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kind of dissapointed in the durability of cerakote

fox2boost

fox2boost

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I just did the bake on cerakote magpul od green on the slide of my glock 27. I guess i just had unrealistic expectations. I remember reading it was something like 400 times more rugged then bluing. So for all my needs i thought this coating would hold up for years with out failing. Well fast forward 3 wks and in and out of my iwb kydex holster everyday the end of the muzzle is showing a spot were it is wearing through to the base metal. The coating still looks amazing everywhere it isnt wearing on the holster.

Before someone tells me i did not apply it correctly i did my homework and have access to a industrial paint booth and oven. I also aluminum oxided all parts and then soaked in acetone and prebaked per nic industries instructions. gun was cured at 175 degrees for 2 hours. Hvlp gun was a binks cub with a 1.0 nozzle.

Is there a better coating out there or are my expectations unattainable.
 
No experience with cerakote but if that wasn't good enough look no further than this stuff [smile][wink]
I heard it's bulletproof too

product_group5_truckBed.jpg
 
After the coating are you allowed to clear it as if it were a car, slide doesnt get that hot, or like the clear bra on new cars? Like a screen protector?
 
familyman15 said:
After the coating are you allowed to clear it as if it were a car, slide doesnt get that hot, or like the clear bra on new cars? Like a screen protector?
Click to expand...


not that im aware of. Doing it again i would also not spray the inside of the slide. first trip to the range and all the coating on the rails was coming off in the gun.
 
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You can use a heat gun to soften the plastic up a little and push it out as well.

Wrap a band aid or some electric tape around the wear area, and re holster it. Leave it pressed together until it cools.
 
Jewelery box lining fine suede? and do the entire holster both sides were the slide touches but not the trigger guard so it still locks in
 
It's still paint. Durable paint but it's not going to hold up better then treatments like nitriding or tenifer, which penetrate down into the metal below the surface and provide incredible hardness.
 
Metal cure is either 250F for 2 hours or 300F for one hour cure time (time at that temp). 175F for two hours is for plastics. OR, if you're going to stencil and apply more colors (flash cure between applications).

Also, when you blasted, did you use #100-120 grit aluminum oxide media?
 
If you put a gun in a holster, it will wear the finish. A worn gun is a loved gun, not a safe queen.
 
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Golddiggie said:
Metal cure is either 250F for 2 hours or 300F for one hour cure time (time at that temp). 175F for two hours is for plastics. OR, if you're going to stencil and apply more colors (flash cure between applications).

Also, when you blasted, did you use #100-120 grit aluminum oxide media?
Click to expand...

Just have to make sure you paint all of the gun .
 
fox2boost said:
I just did the bake on cerakote magpul od green on the slide of my glock 27. I guess i just had unrealistic expectations. I remember reading it was something like 400 times more rugged then bluing. So for all my needs i thought this coating would hold up for years with out failing. Well fast forward 3 wks and in and out of my iwb kydex holster everyday the end of the muzzle is showing a spot were it is wearing through to the base metal. The coating still looks amazing everywhere it isnt wearing on the holster.

Before someone tells me i did not apply it correctly i did my homework and have access to a industrial paint booth and oven. I also aluminum oxided all parts and then soaked in acetone and prebaked per nic industries instructions. gun was cured at 175 degrees for 2 hours. Hvlp gun was a binks cub with a 1.0 nozzle.

Is there a better coating out there or are my expectations unattainable.
Click to expand...

Actually, you cured at the wrong temp for metal. Check the instructions again. Cerakote should not be wearing off a slide that quickly.

Edit: Goldiggie beat me to it, and has the right temps.
 
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I used 100 grit Alum oxide and the reason I only cured the slide at 180 is because I did not want to damage the neoprene sleeve in the striker channel.
 
Get a leather holster maybe idk where you are but zero hour in Easton has the comfiest holster for my 42 and it was 25 bucks.
 
fox2boost said:
I used 100 grit Alum oxide and the reason I only cured the slide at 180 is because I did not want to damage the neoprene sleeve in the striker channel.
Click to expand...

If you can't remove it, that would be yet another reason why I'll NOT get a glock... You can strip a Ruger pistol down to just metal parts easily. 1911's (the ones I have) don't have any neoprene parts inside the slide (or anything plastic that's not easy to remove).

I don't remember (exactly) if I've applied Cerakote to a grock slide. If I did, it's been a while, so the details are fuzzy. IF I did, and I saw the plastic in there, I probably baked at 250F for at least 2 hours. IMO, if the part inside a slide can't handle 250-300F for the cure time, then that's a major flaw in the firearm.
 
Or you could go the non heat cure route. Oddly the non-heat cure holds up to higher temperatures than the heat cure. I made the mistake of ordering the heat cure and I have no oven!! Damnit all drunk internet shopping!
Don't feel too bad my GA Precision rifle is cerakoted and it's coming off the bolt (as it should) and I have some cute little dings on the side of the receiver from a buckle in my gun bag.
 
Golddiggie said:
If you can't remove it, that would be yet another reason why I'll NOT get a glock... You can strip a Ruger pistol down to just metal parts easily. 1911's (the ones I have) don't have any neoprene parts inside the slide (or anything plastic that's not easy to remove).

I don't remember (exactly) if I've applied Cerakote to a grock slide. If I did, it's been a while, so the details are fuzzy. IF I did, and I saw the plastic in there, I probably baked at 250F for at least 2 hours. IMO, if the part inside a slide can't handle 250-300F for the cure time, then that's a major flaw in the firearm.
Click to expand...

The place that cerakoted my G27 slide, Northeast Arms in Peabody, replaced the striker channel liner. I think it cost like $2 for the liner.
 

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