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I need a spotting scope

so you saying that electric POS is seeing stuff better than my bad eyes? :)
Well it is but your bad eyes are still going to see the Tablet screen poorly , lol maybe theres a “Cricket” version like the old folks phone with big buttons!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I think I need to clarify what exactly they are mandating the spotting scope for and go from there. I DO want to use this for practicing longer range shooting after the class and for some hunts out west my buddy and I are thinking about doing. I would like something packable for that reason. I think I have been convinced to "buy once and cry once" and spend some $$$ on this optic. I bought a cheap NOD once and wished I had spent another thousand or so and gotten something better, so I know all about "skinflint's remorse."

Also, I tinker with arduino and the like, and it would be cool to make a poor man's ballistic computer where I can put in distance and meteorological conditions and get dope for a specific rifle setup. That would be a cool long-term project.
 
Depends on what you consider "middle of the road price wise". Spotting scopes range from a couple of hundred to over $5K. I consider this a good lower mid priced scope at $750.


Combine it with the Creedmoor Tripod Scope Stand, now on sale for $185, and you have a pretty good setup for under a grand.
Also as far as scope stands and bi pods.
I bought this 10 years ago or so and it took me all but 30 sec to dope slap myself and say “why the f*** did you wait 20 years to get one of these”
Makes for very comfortable scoping in any position
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I think I need to clarify what exactly they are mandating the spotting scope for and go from there. I DO want to use this for practicing longer range shooting after the class and for some hunts out west my buddy and I are thinking about doing. I would like something packable for that reason. I think I have been convinced to "buy once and cry once" and spend some $$$ on this optic. I bought a cheap NOD once and wished I had spent another thousand or so and gotten something better, so I know all about "skinflint's remorse."

Also, I tinker with arduino and the like, and it would be cool to make a poor man's ballistic computer where I can put in distance and meteorological conditions and get dope for a specific rifle setup. That would be a cool long-term project.
Some times you need a few different scopes.
Scopes for tracking animals on the move are going to be smaller and lighter. Some will say just get a good pair if binos for hunting.
 
Some times you need a few different scopes.
Scopes for tracking animals on the move are going to be smaller and lighter. Some will say just get a good pair if binos for hunting.
Good binos will do 90% of the work. If you are counting tines and don't want to waste a three mile hike, you need the scope. My scope rarely comes on a hunt, but I have not hit the open mountains yet, and I don't count tines. It's food, not a trophy.
Don't go lightweight and small on a scope. You want to be in the 85mm range. The extra few ounces is worth it.
 
for practicing longer range shooting after the class and for some hunts out west
read what was said above about 50mm razor. it is light and image is crisp, so it may do both tasks well.
a proper 100mm large scope is not what you would be able to lug around on a hunt, with a tripod.
 
Good binos will do 90% of the work. If you are counting tines and don't want to waste a three mile hike, you need the scope. My scope rarely comes on a hunt, but I have not hit the open mountains yet, and I don't count tines. It's food, not a trophy.
Don't go lightweight and small on a scope. You want to be in the 85mm range. The extra few ounces is worth it.
First, I'm not arguing against an 85mm objective lens scope, except for its added size and weight that you'll need to carry around (roughly 4 lbs for the scope itself. If you need it, it's worth the expense and effort. Just as most hunting rifles are not built like 15+lb bench or tactical guns, many hunters compromise to the best glass they can afford in a smaller form factor. What a small objective lens won't get you (ever) is light-gathering power. Bigger lenses gather more light, and so can be more sensitive (better?) in low light conditions like scoping animals around sunrise/sunset, or in heavily overcast/wooded/shaded environments. No light gathering capability will be useful unless you can make out what you are looking at, so quality of lens is just as important in those situations as it is on the target range. It is technically more (much more) difficult to maintain high quality in a larger lens. Typically, in terms of quality/clarity, the smallest member of a family of scopes (same brand/same line) produces the clearest (least distorted) image of that family, despite being the least expensive. I'm NOT saying that the larger scopes can't/aren't as clear - they certainly can be, but since it is so difficult to maintain that clarity with large lenses, the costs increase markedly.

So, we're back to determining OP's requirements. If OP will be using the scope for hunting, and expects to have to glass wildlife early in the morning or well into the evening, a larger scope with good glass gets added to the needs. In a similar setting but limited to open ranges with decent/bright lighting, I'm back to the smaller and better scope. If OP has not cost limitations, and will be hunting from a vehicle or stable position that is easy to get to, then by all means, consider the very best glass in the 85 or 100mm ranges. Distance/target size/atmospheric conditions will undermine the best laid plans, and fighting to make out details in an intensely blurry and wavering image produced through a huge/heavy/expensive scope will add new meaning to frustration and waste. No glass of any quality/size will overcome the optical realities of looking through long distances of humidity, heated air, and wind.
 
