KMM696
NES Member
Daniel Defense has a work around for a broken ear.
DANIEL DEFENSE AR-15 PISTOL GRIP | Brownells
Some other companies have made similar. Beats trashing a receiver.
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Lower Build Tips/Lessons Learned
- Thread starter EMTDAD
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DANIEL DEFENSE AR-15 PISTOL GRIP | Brownells
Some other companies have made similar. Beats trashing a receiver.
Daniel Defense has a work around for a broken ear.
DANIEL DEFENSE AR-15 PISTOL GRIP | Brownells
Some other companies have made similar. Beats trashing a receiver.
That's an interesting idea. For the price I am tempted to buy one just to experiment with.
That's fine, you are free to like or dislike whatever you want.
The one advantage I see is that is that IF the trigger guard were ever damaged enough to be unuseable, you could replace this one easier.
jayhitek
NES Member
Does Happen sometimes with installation of trigger guard.
If you're not careful when installing, it's easy to break on off.
There are precautions you can take. I wedge a block in the opening when I'm doing it. So it has pressure on both sides.
Once is way too often. But apparently it happens often enough for people to warn new builders about it.
Don’t worry about it too much...I’ve never had it happen. Just be careful and start your roll pins with a pair of channel locks where possible. Then just lightly tap through with a roll pin punch and if there’s any resistance, stop and inspect.
I forgot to add that I also have upper and lower vice blocks, as well as a gas block roll pin punch.
Adding a little lubricant to the pin or in the pinhole may also help.
Lowers are pretty straight forward. Take your time and it will go fine. Having an 'oops' kit might be handy in case you launch a detent into outer space (safety glasses not a bad idea!).
I over torqued a castle nut one time when I was learning and crushed the threads on a receiver extension. Don't do that.
I over torqued a castle nut one time when I was learning and crushed the threads on a receiver extension. Don't do that.
I do this too...Mobil 1 synthetic high temp grease goes in every void before pin or spring inserted.
Started doing that when I built my M14 from a bare receiver...talk about an expensive receiver...I think it was $450 and I was sweating bullets every pin.
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To me it either seems either the pin is to big or the hole is to small. Just way to tight the way it is.
1903Collector
NES Member
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Like overly tight that things are going to get wrecked kind of tight.
I just had to remove the bolt catch assembly from a lower. Taped up the lower on both sides of the assembly, stood the lower upright, and then used a plastic mallet and the thinnest roll pin punch I had and carefully tapped it out. No problems and the roll pin still looks useable.
They are supposed to be tight, that's why you have to use a hammer and punch to insert them.
The likelihood of a roll pin being the wrong size from a parts kit is very slim to none. they are standard sized pins and correct dimensions for reference are easily obtained. (see internet)
You might have a hole in receiver that is undersized due to incorrect machining or from finish build up but that is easily measured and corrected if that is the case. I've built a pile of them in various brands and never run across it.
Learning how to properly support your work piece when driving pins is part of the learning curve assembling an AR. Developing dexterity will come with repetition.
EMTDAD
NES Member
so.. finished up this morning.. 3.5 hrs total for 2 of us 1st time builds..
Lessons learned...
there's a small spring with one end wider than the other... that's the trigger disconnect spring. In my Anderson LPK, it was right next to the bolt catch so I was wondering why it wouldn't fit easily. Really looks just like any of the other springs at first glance.
if you need to remove the buffer tube, make sure to hold down the buffer retainer.. It'll fly off as you unscrew the tube. We were following the MidwayUSA video and our stocks differed so we went down the wrong path for a minute.
otherwise.. relatively painless..
Lessons learned...
there's a small spring with one end wider than the other... that's the trigger disconnect spring. In my Anderson LPK, it was right next to the bolt catch so I was wondering why it wouldn't fit easily. Really looks just like any of the other springs at first glance.
if you need to remove the buffer tube, make sure to hold down the buffer retainer.. It'll fly off as you unscrew the tube. We were following the MidwayUSA video and our stocks differed so we went down the wrong path for a minute.
otherwise.. relatively painless..
Yup. Some of these components and their fit and retention methods are head scratchers to me. Like the buffer retaining pin. Some of it is cost of manufacture for military contracts I'd wager.
Like when you're elbow deep in some auto repair and go wtf did GM or Ford or whoever do that?
EMTDAD
NES Member
By the way, the Real Avid armorers kit had just about everything we needed. The lower vise block was quite sturdy, the bench block was useful for the trigger guard, the punches included ones that were cut away on the side to get the bolt catch pin, and the little tool to get the front takedown detent/pin in made it quite easy..
This tool is amazing for installing the trigger guard roll pin. It makes it effortless and virtually eliminates the risk of breaking an ear when you keep the guard in between the ears during install.
Definitely worth the piece of mind when working on prebans. I have this tool, but Wheeler makes a similar one and I’m sure it’s just as good.
www.sinclairintl.com
Also, no tool is needed for the front pivot pin detent retention during pivot pin install. Just use an Allen wrench. Instead of using another round pin to hold the detent in place, the flat side of the Allen wrench is more stable as you transition to pushing the pin over the detent.
Definitely worth the piece of mind when working on prebans. I have this tool, but Wheeler makes a similar one and I’m sure it’s just as good.
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Also, no tool is needed for the front pivot pin detent retention during pivot pin install. Just use an Allen wrench. Instead of using another round pin to hold the detent in place, the flat side of the Allen wrench is more stable as you transition to pushing the pin over the detent.
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It’s not about using the right size punch or even keeping the catch in place with a slave pin. The problem is the shape of the lower and not being able to keep the punch straight.
Like it or not, using pliers and taping off the lower or pliers is a safe, repeatable, and easy method to install the roll pin.
- Get it started with the punch
- Push it most of the way in with pliers
- Finish it up with the punch
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1903Collector
NES Member
Ah, the punch I have is ground flat on one side so you can keep it straight, I think I got it from Brownells years ago, My only issue with it is it could be a few inches longer so it would extend past the lower. But like so many things in life there is more than one way to do a thing.
Proper roll pin punches and a complete drill index.
I can't remember the size, but whatever is equal to the front take-down pin makes a stupid-simple slave pin to install that front spring, detent, and take-down pin. That's easily the hardest part of it. With a slave pin, it's easy.
I can't remember the size, but whatever is equal to the front take-down pin makes a stupid-simple slave pin to install that front spring, detent, and take-down pin. That's easily the hardest part of it. With a slave pin, it's easy.
