M&P Apex Sear Issue

Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
13
Likes
0
I received and installed my new apex sear yesterday (9mm M&P full size the sear is here). This is the first time ive taken a gun apart any further than a field strip, so i'll throw that out there first. I'm very mechanically inclined and after watching the video i knew i could do this on my own. I easily replaced the sear with in 10 minutes and had the gun put back together. To get the release the firing pin i need to pull the trigger all the way back and hold for a second or two and then you can hear the firing pin click. I tried this over and over with snap caps and its the same result. It seems as though the sear is machined too aggressively, but i've heard nothing negative about these. To trouble shoot i took the gun apart again and put my old factory sear back in and it worked just as it did before i put the new sear in. This tells me that i didn't bend or break anything in the install process. I then re-installed the new sear and the same problem comes up. As far as i can see, no parts of the gun seem to be modified. My questions are;

1. Has anyone had or heard of this issue?
2. I saw that the Apex site says that this works on current production models. I Bought this pistol used so im not sure how old it is. Is there any significant difference between, say the first production run and the newest one?
3. Any ideas on trouble shooting this while i wait for a response from Apex?

Thanks for the help...
 

yanici

NES Member
Rating - 97.3%
36   1   0
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
11,555
Likes
2,491
Location
N/W of Boston
I've never done it, but I've seen video about recurving the loop on the trigger bar. You should search for the video or contact APEX. I believe you'll need to open the loop on the trigger bar a bit.
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
13
Likes
0
In case anyone cares or has this issue in the future, Apex response is below.

Open up that loop a little.
Now, please know this is not a issue all M&P's experience but it does happen. Smith & Wesson M&P's take our parts all a little differently due to Smith & Wesson tolerances. They are designed to be 20-30 thousandths of an inch on either side of zero or center. Which causes each M&P to be unique in its own way.
Please watch the video below in the link and move forward to approx 9 mins into the video where Randy Lee opens the trigger bar loop and that should assist you with opening it up and getting that proper engagement for a crisp clean break

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9ncsSfXQDc

Basically he moves that loop .002"-.005" at a time and recommends .005" of over travel once the firing pin is released.
 

HTRN

Instructor
Dealer
NES Member
Rating - 100%
5   0   0
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
4,452
Likes
872
Location
Worcester County
In case anyone cares or has this issue in the future, Apex response is below.

Open up that loop a little.
Now, please know this is not a issue all M&P's experience but it does happen. Smith & Wesson M&P's take our parts all a little differently due to Smith & Wesson tolerances. They are designed to be 20-30 thousandths of an inch on either side of zero or center. Which causes each M&P to be unique in its own way.
Please watch the video below in the link and move forward to approx 9 mins into the video where Randy Lee opens the trigger bar loop and that should assist you with opening it up and getting that proper engagement for a crisp clean break

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9ncsSfXQDc

Basically he moves that loop .002"-.005" at a time and recommends .005" of over travel once the firing pin is released.

Let us know the results.

Good luck!
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Messages
107
Likes
11
Location
Westminster, MA
Had the same issue with my shield. I just took the gun apart and used a flat head to bend the loop up slightly. I just worked it till i got it prefect break position. Remember slight adjustment!!!
 

KH56010

NES Member
Rating - 100%
41   0   1
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
702
Likes
92
Location
Central MA
Go to Autozone and walk up to the counter. They have spark plug gap tools for about a buck. (it looks like a quarter). Use that to open up the trigger loop so that you can just slide the tool through the opening of the loop at .030

Apex sears work with a loop gap of .025 to .035 Setting it to .030 will ensure reliability for thousands of rounds.
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
13
Likes
0
Fixed it last night. The loop was the issue. I used feeler gauges and the loop gap was at .008". I moved it, reassembled 3 times and tested until i got it where i wanted. Now i'm at .026" and everything feels great.

I guess partyboy was right on! Maybe i'll move it out a little more tonight if im at the bottom of your range.

BTW Apex support is top notch. Had my email returned 5 minutes before they even opened and all other emails were answered with in 10 minutes. Great company!
 
Last edited:
Rating - 100%
28   0   0
Joined
Nov 30, 2011
Messages
234
Likes
3
Location
The North Shore
The Apex guys suggested that anyone without a set of feeler gauges simply use a folded up dollar bill as a reference. Forget about the accurate measurement and focus on the relative change in the trigger position at release to the layers of bill in the loop opening.

Before I used the bill trick and seeking carry reliability not ultimate accuracy I set mine up so it would *just* not release with a .050 punch placed between the rear of the trigger and the frame and would fire with a small piece of wire I measured at .030 placed in the same spot.

These days for maximum accuracy (minimum overtravel and reliable operation) I tweak the loop until the gun does not fire and then, open the loop until it fires and then open the loop an amount equal to a layer or two more of the aforementioned bill. This method has consistently worked for me!

Don't forget to polish the outer surface of the loop BEFORE setting the gap.
 
Last edited:

KH56010

NES Member
Rating - 100%
41   0   1
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
702
Likes
92
Location
Central MA
So, since not all will work at .025 or .035 I tell everyone to use the spark plug tool and just gap to .030 and call it a day. For best trigger feel, what I do personally, is gap it to .030 and then test it on a stock slide. At .030 it will set off the striker on a slide with the FSS USB installed, but most likely wont on a stock USB. So, I'll then open it up until it sets off the stock one. My last one was about .032 to .033. This just sets off the stock slide and feels pretty crappy, but once you put in the FSS USB it feels about as great as any 1911 trigger.
 
Top Bottom