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Iron Glock

You ought to stop by "Weapon Guild"—a Forum completely dedicated to home manufactured Firearms.

Weapons guild has some crazy ass builds but they still don't come close to Boris .


wow, just joined and spent a 1/2 hour at weapons guild.
place is crazy, there will be lots of help there for finishing my sten build, and now i think i need to start looking more seriously for an FAL kit when the gun shows start again next month
 
wow, just joined and spent a 1/2 hour at weapons guild.
place is crazy

The only thing that sucks about there site is you need to get a bunch of post under to see all of the site and pm higher ranking members .

Some of the home made builds are out of the world . Like ground up builds when they make every thing .

Some of the odder builds are when the combine parts from guns and make some thing new .
 
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I have to get my post count up to post a pic, at least that's what I guess. I have one I'm working on. It's really not that hard to build even without the jigs. I want to thank Boris for all the help he's given me through pm's.
 
I have to get my post count up to post a pic, at least that's what I guess. I have one I'm working on. It's really not that hard to build even without the jigs. I want to thank Boris for all the help he's given me through pm's.

Thank you for your feedback that hopefully filled in some of the missing pieces to the benefit of others! If you have trouble with posting photos at the moment, PM me the links and I'll post them.
 
Put all the guts in mine finally, she runs pretty damn good. I love how this is one of those "I have nothing better to do today so i am going to build a firearm" builds that can be built with minimal tooling. great stuff
Nice! How was it fitting it into that airsoft frame? I used the élcheapo one, it would've been fine but because my mag angle was a few degrees off it sticks up a little in the back. And I had to add material to use the trigger safety. How much did the airsoft frame cost? I like the look of that one it doesn't look cheap. Once I get some more money up I want to do another one with a better frame.
 
Nice! How was it fitting it into that airsoft frame? I used the élcheapo one, it would've been fine but because my mag angle was a few degrees off it sticks up a little in the back. And I had to add material to use the trigger safety. How much did the airsoft frame cost? I like the look of that one it doesn't look cheap. Once I get some more money up I want to do another one with a better frame.

I used this guy.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007KQ3C02/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit It worked good save for the fact that you have to grind it paper thin to get the frame in it. I wanted to have it be as thin as possible to try and maintain the feel of the gun, but this may have been to much. Not a huge deal, but I had to cut out the section where the web of your hand goes and then fill it with plastic weld.
 
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I used this guy.http:// http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007KQ3C02/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit It worked good save for the fact that you have to grind it paper thin to get the frame in it. I wanted to have it be as thin as possible to try and maintain the feel of the gun, but this may have been to much. Not a huge deal, but I had to cut out the section where the web of your hand goes and then fill it with plastic weld.

dude, your link doesnt work. you need to remove on of the http:// from it.
 
I used this guy.CYMA Airsoft Spring Gun Pistol ZM17:Amazon:Sports & Outdoors It worked good save for the fact that you have to grind it paper thin to get the frame in it. I wanted to have it be as thin as possible to try and maintain the feel of the gun, but this may have been to much. Not a huge deal, but I had to cut out the section where the web of your hand goes and then fill it with plastic weld.
Yeah I had some burn through with the dremel in a couple areas. The next one I do I'm thinking about cutting the mid peice as short as possible, and chamfering the edges so I don't have to take so much out of the grip. How's the cyma look though? Does the plastic look better than the hfc?
 
It is a bit better, because it is much more "drop in friendly" the one i got had to be brought down so thin it was almost unusable, the re create it with plastic weld. I am one of those people who hates the feel of the gun because of the way it points. these lowers don't do that and i wanted to retain that aspect. i was afraid the larger frame would alter that so i went with the thinnest airsoft i could find
 
Yeah the hfc is a little thick, if I didn't mess up I wouldn't have burned through, I had to take away some material to reach the slide lock and to use the slide stop. but being a lefty I just ordered a bigger slide lock and slide stop. Both are hard to use in the hfc frame.
 