Or option "B" is to forget about the need for a spotting scope and go with a Shotmarker system. We have these at my club and after a lot of trial and error we have them running excellent.

 
I really can't think of any scenario where I'd want a straight eyepiece.

Again, it depends on what game you're playing. Old school "sniper-spotter" scopes were straight, but I still don't see why you'd want one these days.

Angled, other than shooting downhill from an elevated position I can't see why you'd want straight.

It’s easier for getting the scope on a target quickly. Better for combat, potentially better for *some* hunting (but I don’t have first hand knowledge there). Not much benefit, and sometimes a detriment for most shooting sports.
 
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I really can't think of any scenario where I'd want a straight eyepiece.

Again, it depends on what game you're playing. Old school "sniper-spotter" scopes were straight, but I still don't see why you'd want one these days.
For digiscoping (photography through a scope), a straight scope is easier to use.
 
Straight is probably more comfortable and versatile but the angled can be shared by two people of different height easier. The point about viewing downhill is an important consideration. I went with angled because both my wife and I will use it together. Otherwise I would have gone with straight.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I think you have pointed me in the right direction. The class isn't until later next year but I will post a course review and what I eventually went with gear-wise. I'm excited, it has been 3+ years since I have taken any training :oops:
 
Just to reiterate what others have said, the quality of the glass is much more important than the magnification. I love my first gen athlon ares 16x45, rarely do I need to jack it up past 30x and on a clear day with minimal mirage I can spot .223-30cal holes on splatter targets at 300yrds. That's the max though for bullet hole spotting and splatter targets are needed for .223. beyond 300 you're using it to read mirage, wind and impact of steel or dirt. Not the creme de la creme of spotting scopes but I'm happy with it for the money I paid.
 
Straight is probably more comfortable and versatile but the angled can be shared by two people of different height easier. The point about viewing downhill is an important consideration. I went with angled because both my wife and I will use it together. Otherwise I would have gone with straight.
One of my favorite advantages of angled is when I'm shooting prone is I can set it up next to me so I don't have to break my position too much to peep through it. If my needs we're more dynamic like hunting/combat I would go straight.
 
where is the class? I took the PRC at Ridgeline, Scope was on the optional list, I brought mine and never took it out. maybe you dont need it for the class.
 
I got one of those as a gift and it is really great in bright light, for the price of course. I was surprised how nice it is on a bright day. Darker days less so, but it definitely gets the job done.
So, to all celestron ultima users. i wanted to do this for a while, but baaden planetarium eyepieces were just too damn expensive, made no sense to spend a $300 on an eyepiece for a $200 scope.

so i tried a chinesium one - SVBONY 1.25inch Telescope Eyepieces 68° 9mm Ultra Wide Angle Fully Multi-Coated

it is not an exact fit, but not too difficult neither. the bottom part of the lower lens housing needs to be cut off by lower line (after you unscrew the lens out of it, of course).
the upper highlighted extrusion needs to be grinded down, so it all would fit into the celestron. that lens element then needs to be threaded down enough along that cut pipe holder so it would focus same way as the original eyepiece, to get to infinity focus properly. where it was in stock tube was too high.

the result is very nice optically, way better than the stock, in my opinion. opinions differ, of course. :)
1666873025658.png

here is the end result - could have been done prettier, of course, but i was not too concerned about esthetics of it.
i just tested it - the police department door is about 300-500 yds from me, i was able to see and read the font on the printed poster on their door, looked like a usual A4 format page.
major difference is - it is an ultra wide lens, not the stock celestron tunnel vision. i used 9mm and it is, i think, quite OK. looking at it now i think that may be a 6mm would be even better. i was concerned that too much magnification there will be counterproductive, but, the image is pretty damn nice - the core mirrors and optics in the celestron body are very good.

from old thread:
For the f6 80mm scope, fl 480mm;
8mm = 60x, 12mm = 40x, 16mm = 30x, 20mm = 24x, 24mm = 20x.

For the f5.4 100mm scope, fl 540mm;
8mm = 68x, 12mm = 45x, 16mm = 34x, 20mm = 27x, 24mm = 23x.

1C1DBB63-A193-405B-A20F-D77B92268A40.jpeg
 
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where is the class? I took the PRC at Ridgeline, Scope was on the optional list, I brought mine and never took it out. maybe you dont need it for the class.

