Interesting Bluing Result

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Mar 31, 2009
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Hingham, MA
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I recently stripped and polished a beat up old S&W M36. It spent 50 years at the bottom of a purse rolling around with spare change. The gun functioned well, but looked like crap. This is not my first bluing job (5th or 6th) but the blue would not set. I believe it was due to a high carbon content steel, but I could be wrong. I love the way it looks and so far it seems to hold up well.[grin]
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Let me know if you think I should have coughed up the $160 for S&W to do the work? I personally like this better, looks more authentic.
 
As long as you just want to keep it as a beater, and it won't rust, I'd be happy with that puppy!

I have a nickel model 36 I've had for years. Some of the nickel has started to discolor, (I believe that's from solvent not being wiped off sufficiently) and I was thinking of having it NP3'd or re-nickeled if possible. Then I thought: It's a reliable beater. Why waste the money only to have it marked up again because I know I'll be carrying it again!
 
That looks pretty cool, but that bayo lug is not MA compliant.

I am actually just getting ready to do my first re-blue. What did you use?
 
Was this cold blue? I found that using very hot water with the blueing solution made for much better (i.e. darker) results. Looks good overall though.
 
Ive found rust bluing to be the best it attacks everything and leaves a nice blue / black finish .Its a little more work but the results are worth it.
 
If I was going for a nice deep, rich blue and got that, I'd be mad. If I was going for a consistent finish that looks nice and will protect the gun, that'd do. Looks like a nice, worn, well loved gun.
 
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