I've been on NES many times in the past as the result of searches, but after seeing this I had to register so I can say, Boris your creativity and methodical approach to creating an amazingly simple Glock frame substitute deserves recognition! I started thinking about a frame substitute awhile back along slightly different lines but using the same sheet metal and weld construction, but you've actually done it...and you did it the way genius does it...you pared the frame down into four inexpensive sub-components that weld together to create a truly practical, durable, and strong replacement Glock frame that has me now sitting here reluctant to ever purchase a "store bought" Glock ever again! Forget for a moment that crafting a frame is a nice, legal way to avoid having one's name on some future roster, what your frame brings to the game is a way to remake the Glock into something that can last several lifetimes and be "renewed" as needed. Even those who care not about working off the grid, building one of your frame designs as a replacement makes a lot of sense...and there is so much more that can be done to finish it out besides dropping it into an airsoft housing!
I kind of like the idea of adding a dust cover to the front to enclose the recoil spring, and crafting a sheet steel back strap for the grip to enclose and shape it. The back strap might even be make to attach with small screws or pins to make it possible to change out for different hands or new ideas.
I noticed in your photos that you show drilling the pin holes prior to welding, yet in some photos it looks like you've welded first. I saw your "jig" for spacing the pieces for welding and wondered if you have considered locating the block hole first, welding the pieces together, then locating the rear pin hole off the front using your jig method? Several years back I machined out a bunch of Sig P228 80% frames and came up with a jig by pasting a print of the dimensions on a thick section of aluminum plate which I then drilled in a press. This allowed me to validate hole position by situating the trigger and hammer parts on their pins, on the jig plate, then using the jig plate, clamped to the frame to drill them. While your approach is a lot less machine intensive (which I applaud whole-heartedly), I was wondering about cobbling up a jig that indexes off the frame rail datum line that would place the rear pin hole very precisely in both the x and y plane. Overall I really like the way you've created simple fixtures to provide uniform replication. If there isn't a "run" on the parts kits to put your frame design together there should be.

I measured my G20SF and discovered the frame rail width is identical - front rail length also identical, but of course total distance from the slide lock to the rear of trigger housing is about 10mm or so longer. I would imagine the magazine well is also dimensionally larger as well. Do you have plans to adapt your design to the 20/21 frame size?
 
My mind is blown reading this. I don't know how you are able to not only visualize these projects but bring them to completion and make the descriptions entertaining at the same time. Thanks for sharing these builds Boris.
 
Awesome as usual Boris. I know you loathe ARs but how about one made of steel?

been done before

File:AR-18.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

AR-18.jpg



people will complain that they don't have a welder to join stamped parts together, so it's easier to dremel solid Ali. People will complain no matter what you do.
 
Outstanding series on YouTube broken down over 20 clips titled: "30 minute Glock, part 1 (-20)." The video series begins with unpacking the raw materials and culminates with the final product being fired.
While the poster isn't named Boris, the person in the video is performing all the tasks with the swift surety of someone who has built more than a few frames so I suspect it is Boris.
Altogether and excellent builder's guide that makes the entire process considerably less daunting.
 
Just finished building the Snapdragon kit in 9mm. Finished in with the steel grip and trigger guard while awaiting the arrival of a Guarder frame. Made a backstrap from 3/4" square tube which makes it fit the hand very well.
Welding was done using my Henrob OA setup. I deviated from the examples by welding the frame together first then fitting the barrel block tight into the pocket formed by the front piece and grip, then drilling the hole. Took it out today and ran one G19 and two G17 mags through it, checking for warping, bending, binding, weld cracks, and malfunctions. The pistol shot 50 rounds without a single hitch! The welds look perfect, the frame tabs (rails) are solid, and the gun cycles freely. I'd say my first frame build is a success.
For those who wonder about durability only time and rounds will tell the tale, but unless a weld fails I suspect this thing will be good for a substantial number of rounds.
My original intention was to house the steel inside an Airsoft grip housing, but I really LIKE the grip and general handling characteristics of the steel grip with a backstrap attached that blends into the trigger group housing. I plan to weld some 3/4" square tube to the frame front to create a dust cover, and I plan to enclose the trigger housing with a thin sheet of steel. Even though I built the G19 size I'm planning to chop the grip to G26 length - the supplied length was too short and the wrong angle anyway, and grip length has more bearing on CC than 1/2" of slide.
I'll end up Duracoating the final form.
 
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