Kroil locally?

Mix acetone and tranny fluid 50/50, you'll get the same thing only better. We used Kroil to free turbo waste gates on Cessna aircraft, then we tried the above solution and it worked tons better.....
What type of tranny fluid ?
Just about anything will work if it can get into the space you need to free up. They are not the same and Transmission fluid has a shitty smell.
Kroil

Dex III
 
Last edited:
I know amazon has it but I don't need $35 worth of stuff right now to get the free shipping. And I want it this weekend so I can start de-rusting some parts.

Does the acetone + ATF mixture remove rust as effectively as soaking in Kroil??

Kroil is good, and I want to try the acetone/ATF combo at some point too. Simple Green and Evapo-Rust are good at surface rust removal and are readily available at Home Depot and similar stores. I’ve used them on vintage vises that I’ve restored and they work well. You do have to let them soak for some time though, so it’s not something that’ll work if you need speed though.
 
I had a Kroil moment this AM. I rounded off the hex setscrew holding the breechface in my SVI slide (yes, you read that correctly - this slide has interchangeable breechfaces) trying to remove it. This setscrew is reached from the rear of the firing pin channel and has a center hole for the firing pin. I have't had this out in ages and it was stuck. When screwed in parts are vibrated they sometimes loosen up and sometime seem to self-tighten. This was the later.

I Kroiled it for an hour or so, then used a hex wrench. I was able to a grip on the socket with and it came out with minor persuasion. The hex socket was rounded, so I replaced the setscrew. The lesson is that if something appears stuck, STOP and go to penetrating oil before you do any damage.

You can see the screw in the back of this image.

1599955421566.png
 
I had a Kroil moment this AM. I rounded off the hex setscrew holding the breechface in my SVI slide (yes, you read that correctly - this slide has interchangeable breechfaces) trying to remove it. This setscrew is reached from the rear of the firing pin channel and has a center hole for the firing pin. I have't had this out in ages and it was stuck. When screwed in parts are vibrated they sometimes loosen up and sometime seem to self-tighten. This was the later.

I Kroiled it for an hour or so, then used a hex wrench. I was able to a grip on the socket with and it came out with minor persuasion. The hex socket was rounded, so I replaced the setscrew. The lesson is that if something appears stuck, STOP and go to penetrating oil before you do any damage.

You can see the screw in the back of this image.

View attachment 389389
Also theres some hot dirty gas getting back in there a bit.
 
thats not rusty...
I had cleaned up the threads of the screw so it looks better than it was.
This morning I tried to free it after sitting overnight, knowing it was too soon or thinking the mix wouldn't work. It friggin' worked and wasn't too hard to break free. Never again am I buying PB Blaster or other penetraiting oils. This is the real deal. I have been soaking this thing in PB Blaster for 2 months straight. Built a rig to hold the tube so i could turn the screw. Hit it with heat and hammers. Had a big armed neighbor try to manhandled the thing. I am embarrassed that it was so easy and quick. +1 to all that advised of this mix.20200913_113701.jpg20200913_113711.jpg
 
I had cleaned up the threads of the screw so it looks better than it was.
This morning I tried to free it after sitting overnight, knowing it was too soon or thinking the mix wouldn't work. It friggin' worked and wasn't too hard to break free. Never again am I buying PB Blaster or other penetraiting oils. This is the real deal. I have been soaking this thing in PB Blaster for 2 months straight. Built a rig to hold the tube so i could turn the screw. Hit it with heat and hammers. Had a big armed neighbor try to manhandled the thing. I am embarrassed that it was so easy and quick. +1 to all that advised of this mix.View attachment 389480View attachment 389481
Now clean it with the brush wheel on the grinder and never-seize it.
 
Does it matter if one uses synthetic or natural ATF in the 50/50 mix?
Does acetone dissolve synthetic ATF and will it increase lubricant’s liquidity ?
Will ATF molecules be deposited into small crevices intact before acetone evaporates ?
I haven’t tried.
 
I had cleaned up the threads of the screw so it looks better than it was.
This morning I tried to free it after sitting overnight, knowing it was too soon or thinking the mix wouldn't work. It friggin' worked and wasn't too hard to break free. Never again am I buying PB Blaster or other penetraiting oils. This is the real deal. I have been soaking this thing in PB Blaster for 2 months straight. Built a rig to hold the tube so i could turn the screw. Hit it with heat and hammers. Had a big armed neighbor try to manhandled the thing. I am embarrassed that it was so easy and quick. +1 to all that advised of this mix.View attachment 389480View attachment 389481
Firm believer most penetrating oils are nothing more than Psychological Support. Heat and Bees wax had done wonders for me, kroil does well.
Does it matter if one uses synthetic or natural ATF in the 50/50 mix?
You need to hunt down transfluid from days gone by that contain Whale Oils.
 
Good job OP. Definitely use never-seize on it. I would go so far as to rig up some rubber boots to cover each of those areas that cause trouble. Might help keep moisture and debris out, but you’d have to remember to pull them up and check/lube the threads periodically.

MMO and Kroil are my go-to’s for stuff like this. I’ve never tried that homemade 50/50 mix though.
 
Definitely use never-seize on it. I would go so far as to rig up some rubber boots to cover each of those areas that cause trouble. Might help keep moisture and debris out, but you’d have to remember to pull them up and check/lube the threads periodically.
Bostik: Grease or Anti-Seize: Know the Difference
-----

FCP Euro: 6 Tips For Effective Use Of Anti-Seize Compound
...​
When not to use anti-seize
While anti-seize can seem like an excellent idea on some stubborn​
fasteners or a shortcut to a proper repair of damaged fasteners,​
you should not use anti-seize in some applications. ... Do not
use anti-seize as a lubricant such as on caliper slide pins or on​
threads for a bushing press or any mechanical assembly that​
requires a lubricant. Do not use anti-seize on exposed threads
because the compound can attract contaminants that may contribute
to thread damage when the fastener is removed.​

I'm sure that @Artie is relieved that the damned jackscrew is moving again,
but maybe he should find out what the manufacturer specifies, and use that.

(Maybe @Artie should also pray that the corrosion isn't more than skin-deep,
and that the jack won't snap off like a breadstick some windy night,
and rip through the floor of the trailer, or dump it on its side).
 
Back
Top Bottom