M&P 2.0 Flat Face Apex

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Need some help guys. I'm looking at the Apex Flat Faced Trigger kit for my full size M&P 2.0, just got off the phone with a pretty knowledgeable guy and he told me the following: "I dont usually do or recommend the flat faced trigger swap because it eliminates a factory safety" when i asked him what safety it was, he said the trigger safety. it looks like it has the same trigger safety type mechanism as Glocks with that middle piece, but he said he has seen guys come in and the trigger will engage without that center piece depressed. This will not be a carry gun, its just a range toy / IDPA match gun, so im looking to get down to about 4.5-5.5lbs. Thinking about keeping the same trigger now and just putting the internals in.

Anyone have any experience with this trigger?
 
I do for the non 2.0. If anything, the trigger safety functions better than on the stock triggers. If your finger slides up the trigger, which it can because it’s, well, flat, it can end up not depressing the little safety piece and prevent you from firing. I don’t say that as a good thing just that it certainly functions. By contrast, I find it very difficult for the stock triggers safety to ever catch even when specifically trying.
 
I figured they technically still have them, was just thinking maybe bc of such a short take up and break that maybe the trigger went off before that mechanism has a chance to stop it on the inner trigger guard. I’ve scoured every video I can find on YouTube and no one ever demonstrates the “if this isn’t depressed it won’t break”
 
Well I can tell you, on the flat faced apex in my M&P Core, if the trigger safety isn't depressed, the trigger won't break. Feel free to not believe me or believe Apex designed a functional safety mechanism and trust your knowledgeable phone guy instead.
 
That's all I was looking for man, and the guy I spoke with sounded like he knows his shit being a gun shop owner, and having done many of these installations. It wasnt about not believing you, it was that i've never handled an M&P with one of these in it so i was just trying to make sure i didnt waste 165$.
 
eh.. with a really light 4.5lb trigger yeah kind of, with a hard holster or draw or something you never know what could happen....
 
eh.. with a really light 4.5lb trigger yeah kind of, with a hard holster or draw or something you never know what could happen....
My CZ Shadow 2 has a 5-5.5lb DA trigger and I have had 0 issues using it with a Bladetech OWB holster for USPSA. As long as you keep your finger off the trigger when drawing and holstering, and are using a quality holster that covers/protects the trigger/trigger guard, you’ll be fine. Just my $0.02.
 
All the Apex replacement triggers for M&P's have a trigger safety. The person was not a knowledgeable as you believe.

I have the APEX DCAEK Trigger w/APEX Aluminum flat trigger w/RAM (Reset Assist Mechanism) installed in both a M&P Shield (older original model) and a M&P 9C (older model w/magazine disconnect, yuk). Both were installed by a professional gunsmith. Not saying I couldn't do it, just was more straightforward for my circumstances at the time.

BOTH guns will not fire unless the trigger safety is depressed. I've never really thought about it until the OP brought up the subject. But I did go and test/confirm. Just sayin....

Jay
 
Just out of curiosity, do you really care whether or not that little trigger safety works?

I don't count on that safety to protect me from myself.

My CZ Shadow 2 has a 5-5.5lb DA trigger and I have had 0 issues using it with a Bladetech OWB holster for USPSA. As long as you keep your finger off the trigger when drawing and holstering, and are using a quality holster that covers/protects the trigger/trigger guard, you’ll be fine. Just my $0.02.

Yes, totally agree. It's a finger thing....

If you are around the Worcester area, you can test out both of my M&P's to your hearts content to see if you can have an "Accidental Discharge" using snap caps drawing or re-holstering. I have both kydex and leather holsters, IWB and OWB. Just PM me.

Jay
 
Just out of curiosity, do you really care whether or not that little trigger safety works?

If you pay good money to shoot a match and you fail the safety inspection at chrono you would. I haven't had any issues for my non-flatty APEX FSS. I know a bunch of people ran into trouble with their aftermarket Glock triggers at Area 7 when it was at Sig Sauer.
 
If you pay good money to shoot a match and you fail the safety inspection at chrono you would. I haven't had any issues for my non-flatty APEX FSS. I know a bunch of people ran into trouble with their aftermarket Glock triggers at Area 7 when it was at Sig Sauer.
Ahh good point. Totally overlooked that.
 
If you pay good money to shoot a match and you fail the safety inspection at chrono you would. I haven't had any issues for my non-flatty APEX FSS. I know a bunch of people ran into trouble with their aftermarket Glock triggers at Area 7 when it was at Sig Sauer.

What are the details of these safety inspections at chrono at big matches??
 
What are the details of these safety inspections at chrono at big matches??

