Icom V8000 need help

Audio drops out on receive after various minutes listening. I "reset" by turning it off, then on, and the audio comes right back. All else works OK. Jack. W1FKG.
Stupid question Jack but I have to ask....where is the squelch set?
 
Stupid question Jack but I have to ask....where is the squelch set?
I checked that first. The problem is that it is so damn intermittent. All can be fine for hours, drop out and reset no problem. Or maybe 10 minutes and reset OK. Just been OK for an hour now (I check it by finding a QSO on any repeater or simplex, not by kerchunking repeaters). LOL. Jack. W1FKG.
 
I checked that first. The problem is that it is so damn intermittent. All can be fine for hours, drop out and reset no problem. Or maybe 10 minutes and reset OK. Just been OK for an hour now (I check it by finding a QSO on any repeater or simplex, not by kerchunking repeaters. LOL. Jack.
I wonder if there is something like a cold/intermittent solder joint in the squelch or audio amp circuit. I used to keep a can of freeze spray on my tech bench and hit suspect areas with it. It's amazing how many amps and radios I was able to locate the issues and fix with that can of spray.

When it cuts out, do you still see a received signal on the S meter?

On a hunch, I checked the interwebs and found this: Fixing Intermitent Audio with the Icom ICV-8000

It might help? If I still lived in NH, I'd check it out for you.
 
FWIW, I searched the manual and did not find some kind of
receiver turn-off timer - just a transmitter time-out
on the time scale of a minute or two.

... I checked the interwebs and found this: Fixing Intermitent Audio with the Icom ICV-8000
Sounds promising.

That's IC9 - an LA4425A used as the AF power amp.

(Which DigiKey says is no longer manufactured;
so while it's probably beefier than some cat's whisker
diode, still shouldn't be roasted with a soldering gun).

And because it's Bigger Than The Average Part,
maybe it's easier for it to have cold solder joints.
 
That's IC9 - an LA4425A used as the AF power amp.

(Which DigiKey says is no longer manufactured;
so while it's probably beefier than some cat's whisker
diode, still shouldn't be roasted with a soldering gun).

And because it's Bigger Than The Average Part,
maybe it's easier for it to have cold solder joints.
I'm guessing that it gets pretty hot and heat/cold cycles will weaken solder joints over time, especially when lead free solder is used. Reflow the solder joints on that amp and it may just fix it.
 
I wonder if there is something like a cold/intermittent solder joint in the squelch or audio amp circuit. I used to keep a can of freeze spray on my tech bench and hit suspect areas with it. It's amazing how many amps and radios I was able to locate the issues and fix with that can of spray.

When it cuts out, do you still see a received signal on the S meter?

On a hunch, I checked the interwebs and found this: Fixing Intermitent Audio with the Icom ICV-8000

It might help? If I still lived in NH, I'd check it out for you.
When it cuts out, the display still shows "busy" and the signal strength still shows in the S meter with no change. You are probably right about a poor solder joint. I've done a zillion solder joints, Heathkit TVs, audio tuners and amps, etc. Now I need a break. Know of anyone who could do a house call? For compensation, of course. I'm in Acton, Mass. Jack.
 
When it cuts out, the display still shows "busy" and the signal strength still shows in the S meter with no change. You are probably right about a poor solder joint. I've done a zillion solder joints, Heathkit TVs, audio tuners and amps, etc. Now I need a break. Know of anyone who could do a house call? For compensation, of course. I'm in Acton, Mass. Jack.
Not personally Jack...like I said, if I was still NH, I'd come down in a NY minute. Maybe someone reading this could do it or would know someone that could.
 
Not personally Jack...like I said, if I was still NH, I'd come down in a NY minute. Maybe someone reading this could do it or would know someone that could.
Thanks. My problem is that my back is so bad that I'm still managing the Mill from home. The radio is in my office. The kitchen. All my tools and parts are in the basement. I only do the stairs when I really need to, knowing that my next trip down could be the last if I'm not careful. Coming up the stairs is hell. So, if someone could help me with this I would be glad to compensate them for their time weather the problem gets cured or not. Also, all I have is a 125 and a 250 watt soldering guns. Too big. I remember when the most simple job required 14 trips up and down to get it done. LOL. Jack.
 
Never thought to look at the mic which has squelch up and down buttons. Probably bypasses the pot and circuitry. Will know in time. Jack.
Ah yes, though I have never seen a mic with a squelch knob on it. That radio must be a piece of commercial gear which having a knob there doesn't surprise me.

That's good news Jack...glad you found it! [thumbsup]
 
Ah yes, though I have never seen a mic with a squelch knob on it. That radio must be a piece of commercial gear which having a knob there doesn't surprise me.

That's good news Jack...glad you found it! [thumbsup]
The Icom is the IC-V8000 2M about 20 yrs old. The mic is the HM133V. The up-down squelch buttons are on the bottom right hand corner of mic. Jack.
 
The Icom is the IC-V8000 2M about 20 yrs old. The mic is the HM133V. The up-down squelch buttons are on the bottom right hand corner of mic. Jack.
Unless you're a real operating operator on the Fancy Mic -
able to make the rig stand up and bark without touching the front panel -
or if you really need to control the rig with the mic because
you've moved the rig to an inconvenient shelf(*), then...

...get everything running squared-away and then
use <FUNC><16KEY-L SQLđź”˝#> to lock the mic keypad.

(That is, the two mic keys FUNC and #).

Then you can be sure you're not finger-<bleep>ing the mic keys
in sheer excitement no matter how hot the QSO.

Unfortunately, Mic-Lock is re-disabled when you power cycle the rig,
so if you like Mic-Lock, you'll have to redo it every day.
But if you don't like it, at least it's easy to undo.

Note also that none of the above refers to the front panel SET(LOCK) button,
which locks entirely different stuff and probably won't keep you from
finger-<bleep>ing the squelch via too tight a grip on the mic.

(*) Dear God don't drag the rig off of the shelf
onto the laptop keyboard (or Megan).

Hope this helps.

Here's a larger-than-life clear photo of the mic.

ico-hm-133v_wb_xl.jpg
 
or if you really need to control the rig with the mic because
you've moved the rig to an inconvenient shelf(*)

(*) Dear God don't drag the rig off of the shelf
onto the laptop keyboard (or Megan).
[rofl][laugh2]
 
I've seen Jack's operating position.
But I don't have perfect memory of how everything's set up.

And because it was Megan's bedtime and her cage got wheeled into her bedroom for nitey-nite
about two minutes after I arrived,
I don't understand whether she's normally stomping around uncaged
during the day.

Jack's a big boy, but I want nothing to do with being
the proximate cause of the two most delicate things in the house
getting anviled by the rig body taking a dive off the shelf.

It's all fun and games until someone yanks the mic cord too hard.
 
Back
Top Bottom