Lab Radar, MagnetoSpeed or Other

all these old style chonos with "antennae" are junk compared to modern suff like Magnetospeed or Labradar. The price might seem right but don't get it. it's so finiky, you'll be throwing it in the garbage.
Magnetospeet is 1/3 the cost of labradar. If you don't need pistols, Get MS and save money for ammo. If price is no object, get the Labradar and flex on the poors!
 
Both are great. Both have their benefits and drawbacks. I'm running a MSV3 and love it. The one drawback is that it won't reach the muzzle with a can or a long brake/tuner setup. There are possible solutions, like the MK machining arca mount/extender, but then you lose some of the convenience factor.

That said, I still love the magnetospeed. It is accurate, quick to use, works well with rimfire and centerfire, and literally takes 30 seconds to strap to the barrel and check line of bore. I understand the hesitation to strap something to the barrel but in reality I think the concern or wreaking havoc on accuracy is unsubstantiated. It may shift my POI a hair, but it doesn't affect the velocity data I'm gathering and I'm not trying to zero my rifle with the chrono attached. An accurate load will still be an accurate load. I can repeatedly chrono, tune and zero my rifle in 20 rounds in under 20mins. I'm not convinced a Labradar would save me time or effort, but it is undoubtedly a nice chrono for it's other features. It uses doppler to calculate velocity further from the muzzle, the downside being that it needs to be oriented separately in the direction of your shots, and is more bulky to transport.

Another consideration, if you may need to chrono on uneven terrain, labradar can be a bitch without a stable tripod setup, which will run another $200+. Magnetospeed follows the muzzle and it doesn't matter which direction you're shooting or the kind of terrain you're on.

The rubber shim is high temp silicone and i've strapped the MS bayo directly to my Sig SRD 762 suppressor . Im able to get off a 3 shot test string without any heat issues. I dont think i would be ripping off 10 quick shots in the dead of summer but you can get reads with the bayo clamped to your can.
 
Interesting. I remember watching a video from Erik that said the same thing, he doesn't give a sh*t about groups, he cares about consistency. Then looks at groups.

Like everything, there are 10 different ways of doing it.

Anyway, I was leaning towards Magneto, but I also need to develop a good chart for the Sharps, the problem with the Sharps and big cast bullets is I don't know the BC, but the bullet is big enough that I can get a reading at 100 yards (in theory). So with muzzle velocity + 100 yards velocity + bullet weight, that should be enough for BC and calculating drops.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, it is all about learning.

Broc, a word of caution about testing the Sharps with the MS bayo. Not sure if you are looking to test smokeless or BP but when i tested my Sharps with BP and heavy cast bullets i had a situation where post shot debris was hitting the bayo's read deck and actually caused my bayo to fail. There was multiple scrapes on the deck. I had the bayo properly adjusted and tight. Sent it to MS for warranty consideration and they commented they would honor a warranty replacement one time but they said it looked like a bullet (or debris fragments) strike on the deck . So now when i test bp i use my shoot through style chronos' . Just a heads up.
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Broc, a word of caution about testing the Sharps with the MS bayo. Not sure if you are looking to test smokeless or BP but when i tested my Sharps with BP and heavy cast bullets i had a situation where post shot debris was hitting the bayo's read deck and actually caused my bayo to fail. There was multiple scrapes on the deck. I had the bayo properly adjusted and tight. Sent it to MS for warranty consideration and they commented they would honor a warranty replacement one time but they said it looked like a bullet (or debris fragments) strike on the deck . So now when i test bp i use my shoot through style chronos' . Just a heads up.
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Good point, I thought that would happen with BP.
 
you gotta look for more videos on the topic - of what people do, for 22lr, for suppressed, and it does not seem to be only that.
dunno. i do not own it, so, like i said - i can only speculate based on what i saw. and it all turned me off, somewhat.
I have not had a problem setting it up for my Benjamin Marauder. Which is a suppressed (moderated) .22 pre-charged pneumatic air rifle.
 
I have a lab radar, I have a battery pack for it and I control it from my phone. I can’t really think of an easier setup. I did do the straw trick on the aiming reticle to help initial setup.
 
Oh, this is a broc thread. So let me summarize the relevant information that he cares about…..

NES recommendation is to get lab radar, and shoot 9mm H&K’s at plywood targets to flex on the poors.

Trying to grab lab radar data with a 6.5 manbun just reads “tilt” real Chad detected.

Ok that’s enough fun. The magneto speed is cool if you are seeking muzzle velocity data for rifles predominately. I almost went that route. But I’m a professional nerd. And too much data is impossible. I have not had issues getting lab radar readings with everything I have wanted to see how it was running. I don’t know where people are getting the problems from. Perhaps they breeze over the directions. I have grabbed the velocity data for the distances I wanted from bows, crossman American classic pump pistol in .177, developed my 10mm load running 1380 FPS with a 180 grain, all up to the .338 NM. I did buy it back when it was $600. And it does sit in my office most of the time.
Dad still uses and prefers the shoot through style. Because he is old. The data between the two is close. (Within 50 FPS). If you are working BP, I’d go LR, just because you can’t likely damage it.
 
I saw some places sell a red dot mount for Lab Radar.

My question is ... how do you know that red dot is pointing at the target?
Seem like a waste of money (adding a red dot to ot)

Are people guessing? Maybe sighting it at home with a laser?
 
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I saw some places sell a red dot mount for Lab Radar.

My question is ... how do you know that red dot is pointing at the target?
Seem like a waste of money (adding a red dot to ot)

Are people guessing? Maybe sighting it at home with a laser?
That sounds like overkill. I never had to do anything other than eyeball it.
 
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