helped a little but still had the occasional flyer not explained by something else.

 

[mac1911]

Little better results with a lighter load
168 gn Nosler , PPU brass , 42.5 gn H4895 , FGMM LR primer.
If my eyes where a bit better I could do better on the vertical hold. This is about what I can do 3 moa on a good day.

 

[Mountain]

Nice, and a little surprising. That's about half your previous group size, correct?

 

[mac1911]

Nice, and a little surprising. That's about half your previous group size, correct?

Yes and the horizontal is much better than last test run.
Last load was all over the 9 ring with a few 8s . If I could see just a tad better that vertical stringing would be less.
We will come Aug Match