Info on recurve bows needed...

[WSCJonathan]

I spent this awesome sunny day shooting bows all afternoon and now I'm hooked. I started with a crossbow which was fun, but pretty easy once I got the hang of it. Then I shot a compound bow for couple hours, had a blast and now want to pick up a bow of my own. The compound was more challenging than the crossbow but it was still relatively easy once we had it all sighted in. It reminded me a lot of a jump shot, the second you release you can tell if it was a good shot or not. By the end I was shooting good consistent groups out to 25-30 yards with a stray arrow once out of every four or five.

I'd like to start with a recurve bow since I'm going to start out just target shooting and want it to be challenging. Eventually I'd like to try bow hunting but it wouldn't be till next year or the year after and I think I'd be better off getting a compound bow for it.

Should I get a "starter" recurve and work my way up or spend the money up front the first time? What are the prices of a decent starter bow and a good high end bow? Any recommended brands and brands to avoid? What are some good non-chain stores in Central Mass to check out?

Any info would be appreciated!

Thanks

 

[Climbnsink]

http://www.oldbow.com/ I'd go cheapish (100-200) and low pull 25lbs or so. Give you something to play with, as with most things skies the limit.

 

[Biggy]

Today's compound bows are powerful, efficient killing machines. I shot them for a couple years, then switched over to a recurve. Huge difference. I actually shot the recurve alot more accurete than my compound. Not sure why, but that's just the way it worked out for me. My scores on the 3D shoots went up by 30-40 pts per round. I love my 55lb Bear Kodiak. It's also lighter for carrying around the woods all day. Just be prepared.... next thing you know, you'll be buying cedar shafts and making your own arrows, broadheads and all the rest that goes along with it. You won't be dissappointed.

 

[codenamepaul]

I have a Martin take down recurve at 50# that I love. My son shoots a 55# PSE longbow. He makes cedar arrows and wants to use his stone broadheads. He'll use a carbon arrow and steel broadheads until I feel better about it.

 

[md2020]

Natick Outdoor carries some affordable take down recurves marketed under some other name, but they are made by PSE. Forget the price, but they were under $120. Target bows so poundage isn't very high.

LL Bean sells some as well for reasonable $. I am sure they are made by some larger company for them.

I enjoyed shooting the most when I used a simple one piece bow with turkey fletched cedar arrows. Plain and simple is good. New compound bows now a days are way too high tech and not made for finger shooters.

 

[pupchow]

I've been dialing in my compound bow recently, and setup some 3D targets. After the compound was zero'd, I knocked the dust off an old recurve I was gifted (Darton Ranger Super Flite 40lb 58"), and put 5 of six 6 arrows into the kill zone @ 20-30 yards. Damn, that instinctive archery felt good. I hadn't done much with a recurve since I was a kid (70s), using my old man's Bear take-down. I may need another...

 

[Medicine Man]

I have a 50# Sage take down. I think it was $120 about ten years ago. I can’t count how many smiles I’ve seen when someone lets their first arrow fly from it.
We’re lucky to have arrowwood viburnum growing wild in Massachusetts. Nice straight arrow shafts right from the shrub. Add a few turkey feathers and a stone broadhead and you’re good to go.
Never regretted that purchase.

 

[Marlin1]

Keep in mind that you can buy a riser and limbs separate. Start with 20#or with 25# limbs and work your way up to more powerful limbs for hunting.
Don't limit yourself to a re-curve that you cannot swap out. I'd recommend a take down as other have. But get the right size riser.
Modem risers can receive sights, counter balances etc.