Knife Forum on NES?

allen-1

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That depends. Do you write for the Tab? Any one see this nonsense yet?

North East Stabbers?

I have been putting a flashlight and a folding knife in my pants pocket every morning for longer than I can remember. Probably since I was a boy scout in my early teens.
knife, flashlight, gun, wallet & truck keys if I'm leaving the house.

Sitting at my desk right now, the only thing in my pockets is my Benchmade Stryker 910.
It's a discontinued model, Tanto blade with serrations that I've been carrying for about 10 years.
 

enbloc

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Hey, maybe we can get Derek or sHORTY to use a tiny K-bar as the sub-forum icon?:rolleyes:
 

enbloc

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SpaceCritter. The photo you posted of the Filipino Moro has me a little captivated by its design and use. What do you know about your particular piece?
The personalization of each piece is very unique by region, bladesmith and rank in each village. Each bend, curve and accent represents something special to the Filipino People.
That makes each authentic kris a treasure.

I found some info online and will link below.



Maguindanao Kris Sword – Maguindanao means “people of the flooded plains.” Maguindanao is in central Mindanao. It is bounded on the north by Lanao Del Sur, on the east by North Cotabato, on the west by the Moro Gulf, and on the south by Sultan Kudarat. The Spaniards launched expeditions to subdue the area throughout the colonial era but they never gained control of the middle of the 19th century due to the Rebellion of the people in this area and the skillful use of the Maguindanao Kris .

Notice each Kris has a different look. Some have more waves than the other. The Kris has a double edge to double the pain, and do a dual job that single edge sword can’t do.
Maguindanao Kris Sword | Traditional Filipino Weapons
 
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45collector

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^ I think I still have a mini Kukri somewhere. I don't know. I have a duffel bag full of random knives/ weaponry somewhere that I haven't touched in years. Some of the stuff that was in there I sold off at gun shows/ flea markets. Now I'm excited to go find it tonight after work and see what's in there. Haha.
Actually the last time I went into that duffel was probably the same day I fished out the brass knuckles and the 11" switchblade for this avatar photo!
<------
 

ILikeGlocks

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Funny that you should post a link back to TFW, since both of those blades were IIRC gifts from Ron for giving him a hand with some stuff! That particular sword is one of the first he sold when he started the blades business.
So you studied FMA? Cool, I did a LONG time ago (early to mid 90's), but it wasn't strictly FMA (mix of Kali, Silat, Kuntao and kempo).
 

SpaceCritter

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So you studied FMA? Cool, I did a LONG time ago (early to mid 90's), but it wasn't strictly FMA (mix of Kali, Silat, Kuntao and kempo).
I'm pretty much Kuntao exclusively now, for a few reasons, but even managed to slide away from that. A few weeks ago, I decided it was time to show my face again at class, so I went in on a Saturday morning. Since I'd been a gym regular and riding the bike, I got cocky and figured I could just jump back in. Full speed into a kicking drill... and did nasty things to left hamstring and calf. [shocked][angry]

Recovering, with plenty of stretching (which I'll admit I hadn't been doing anywhere near enough). Maybe I'll head back in on Saturday. Slowly, this time. [grin]
 

enbloc

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Dry hone or wet? Water or oil?

I was talking to a gentleman in is mid-70's today who told me he was a barber for decades and that he used to sharpen all his straight-razors with an Arkansas stone and finish with a leather strop to give his customers the best shave. I asked him if he lubed his stone with water or oil, and if oil; what did he use. He said he didn't like oil because once used, you could never go back and he liked to be able to flush out the pores of his stones with fresh water. He then gave me a tip, that I'm passing on to you. Before he would sharpen that straight-razor up he would dispense a little of the warmed shaving cream onto the stone and work a little into the pores. He said that it worked better than water alone because it had better lubricating properties, cleaned easily out of the stone, and was slightly antiseptic. (hygiene being critical to a shaving razor)

I have a couple of fresh stones that I'm gonna try a little barbasol on and let you know how it worked.
 

Golddiggie

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IMO, you could use acetone to remove any oil trace from inside a stone. Let it dry, then bake it in the oven (I wouldn't go over 300F, 200-250F would probably work too) for a couple/few hours to 'bake off' any remaining oil. Similar to what you do to gun parts before you Cerakote them. :D
 

greencobra

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i use a spyderco tri angle sharpmaker. i've had it for years. there use to be a school of thought that one could hone on a piece of brown paper bag or a piece of denim cloth material. i've tried the bag method but can't say for sure if it ever worked. i do suck at putting an edge on a blade but getting better. i don't make it my life work to try and learn properly which is why i took to the the sharpmaker. just hold the blade on a vertical plain and we're good to go. they only give you 2 angles to work with so it's cobra proof. lol
 

enbloc

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IMO, you could use acetone to remove any oil trace from inside a stone. Let it dry, then bake it in the oven (I wouldn't go over 300F, 200-250F would probably work too) for a couple/few hours to 'bake off' any remaining oil. Similar to what you do to gun parts before you Cerakote them. :D
I think that would get the oil out enough for my needs, but I'm always going to keep a couple of oil-only stones.
I use those on the high-carbon steel blades that are prone to discolor when they come in contact with water.

