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I f'ed up with the M4A3 bolt carrier

If its still in there, maybe try using some kind of vacuum hose? The cotton is so light I imagine it'd have to get sucked out.

ETA: I'm not familiar with the bolt assembly of the AR-15 platform, so if it would inadvertently suck something important out, obviously don't do it.
 
take it outside, fill the tube with lighter fluid and burn it like a torch. It wont burn hot enough to adversely affect the metal and it will get rid of anything in there pretty easily.
 
I've always cleaned that tube out with a Q-tip stretched out and thinned down a bit. Never had any problems like this. I always keep the Q-tip rotating as I move it in and out.
 
I was cleaning the blowback tube with a mini q-tip and some cotton got in there. I tried using a really thin rod to kind of pinch and pull it out but it just went further in.

I am not going to shoot the rifle until it is out, does anyone have a trick? With the two allen head bolts being pinched on the top of the blowback tube it is obvious I am not supposed to touch them.

I am going to try to blow compressed air through it but I know it wont help. I guess there's another trip to Larocca this weekend, ugh.

To answer your question, don't bring it to Larocca's. Bring it to the Harvard Sportsmen's Club this coming Saturday at 2:00. Look for the big mouth with the white Toyota Tundra and he'll fix it for you. Expect it to be extensively test fired, probably on a M16 lower. Expect to have a hell of a good time too.
 
I never clean the gas tube. I use a tooth brush to clean the bolt, lugs and a pipe cleaner to clean the bolt carrier key.

One of my carbines looks like a sludge pit. Every time I run it, it looks like I've been out mudding. Lube is your friend.
 
The gas TUBE you don't clean.

The "key" on the bolt carrier you do clean. A .17 caliber bore brush works about right, though I've used pipe cleaners for quite some time, and had no problems.

Hell, I've even left it dirty (on my own rifle) and it's worked fine.

I'll back Jose on this one.

Lubed is far more important than cleaned, when it comes to an AR. That and using the proper powder.

Most folks here know I've got a pretty good idea of what I'm talking about.
 
The gas TUBE you don't clean.

The "key" on the bolt carrier you do clean.

+1

At the Armalite armorer course they said just this: you have 1000+ psi running through the tube--if that doesn't blow out the crude your little pipe cleaner isn't going to either. Replace it if it looks bad, specifically at the end where it seats into the key. They're only like $12 so keep a spare handy.
 
+1

At the Armalite armorer course they said just this: you have 1000+ psi running through the tube--if that doesn't blow out the crude your little pipe cleaner isn't going to either. Replace it if it looks bad, specifically at the end where it seats into the key. They're only like $12 so keep a spare handy.

The same 1000+ psi that end up in the carrier key.
 
Hey Wookie, IDK who you are or where you've been. Nor do I care.

My rifles have never failed me when I have wanted them or needed them to work. Whatever you do, IDGAF.
 
Which blows through the carrier key into the rear of the bolt ogive between the stem and gas rings so there's no big deal there meaning the base of the carrier key, which is what I'm sure you are talking about, is not a dead end part for the gas flow.
Just bring the little bugger to Harvard Saturday and I'll go over the whole shebang with you. I always have a bunch of spare parts in my truck so I'll show you a carrier key as to what it looks like off the bolt carrier and how it works.
Thanks all.
J
 
The bolt itself is the "dead end", sort of.

The key doesn't need to be as clean as folks think.

Jose mentioned he gets away with not cleaning it, and that's certainly correct.

I generally clean as well as I do, either from requirement (issued M4) or guilt (personal M4 clone). The key areas that really cause the bad malfs with AR's are the chamber and the magazine. The Vietnam jams that were killing people were 99% chamber issues, cured by issue of adequate cleaning equipment and eventually chrome lined chambers and bores (and changing the specs on calcium carbonate content in the ball powder used). The powder used and rust accumulation in the chamber caused most of the troubles.
 
To answer your question, don't bring it to Larocca's. Bring it to the Harvard Sportsmen's Club this coming Saturday at 2:00. Look for the big mouth with the white Toyota Tundra and he'll fix it for you. Expect it to be extensively test fired, probably on a M16 lower. Expect to have a hell of a good time too.

I was down there last weekend with Gerry C. He let me shoot some of his full auto's! I planned to come down again this weekend; funny you say that but now I'm working Friday night and Saturday.
 
If you have dammaged the carrier key and it needs to be replaced I can do this for you.
I have keys and cap screws in stock. I can remove the dammaged key, replace it with a new one and stake the cap screws.
You can ship me the bolt or stop by.
Call me if you have questions.
413 579 1994
Thank you
John
 
Yes, the key has an opening on each end but it's attached to the carrier which slows down the gas and that can cause deposits. In contrast the tube is open on both ends and when the carrier blows back it is free to exhaust the gas out completely.

but you don't have to take my word for it--I'm no internet tough guy [laugh]
 
Preacher: I can do Sunday too. Should be there same time, around 2:00. You will marvel at my new toy. It's an adapter that takes the 275rd. drums for the American 180 .22lr and mates them to my M16. Have a Ciener kit and dedicated upper for the 16. Something tells me we are going to have a ball this weekend.
 
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