Can't speak to IDPA but for USPSA Appendix C2

48. The Chrono Officer will inspect the competitor’s handgun and report any
failure of the following to the Range Master:
a. Proper function of the handgun’s primary safety mechanism(s)
b. Safe condition and operation
c. Compliance with the requirements of the declared Division
If you have a manual safety they will try to drop the hammer/striker with it on safe. If it does it fails. If it's a trigger safety they pull on the sides of the trigger without engaging tab (glock, APEX) or the hinged portion (stock M&P). There was some "discussions" on how hard they should pull. A bunch of aftermarket glock triggers failed this at A7 @ Sig. Some also test striker block to make sure the striker can't go forward without the plunger being depressed.
 
Ahh good point. Totally overlooked that.

Interesting.

.....
If you have a manual safety they will try to drop the hammer/striker with it on safe. If it does it fails. If it's a trigger safety they pull on the sides of the trigger without engaging tab (glock, APEX) or the hinged portion (stock M&P). There was some "discussions" on how hard they should pull. A bunch of aftermarket glock triggers failed this at A7 @ Sig. Some also test striker block to make sure the striker can't go forward without the plunger being depressed.

Don't know anything about aftermarket Glock triggers. For BOTH of my M&P's w/APEX flat triggers, I tested again and really really tried to make the trigger break without using the trigger safety. No matter how hard I pulled (I could only get the tips of both index fingers on side of the flat face trigger) I could not get it to break. The tips of my index fingers turned a little blue from the pressure.

With all the NES'ers who have done APEX trigger work, I'd be curious how many can confirm that this is an issue?

Jay
 
Thanks everyone. Think I've got enough to go ahead and buy it. Worst case, I don't like or feel comfortable with it, and i just put my trigger back on with the same internals as the Flatty. Who knows... maybe that guy i spoke with isnt able to order the flat faced and thats why he was just trying to steer me to the DCAEK.
 
Interesting.



Don't know anything about aftermarket Glock triggers. For BOTH of my M&P's w/APEX flat triggers, I tested again and really really tried to make the trigger break without using the trigger safety. No matter how hard I pulled (I could only get the tips of both index fingers on side of the flat face trigger) I could not get it to break. The tips of my index fingers turned a little blue from the pressure.

With all the NES'ers who have done APEX trigger work, I'd be curious how many can confirm that this is an issue?

Jay

I haven't heard any issues with APEX trigger safeties. However, I have heard about some issues with USB (ultimate strike block) NOT blocking the stiker. Either it doesn't spring back up or gets worn and allows the striker by. I found the old threat about it.
 
I had read something the other day about having Apex drill out and replace a 1/16" spring with a 1/8" spring, but I believe the 2.0's and even later manufactured 1.0 M&P's have the 1/8" spring.
 
just got off the phone with a pretty knowledgeable guy and he told me the following: "I dont usually do or recommend the flat faced trigger swap because it eliminates a factory safety"
Find a new guy. Seriously, don't let this guy work on your gun.
All Apex parts are designed to retain the function of all safeties.
eh.. with a really light 4.5lb trigger yeah kind of, with a hard holster or draw or something you never know what could happen....
4.5lbs is not a 'really light' trigger. With or without the flat faced trigger, the correct combination of parts along with polishing here and there, one can get the pull weight of a M&P to 2lbs, and it is still safe and reliable.
 
Yeah I guess it’s just far lighter than what I’m used to with our MA 10lb triggers so it seems really light to me.

I only called the guy to see if he had them in stock, I’m going to do the installation myself. Just figured he knew his shit. Maybe he was just trying to direct me towards the DCAEK that he did have in stock... done enough research and gotten enough second hand info that I’m comfortable with it all.

Thanks again all
 
Tim at Gartman arms put one of thee kit sin my 1.0 Performance Center 9L and I've had zero issues with it.
the safety works and the pull with literally zero take up is under 3 pounds.
it's pretty awesome :)
 
I did a little research on Apex before I got my Shield trigger. Ran across something about the Apex model for M&P Core where a Youtube user said (paraphrasing here) that tolerances on the forward (resting) position were too tight to allow the trigger to rest at its designed zero position, thus not allowing the safety to fully engage forward into its locked position. It was kind of like the safety lever was always half depressed even without touching it, enabling one to pull the trigger from from the edge of the trigger without even touching the safety.

Take that with a grain of salt because the video I saw was from 2014 and who knows if the installer put it in correctly. Maybe they redesigned since then. Maybe they didn't need to and that was just user error. The install (for the full kit) isn't exactly drop in, so I could see someone messing it up if they didn't have the right tools or just aren't mechanically inclined. I ended up buying and installing an Apex trigger and duty/carry kit for my Shield 9mm, and the trigger safety works as intended every time. I love it. Short, crisp break and the reset is pronounced tactile click just a couple mm off of full pull. Already tightening up this newbie's groupings.
 
UPDATE!!! Just installed the trigger this morning. Can not say enough positive about it. Short pull, crisp break, and smooth the whole way! And you guys were right about that guy having no clue. The safety tab on the center works just fine. Totally worth the money!
 

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