What edge finishing do you use on your forged blades?

Thanks.
~Matt
 

Golddiggie

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I have one of the Lansky clamp-on (five stone) sharpening kits. Before that, I had the three stone kit. I also bought an electric sharpener (large white unit with three stages on it) a while back that I left at my mother's place. Since I only sharpen my blades extremely infrequently (I use a steel regularly), it's NBD for me. Mom, on the other hand, doesn't so her blades need to be sharpened more. Since I got her to use wood (or even bamboo) boards more, her knives are fairing better.

I MIGHT need to run the kit over one or two of my blades. This will be the first time for one of them since I bought it in 2001. High quality steel, and treating it RIGHT goes a LONG way in keeping them sharp.
 
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this could be a good idea, be interesting for sure. the only knives I use and carry daily are spydercos but would enjoy the alpha males screaming the only pocket folder worth a damn is a sebenza.
Spyderco are my favorites as well. Nothing will wear a hole in your pocket quicker than a large Sebenza. The voice of experience...
 

Golddiggie

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I think that would get the oil out enough for my needs, but I'm always going to keep a couple of oil-only stones.
I use those on the high-carbon steel blades that are prone to discolor when they come in contact with water.

What edge finishing do you use on your forged blades?

Thanks.
~Matt
If you're talking about getting the final sharp on them, in the past I used the clamp on kit I mentioned. You can get damned close to that point with the belt sander. Actually, there are people that get to their blades pretty much razor sharp with the belts, and use stones as a final 'touch-up' of the edge. You just need to be careful how you use the belts to ensure you don't get the edge too hot and ruin the temper.

I'm sure I'll develop a good method within a couple of blades. I'm already leaning towards getting as close to final edge as possible with the sanding belts. IIRC, I have some north of 800 grit on hand.
 

enbloc

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I think the blade sharpening and finishing is equally interesting to me as the forging is.
All I've ever done was general-purpose sharpening and have gotten good enough at maintaining a working edge on all kinds of edged tools and blades.
What you'll be doing is on a whole 'nuther level.
 

Golddiggie

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Yup... This is another level beyond what I was doing before (about 18-22 years back) when I was just doing stock removal to make blades. I'm looking forward to learning how to get the blades closer to actual final shape with forging. Being able to do my own heat treat is also a very good thing. No more sending it out and waiting weeks for it to come back. I have my Cerakote cure oven to use for the tempering process.

I also kept all my old buffing wheels from before. Some of them had never even been used. Plus I have buffing compound that should still be good (will know when I go to use it).

BTW, if you want to come up to check out the setup sometime, let me know (send a PM).
 

45collector

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I use one of those cheap plastic jobs that you just run across the blade edge several times. It gets my pocket knives sharp, albeit a kinda rough, jagged sharp. Whatever. I mostly carry inexpensive Kershaws nowadays because I would constantly lose knives to absentmindedness/ theft. The last knife I bought was this Kershaw for like $25 shipped from Fleabay...
 

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enbloc

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Yup... This is another level beyond what I was doing before (about 18-22 years back) when I was just doing stock removal to make blades. I'm looking forward to learning how to get the blades closer to actual final shape with forging. Being able to do my own heat treat is also a very good thing. No more sending it out and waiting weeks for it to come back. I have my Cerakote cure oven to use for the tempering process.

I also kept all my old buffing wheels from before. Some of them had never even been used. Plus I have buffing compound that should still be good (will know when I go to use it).

BTW, if you want to come up to check out the setup sometime, let me know (send a PM).
You got it!
 
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Dry hone or wet? Water or oil?
I have used a bunch of different sharpening devices. The cheap handheld plastic sharpeners you pull over the blade, a Spyderco sharpening rod set, a fancy electric sharpening machine (chef brand something or other). Lately I have been using these japanese "wetstones."

I cook a lot and use them mostly for my chefs knife and other kitchen knives, but I have also started using them for my pocket knives too (I say knives but I really only carry the one knife these days, a CRKT Drifter, the other ones just sit there being all sharp and pretty and stuff). These suckers put a serious edge on a blade man. I use a 1000 grit and 6000 grit stones. The 1000 grit is supposed to be soaked in water for 15-20 minutes before being used. The 6000 is just lubricated by dripping water over the top as it is used. Start with the 1000 and move on to the 6000 to really fine tune the edge and get it razor sharp.
Sometimes I use a honing steel after all that but Im not actually sure if thats necessary right after sharpening. I do use the steel every so often to "touch up" my knives in between sharpening (its not taking anything off the blade it just re-aligns the edge so its straighter/sharper).
This process has produced some seriously sharp knives without taking lots of metal off like the electric sharpener does. Pretty impressed with it! Plus you can kind of zen out and relax with the whole wax on, wax off kind of movements when you're sharpening ;)
 

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enbloc

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That looks like an excellent setup scyllint. Do you ever strop an edge to finish?
 
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