We're trying out Valor Ridge in Tennessee. My buddy lives right close to there. They say on the description "if you don't bring a spotting scope you will struggle mightily" lol, so I am going to bring one.
 
So, to all celestron ultima users. i wanted to do this for a while, but baaden planetarium eyepieces were just too damn expensive, made no sense to spend a $300 on an eyepiece for a $200 scope.

so i tried a chinesium one - SVBONY 1.25inch Telescope Eyepieces 68° 9mm Ultra Wide Angle Fully Multi-Coated

it is not an exact fit, but not too difficult neither. the bottom part of the lower lens housing needs to be cut off by lower line (after you unscrew the lens out of it, of course).
the upper highlighted extrusion needs to be grinded down, so it all would fit into the celestron. that lens element then needs to be threaded down enough along that cut pipe holder so it would focus same way as the original eyepiece, to get to infinity focus properly. where it was in stock tube was too high.

the result is very nice optically, way better than the stock, in my opinion. opinions differ, of course. :)
View attachment 678647

here is the end result - could have been done prettier, of course, but i was not too concerned about esthetics of it.
i just tested it - the police department door is about 300-500 yds from me, i was able to see and read the font on the printed poster on their door, looked like a usual A4 format page.
major difference is - it is an ultra wide lens, not the stock celestron tunnel vision. i used 9mm and it is, i think, quite OK. looking at it now i think that may be a 6mm would be even better. i was concerned that too much magnification there will be counterproductive, but, the image is pretty damn nice - the core mirrors and optics in the celestron body are very good.

from old thread:
For the f6 80mm scope, fl 480mm;
8mm = 60x, 12mm = 40x, 16mm = 30x, 20mm = 24x, 24mm = 20x.

For the f5.4 100mm scope, fl 540mm;
8mm = 68x, 12mm = 45x, 16mm = 34x, 20mm = 27x, 24mm = 23x.

View attachment 678648
so you basically made a fixed magX scope. Hows the eye relief. The Celestron Regal 80mm with 27x LER is a pretty good alternative. For a while you could not find just the eye piece.
Just happen to be poking around for "star scoping" stuff and seen this.
LER (Long Eye Relief) Eyepiece | Celestron

eye relief can be a issue especially if you where glasses.


I also have the 20x60 eye piece that works well but once you get past 30x the eye relief and field of view kinda sucks
 
so you basically made a fixed magX scope. Hows the eye relief. The Celestron Regal 80mm with 27x LER is a pretty good alternative. For a while you could not find just the eye piece.
Just happen to be poking around for "star scoping" stuff and seen this.
LER (Long Eye Relief) Eyepiece | Celestron

eye relief can be a issue especially if you where glasses.


I also have the 20x60 eye piece that works well but once you get past 30x the eye relief and field of view kinda sucks
i will, hopefully, get to the range some time next week to test it.
eye relief is not that great, but better than the stock one was. stock one was truly usable only at the minimal 20x magnification, and after that it was just a torture tunnel vision with an incredibly narrow sweet spot. this thing with a 68deg field is completely different, you see the whole field at this magnification same as stock eyepiece was showing at 20x.

but, of course, i need to get it to 300 range first and check how it factually works compared to how it was. i think it should be better based on what i saw - and, again, we speak here about $37 eyepiece on a $208 spotting scope. as skinflinting as it gets. :)
 
We're trying out Valor Ridge in Tennessee. My buddy lives right close to there. They say on the description "if you don't bring a spotting scope you will struggle mightily" lol, so I am going to bring one.
its to bad they dont at least have a recommendation on some idea of what you might need.
My friend has one FOV at 1000 yards is 150' Mag is 50X and it can focus as close as 20'

Plenty of light getting into this thing!
C5 Spotting Scope | Celestron
 
i will, hopefully, get to the range some time next week to test it.
eye relief is not that great, but better than the stock one was. stock one was truly usable only at the minimal 20x magnification, and after that it was just a torture tunnel vision with an incredibly narrow sweet spot. this thing with a 68deg field is completely different, you see the whole field at this magnification same as stock eyepiece was showing at 20x.

but, of course, i need to get it to 300 range first and check how it factually works compared to how it was. i think it should be better based on what i saw - and, again, we speak here about $37 eyepiece on a $208 spotting scope. as skinflinting as it gets. :)
Believe me I was looking for all the LER eye pieces out there for a few friends with the Celestrons.
I did find a chart that gives the magnification results with out doing the math. For some fun I use my Celestron telescope eye pieces in my Regal 80 to look at the stars. Its easier to set up. It provides all sorts of different mag , eye relief, focus.
Theres been some nice views of Saturn, Jupiter and Mars this week.
 
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