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Looking for real world info on two suppressors...

They will never fail when properly attached, the problem with KeyMo seems to be people thinking they are properly attached. A good percentage of launched cans and baffle strikes over at r/NFA are KeyMo. Yes that community is mostly retarded but a mount should be retard proof, mostly.

I hate KeyMo because it’s long and heavy and 50% of my 13 Dead Air silencers had quality issues. I’m just done with Dead Air. They make one or two good silencers I’ll continue to run, there are way better choices these days.

Great info thanks JRT.
 
@JRT Got any from Silencer Co?? Also, 13 cans?? Jeebus... I must be in the wrong field.
I have an old Saker, decent on 300BLK but weighs a ton. I really like the Omega 9k and 45 on PCCs, they get a lot of use. I have a lot of silencers but I bought my first one in 1994 and maybe 4 or 5 a year since then as things improved.
 
@JRT

50% of 13 suppressors were f***ed up? Those are ridiculously high odds.

Curious what kind of problems you had and if they were right out of the box or if something happened after X amount of rounds.
 
@JRT

50% of 13 suppressors were f***ed up? Those are ridiculously high odds.

Curious what kind of problems you had and if they were right out of the box or if something happened after X amount of rounds.

The Nomad was welded wrong and wasn’t concentric. My Nomad L coating melted off like it was butter based. The Mask threads were f***ed up and I had to have a friend clean them up. My naked nomad looked like the old farmer next door welded it with a stick welder, sent back and disassembled and rewelded. My Sandman S baffles crumbled, it was over hardened Stellite.

To their credit they fixed everything quickly and they’ve been better since. Quality improved after KGMade started making their stuff, the BPI made stuff had issues. The Sierra is made by a dead air owned shop and early signs look very concerning.
 
The Nomad was welded wrong and wasn’t concentric. My Nomad L coating melted off like it was butter based. The Mask threads were f***ed up and I had to have a friend clean them up. My naked nomad looked like the old farmer next door welded it with a stick welder, sent back and disassembled and rewelded. My Sandman S baffles crumbled, it was over hardened Stellite.

To their credit they fixed everything quickly and they’ve been better since. Quality improved after KGMade started making their stuff, the BPI made stuff had issues. The Sierra is made by a dead air owned shop and early signs look very concerning.
They must be doing a major revamp/overhaul of the Sierra process after the initial launch. i’ve had mine pending since May 27th still on back order. how long did it take for you to see the issue in your SandmanS baffles? The Sierra was going to be my last DA can. will have to beat on a few of my others to make sure they are solid.
 
They must be doing a major revamp/overhaul of the Sierra process after the initial launch. i’ve had mine pending since May 27th still on back order. how long did it take for you to see the issue in your SandmanS baffles? The Sierra was going to be my last DA can. will have to beat on a few of my others to make sure they are solid.

Less than 1000 shots. They just kind of crumbled. Since the repair I’ve probably run 7500 rounds of full auto through the sandman and it’s almost new looking. It’s retired for now but it’s absolutely a hard use silencer. Tradition comes just don’t hold up to modern stuff.

I suspect after the initial Sierra failures they are reworking the process. At first I actually thought it was a Stellite issue similar to my sandman. Looking close at the pics they looked like the baffle welds failed.
 
Less than 1000 shots. They just kind of crumbled. Since the repair I’ve probably run 7500 rounds of full auto through the sandman and it’s almost new looking. It’s retired for now but it’s absolutely a hard use silencer. Tradition comes just don’t hold up to modern stuff.

I suspect after the initial Sierra failures they are reworking the process. At first I actually thought it was a Stellite issue similar to my sandman. Looking close at the pics they looked like the baffle welds failed.
It’s interesting. It really shows the failure of not having your own shop from the start. if so they would have nailed down these kinds of issues within the first couple years. but now changing manufacturers 2-3 times plus over the years it’s like each one has to relearn the fine tune issues. This is my opinion. They start with an incredible product on paper but the execution is the failure.
 
Do you have a link to the Sierra5 issues?

A few friends also have them on order but I’m not sure any of them have heard of problems.
 
Paper form. I was notified by the dealer when they received the stamp in the mail.

Eform I received the approval email with the stamp attached. My dealer had to look at it on my phone to get the numbers off it. Sounds like the approval emails to the dealers are slightly delayed.
 
E form approvals should be emailed to you as the buyer and the FFL at the same time.

Paper form is physically mailed to the dealer. Then the dealer will notify you to come get it.
 
Taking @JRT ‘s unspoken advice and assembled another host to run my was not unboxed Nomad L on to make sure it doesn’t have any manufacturer issues. Hysterical running a system with a suppressor as long as the barrel is. Need some more rounds down the pipe before I’m fully satisfied though. F84CD707-2F6F-4C7C-B668-A930B4A62A08.jpeg
 
My one suggestion is finding one that 'locks' into place when you put it on. The one I picked up screws on but doesn't have any kind of locking mechanism. I was concerned about over tightening it, but next time I take it out I'll really cinch it down.

I second this. My Curtis Tactical 30 caliber can does not have this feature and I have to make sure to really torque it down so it doesn't come loose (I kind of get a "running start" and friction takes care of the rest...the interfacing part on the can must be the same material cause it doesn't usually come loose). The locking mechanism will eventually wear out but not for a long time and it's usually a user-replaceable part.
 
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