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Is there a torque spec when tightening an optic?

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The last few times to the range my red dot has loosened up on me while shooting. I keep tightening it up a little more every time but I want to make sure that I don't over tighten it.

Is there a torque spec on when tightening optics down to picatinny rail?
 
if its getting loose you are nowhere near overtightening it, try another quarter or half turn lol....

ETA: depending on how cheap the mount is that could be a big issue, too....

-Mike
 
Turn it till its tight then give it another 1/8 turn. If it's still loosens up give it a drop of Loctite.

Edit I'm not a gunsmith I'm a contractor. So take what I say with a grain of salt.
 
torque on the rails less important but for scope rings I always use a torque wrench typically to 20 or 24 inch lbs. most scopes are 6061 aluminum housing. you can really dick up an optic by overtightening the rings.
 
its a pretty cheap mount on a pretty cheap red dot!

Think about taking the money you saved on them and investing in a torque limiting screw driver (aka torque screwdriver), so that when the time comes that you are working on an expensive optic or mount you can be confident you are meeting specs.

I have three of them (yeah I know, don't ask me why)
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05074715001-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Adjustable/dp/B003KN3GAU/
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05074715001-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Adjustable/dp/B003KN3GAK/
Husky 1/4 in. Hex Inch Torque Screw Driver-H4DTRQ - The Home Depot

Wera is a German company (made in China) and they are very nice.
The Husky one works just fine, at the time I got it was on sale and I had a gift card.

:emoji_tiger:

P.S.> For anyone that is interested in the Wera brand drivers make sure you are looking at the "variable" models, not "pre-set" unless you are doing production.
 
If the screws are loosening then use some loctite as others have said. The screws in the bases should also be installed with loctite. If the red dot sight is moving in the rings, thats a different issue. The rings may need to be lapped. This is probably more important if the rings are not top quality rings. Lapping is easy and fast. It allows the entire surface of the ring to grip the scope. This allows the scope to maintain it's position without over tightening.
 
I use a FAT wrench and Vibra-Tite VC3 on everything optics related (even when they say you don’t need to). I’ll usually google the manufacturer’s info and use that but overall just torque until nice and tight but not too tight and rely on thread locker.
 
A Picatinny mount will never stay tight on a Weaver rail... Just saying
hog wash BUT you might have a hard time getting a tru mil std pic mount to fit in the narrow weaver rail grooves/slots if it has the slots across it and your ring or mount has the "recoil" lug that fits the rail slots.
Mil Std Pic rail is something like .200" wide and evenly spaced vs the weaver .175" wide and often only has a few "Slots" not always evenly spaced = sizes going on memory

now if your mounting a rail weaver rail with no recoil slots or rings with out any recoil lugs you can/will have issues with scope ring movement. once things start to move they will come loose.


I would not be surprised today if most manufactures just slap what ever label they want pic or weaver and just machine to the larger side of specs.

with less expensive rings/mounts they will often come with round or the thinner "recoil" cross pin to fit both.

As for torque , growing up my dad said for those thumb screws, well thumb screw tight grab it with your thumb and index finger and tighten it. Then apply the same thought for the other scope/mount/ring gun screws.

A torque wrench will do better preventing over tightening than under tightening.

Also if you use Loctite and it does not seem to work 2 things going on. You have oil in and on the threads/holes and also lots of metals need their primer to get a very good hold. I prefer 222 Loctite on any small gun screw IF I use it at all. Even liquid Teflon will help hold screws tight.

Also the quality of the threads will play a big roll, if the hole or screw is "loosely" machined it may never stay tight.
 
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if its getting loose you are nowhere near overtightening it, try another quarter or half turn lol....

ETA: depending on how cheap the mount is that could be a big issue, too....

-Mike
this is not always the case. If your mount/rings/optics are not evenly tight and seat square if it gets a chance to move it will come loose. Also if you keep clamping down tighter and tighter you might just be squishing the metal back ...
 
Take it apart. CLEAN the threads. Then use blue loctite, sparingly. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern, snugging them up evenly. That is, don't tighten one down fully, then another - you'll cock the scope/dot that way.
 
torque on the rails less important but for scope rings I always use a torque wrench typically to 20 or 24 inch lbs. most scopes are 6061 aluminum housing. you can really dick up an optic by overtightening the rings.

This...I use 20 in lbs. on all scope rings and never had an issue. I don't Loctite them but I also don't shoot anything bigger than a 30/06.
 
I got 2 T-handle pre set torque wrenches from Seekonk Precision Tools. One for the rings,and one for the base. Quality mounts have torque specs,cheap mounts I would just use blue Loctite since it will probably strip before its secure.
 
Its the Bushnell TRS25 HiRise, I think it was 40 bucks on amazon. I cant tell if its my eyes or the red dot thats fuzzy!
I just moved my TRS25 w/mount from one rifle to another, and it wouldn't seat properly on the pic rail. The cross bolt was bent a bit, preventing the clamping piece from seating fully.

When mounting it on the pic rail, I maintain some forward pressure on the device while I cinch it down, so there's less chance of recoil disturbing it.
 
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