M&P 2.0 9mm: Apex vs. free state trigger

[Reptile]

Here in Massachusetts, guns come with a crappy trigger. Everyone who has a M&P needs to replace the trigger with an Apex trigger. Is this really necessary if a person can get the same trigger that ships with non-Mass guns?

Is the M&P easy to work on? I would not want to get a gun that I can't fix myself.
That is on reason why I like Glocks so much.

This is the install video:

F that...


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-K4A6ElMJo

 

[MAGA99]

I don’t have a 2.0, a mass trigger, or an apex trigger (just 1.0 with free state trigger). If you can work on a glock, you can work on an m&p. They’re basically about as close of a copy as you can get without patent infringement.

 

[drgrant]

All m&p triggers are shit from factory. The non MA one is just barely passable.

 

[drgrant]

I don’t have a 2.0, a mass trigger, or an apex trigger (just 1.0 with free state trigger). If you can work on a glock, you can work on an m&p. They’re basically about as close of a copy as you can get without patent infringement.

Not when an M&P requires removal of the rear sight it’s not.... lol.

 

[MAGA99]

Not when an M&P requires removal of the rear sight it’s not.... lol.

This is true!! Mine is slightly off and 4 plus years later I still can’t find the right Allen to get it loose!! I just deal with it as is.

In terms of the striker and trigger assembly, if you know glock, you’ll be ok.

 

[hijinx]

I've put the Apex kit in several M&Ps. It is quite easy. The only thing I can't do is the removal of the sight as I don't have a sight pusher (a decent one runs around $200). Usually i have the sights upgraded and have the striker block and spring swapped out then for no extra charge.

 

[Behind Enemy Lines]

I find the 2.0 series (free state version) doesn't need anything, it's good out of the box.

 

[jkelly1229]

Put the 3 pound kit in with the flat trigger. It's pretty damn good

 

[92G]

OP-

1) S&W is the only manufacturer of which I am aware who is installing heavier trigger and sear springs into their pistols for MA. Nobody else bothers with it

2) Installation of the apex is overall easy assuming one has a sight pusher for the rear sight. it needs to be drifted to swap the firing pin block. the apex firing pin block (part of the kit) is nice and rounded so as to remove some of the takeup grit. if one doesn't own a sight pusher like the MGW this step is difficult and better off with a 'smith or shop who does apex installations. if intending to install night sights this is a good time to do it.

3) as pointed out by Behind Enemy Lines, the free state 2.0 triggers are quite nice. I had a free state full size 9mm 2.0 and shield 45. both triggers are great and need no work.

 

[Nick Fury]

All m&p triggers are shit from factory. The non MA one is just barely passable.

If a stock M&P 2.0 trigger is shit then Glocks resemble a childs cap gun.

Mine is more than acceptable and the only reason I would consider an Apex kit is to lose some travel. The break and reset are fine for a $500 gun.

 

[Horrible]

Apex trigger is awesome. Never fired a 2.0 with a free s state trigger.

When installing the Apex only PITA is that you have to remove the rear sight to install apex firing pin safety

 

[Horrible]

If a stock M&P 2.0 trigger is shit then Glocks resemble a childs cap gun.

Mine is more than acceptable and the only reason I would consider an Apex kit is to lose some travel. The break and reset are fine for a $500 gun.

Break and reset especially are spectacular with the Apex

 

[Nick Fury]

Break and reset especially are spectacular with the Apex

As they should be for a $150 trigger kit. My point was the 2.0 is not shit. Trust me I’d love to get it someday it’s just my working collection has bigger needs atm. Unlike other strikers I find the stock trigger enjoyable where it is.

 

[RKG]

Installing an Apex kit in an M&P is not rocket science. Occasionally you find it takes a bit of manual dexterity (and patience) to get the little parts lined up so that pins will go back in, but no gunsmithing skills are involved.

I have done lots of these, and changing the striker block is no big deal. In the beginning I removed/installed rear sight with a punch and hammer; now I use a sight pusher -- either way works. As for the rear sight Allen wrenches, from memory it is a .050", but whatever it takes exists an any SAE Allen wrenches set.

Two hints:

S&W usually uses a bit of red Locktite on the Allen set screw, so it won't want to start turning. You can muscle it and maybe either bend your Allen wrench or, worse, strip the hex recess in the screw. If the screw doesn't turn with normal force, stop and apply heat. You don't want to put a torch to your pistol's slide; what I do is heat up a soldering gun and put the tip directly into the Allen screw. Only takes a few seconds.

For those who have done M&P 1.0s and are now doing a 2.0, the order of steps is a bit different, primarily involving the takedown pin/lever. Read the directions or watch one of the videos.

Edit: Another hint:

If you're only going to do one of these, you can use a .45 armorer's block like the guy in the video, or even that old standby, a piece of 2x4 with some holes in it. But if you're going to do more than a couple, get the red Apex M&P Armorer's Block. This keeps the frame from moving around, and all the pin pass holes are already lined up.

 

[Lxpony]

OP. I watched that entire video you linked and it was all I needed to do the swap. PM me If you want and I'll swing by and help you. I'm not too far from you.