It's a good night to start a build.

Garys

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Assembly.jpg

Assorted parts for an AR 15. A true Frankengun, as I bought most of the parts through the classifieds here, a few from AR15.com, and even a few from stores.

The lower is a York Arms Conspirator, the Upper a Matrix Aero, the BCG Spikes, the barrel is a no name.

One question. Can anyone tell me how much of the bayonet lug has to be taken off to make it MA compliant?
 
I've heard that as long as it can't hold a bayo (no ears) than it's OK, but I hack off the whole thing since the remaining stub is useless anyway.
 
Dremel, Die grinder, Sawzall, nail file, metal file. Anything will do. Sharpie would be fine refinish for a Frankengun.
 
Dremel, Die grinder, Sawzall, nail file, metal file. Anything will do. Sharpie would be fine refinish for a Frankengun.

Hack saw with fresh blade and bench grinder to carefully clean up the cuts. I found some Krylon Camo paint at Advance Auto that is a very close match.

I'll get to the paint later this week, I hope.

Edit: Some pictures of what I've done so far,

ARLower-13_zps771e6bce.jpg


ARUpper_zps09b9055e.jpg


And the bayonet hack,

Bayohack2_zps3f429a28.jpg


Bayohack1_zps61c2fea1.jpg
 
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Looking good so far.

Thanks. I'd have the butt stock on except I don't have the screw for some reason. 1/4-28 in a counter sunk head isn't that easy to find. I'd rather not order one because the shipping would be silly. Off to a real hardware store tomorrow or Monday.
 
I don't have any stock set ups like that, otherwise I might have had a spare I would give you.

All of my stocks are Magpul CTR stocks.
 
Thanks, I appreciate that.

1/4-28 is a fairly standard thread, so I shouldn't have much trouble finding it. I was at Lowes for some other stuff and looked, but they don't have any in that size. Ace usually has a good selection of hardware, so I'll swing by Monday.

I also have to find a sling swivel for the gas block. A few little pieces here and there that I still need to get.




I don't have any stock set ups like that, otherwise I might have had a spare I would give you.

All of my stocks are Magpul CTR stocks.
 
I just had a sling swivel that I gave to my buddy while out in Michigan last week. You're like 1 week too late. [laugh]

Let me know if you need any small parts or something. I MIGHT have something you need. Besides the sling swivel and screw of course. [laugh]
 
The story of my life. Apparently the butt stock screw is not just a butt stock screw, but has a hole drilled the length of it so that water and air aren't trapped in it. Which means that now I'll need a screw, sling swivel, and sling swivel rivet. Off to Brownells.com!


I just had a sling swivel that I gave to my buddy while out in Michigan last week. You're like 1 week too late. [laugh]

Let me know if you need any small parts or something. I MIGHT have something you need. Besides the sling swivel and screw of course. [laugh]
 
The story of my life. Apparently the butt stock screw is not just a butt stock screw, but has a hole drilled the length of it so that water and air aren't trapped in it. Which means that now I'll need a screw, sling swivel, and sling swivel rivet. Off to Brownells.com!

Are you sure about that?
The one in my ace kit isn't like that.
 
Are you sure about that?
The one in my ace kit isn't like that.

Going by what this says. He does say that it's unlikely that a solid bolt would effect performance.

I might hold off on ordering for a few days. The Holbrook club is sponsoring a show next weekend and there might be a parts guy there.
 
The hole is there for a reason. It vents the tube so that the buffer does not have to compress the air in the tube when cycling. Some manufacturers, magpul for example, warn specifically against using a non vented bolt.
 
The hole is there for a reason. It vents the tube so that the buffer does not have to compress the air in the tube when cycling. Some manufacturers, magpul for example, warn specifically against using a non vented bolt.

Yep, that's what I discovered in my reading. This is an interesting way to build a rifle as I'm learning a whole lot more about how it's built and why things are done the way they are.
 
Three coats of Krylon Ultra Flat Camo paint later, and it looks OK. Now I can continue the build, which won't happen until early next month. At least the paint will have plenty of time to dry and harden.

sightpainted1_zps6fe0c7a1.jpg


sightpainted2_zps382aaa6d.jpg


The only thing that I'll probably have to take to a gunsmith for is pinning or welding the compensator or brake on when I get closer to the finish.
 
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