Loading 38 special double ended wad cutters into 357 mag casings

[*chris*]

So for my first experiment with my LNL I am trying to load wadcutters in a 357 casing. I am using regular small primers, 38 special reloading data (231 powder) and a 148 grain lead bullet. Problem is the Hornady book calls out a 1.18" overall length which is shorter than the case. What should I do? You can see in the photo that I show a factory S&B wadcutter, the bullet I am using, and how far I have the bullet pushed in so far. Is the overall length important other than being too long to insert into the gun?

A few more questions:

1. When should I crimp a bullet, I can crimp, but I am not sure when I am supposed to as the manual is not clear.
2. How large of a flare should I put in the casing with the die before the powder drop? Right now, it looks like I am flaring the first 1/16" or so of the casing.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[jasons]

Why not use .38 cases?

 

[*chris*]

Because I have the 357 cases clean

 

[jasons]

I'm no reloading expert, but I'm pretty sure you shouldn't use .38 special loading data for .357 cases. For what it's worth I used 3.0 grains of 231 in .38 special cases behind those exact same 148 grain DEWC bullets.

(I seated mine to the crimp groove and roll crimped.)

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/139166-Reloads-n-More-.38-DEWC

 

[01SVTvert]

flare enough so that you can seat the bullet, any more is just overworking the brass.

 

[drgrant]

I'm no reloading expert, but I'm pretty sure you shouldn't use .38 special loading data for .357 cases.

Generally speaking it's not going to hurt anything, particularly given that they're running in a .357 magnum revolver. If anything it'll keep the cylinder a little more tidy because it's not doing the usual "gunking up the freebore" bit that you get when you use .38s in a .357.

The only reason I never did it is because .357 Magnum brass is, in relative terms, harder to come by.

-Mike

 

[jasons]

Generally speaking it's not going to hurt anything, particularly given that they're running in a .357 magnum revolver. If anything it'll keep the cylinder a little more tidy because it's not doing the usual "gunking up the freebore" bit that you get when you use .38s in a .357.

The only reason I never did it is because .357 Magnum brass is, in relative terms, harder to come by.

-Mike

Seems to me like you'd want to add a couple tenths of a grain of powder to make up for the increased case volume, but looking at actual printed loading data it looks like the opposite is true. I have no idea why - maybe someone here can explain the physics for me.

 

[BTSDOG]

Simply put, if i was loading 357 mag, i would be using 357 dies and 357 load data for that bullet... Jmo

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk

 

[Slowdive]

1. When should I crimp a bullet, I can crimp, but I am not sure when I am supposed to as the manual is not clear.

I assume you mean "when do you roll crimp a bullet?" I do for all revolver rounds, sometimes they are mild crimps for lighter loads. The only purpose of crimping is to make sure the bullets don't back out under recoil...if they are, then you need more crimp. Crimp it where the crimp groove is.

2. How large of a flare should I put in the casing with the die before the powder drop? Right now, it looks like I am flaring the first 1/16" or so of the casing.

Just enough to get the bullet in the case w/o shaving lead off the sides of it. Overdoing it gets you nothing and overworks the brass = shorter brass life.

I am using regular small primers, 38 special reloading data (231 powder) and a 148 grain lead bullet. Problem is the Hornady book calls out a 1.18" overall length which is shorter than the case.

38 load data may work fine, but remember with the added case volume you'll get lower pressures than you would in a .38. Why don't you want to use the starting load for .357...it'll be plenty mild? Re: OAL...the crimp groove will determine that. With mild loads in a revolver, don't worry about OAL.

Seems to me like you'd want to add a couple tenths of a grain of powder to make up for the increased case volume, but looking at actual printed loading data it looks like the opposite is true. I have no idea why - maybe someone here can explain the physics for me.

This doesn't make any sense to me either . I'm, guessing your manual assumes that you are using mag primers for the .357 and std primers for the .38. Using a mag primer is similar to adding ~0.5 gn, IIRC, of fast pistol powder (like Bullseye, WW231).

 

[*chris*]

Finally got to the range today and shot 25 of these rounds, they shot well and were consistent. Very little recoil and a lot less kick than some blazer 38 specials I shot as well. I guess I need to buy a chronometer before I start cranking up the powder. The 231 powder seems very dirty and the guns cylinder is covered in soot.

Chris