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How NOT to clean a suppressor

ScottS

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So, after half a gazillion rounds, I decided it was time to clean my XCaliber Genesis .22LR can. Since the baffles are anodized 7075 Al (except the blast baffle), the dip is out, so I wanted to try out something else. I've read good things about Berrymman Chem-Dip carb cleaner.

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Cuts the carbon/gook, and safe for aluminum (most carb's are aluminum). So, into the can for 24 hours. The baffles all look pretty good, and it's safe for aluminum, but...

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Oops. Not so safe for paint, and it looks like the tube was painted. It really took it off. So, the can went out to Old Man Armory in Weare (NH) for Cerakote. Originally I wanted to go back to black (Graphite Black), but at the last minute I decided on MagPul Flat Dark Earth (Flat Dark Earth is the Best Dark Earth). I got lucky because he was shooting FDE the next day, so after dropping it off on Tuesday, I picked it up today (Thursday). And it's...perfect.

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I decided on FDE because I have a few black cans to match my black hosts, but what about my FDE one? Now I have a match.

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Lessons learned:
1. Chem-Dip eats paint. And how.
2. Old Man Armory does flawless work. The can is better than new.
3. All cans should match their hosts.
 

ScottS

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Well, that turned out a happy story.
Indeed. I forgot to mention I about shit myself when I pulled the can out, imaging the baffles all crumbling out like wet saltines, but actually the anodizing on the end caps was fine, and the baffles slid right out. A little light scrubbing with a brass brush, and they're good to go. I was surprised the tube was painted. I thought it would be a much more durable finish.
 

ScottS

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You placed the whole ASSEMBLED suppressor in the dip?

Will it work for non-anodized aluminum baffles?

RC
Yeah. The idea was to make it easier to slide the baffles out. I have a pusher tool to drive them out, but I wanted to try getting breaking up/dissolbving some of the carbon first.

It's actually carb cleaner, and carb parts are typically cast aluminum, non-anodized.
 

JRT

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Yeah. The idea was to make it easier to slide the baffles out. I have a pusher tool to drive them out, but I wanted to try getting breaking up/dissolbving some of the carbon first.

It's actually carb cleaner, and carb parts are typically cast aluminum, non-anodized.
For non-aluminum baffles I use a Hornady heated ultrasonic bath. Two 20 minute cycles with some light brushing in between and they come out pretty good. Thankfully I googled using ultrasonic and I saw the result of putting the tube in, takes the coating right off.
 

Dennis in MA

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I feel like less of a man living in a state that doesn't allow cans.

Although we all should feel like less of men because we have to federally register them. Because it causes Bonnie & Clyde to commit more bank robberies and stuff. ?????
 

citoriguy

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Why not something more mild like Simple Green?

The can looks great though - looks like some top-notch work.
 

ScottS

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I feel like less of a man living in a state that doesn't allow cans.

Although we all should feel like less of men because we have to federally register them. Because it causes Bonnie & Clyde to commit more bank robberies and stuff. ?????
Tell me about it. I saw a clip of Chris Matthews recently (in the last week or so) saying "Silencers are for criminals only. There's no lawful reason to own one." Cocksucker. Other than Dorner (the rogue deputy in CA) and the VA Beach shooter, no one can come up with a criminal use of a legally-owned can. And there are millions of them. Did I say "cocksucker" already?
 
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ScottS

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Why not something more mild like Simple Green?

The can looks great though - looks like some top-notch work.
I use the aluminum-safe Simple Green (the regular Simple Green is not safe for aluminum) in my ultrasonic, and it doesn't really cut the carbon. Cleans out some of the fouling, but I wanted to try something more carbon-specific, and the Chem-Dip was recommended on another site.
 

ScottS

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How did it do with the baffles? I don't like dealing with the dip and ultrasonic cleaning isn't very good.
The baffles came out surprisingly clean. Two or three firm "thumps" on the bench and the stack came sliding out, which isn't usual. The normally caked-on lead was flaking off (none of that hard scraping). I like it for the baffles, but I'm going to be a damn-sight more careful about the tubes.

I agree on the hassles with the dip, and the generally less-than stellar results I've gotten with ultrasonic. I think on my cans with stainless baffles, I'm going to try tumbling with steel pins. I've already got the tumbler, and the steel pins seem to produce good results on SS baffles.
 

one-eyed Jack

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One of my cans is the Gemtech Viper in .45. Aluminum mono baffle. Gemtech says to soak the whole thing in a mix of tranny fluid and mineral spirits. Center fire rifle cans don't seem to need a lot of cleaning. Jack.
 
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I thought about Berrymans chem dip as I've used it for years for car and motorcycle parts. My tube is cerakoted, so your saying thats safe with chem dip?

For my baffles I just give them a light coating of hoppes #9 with my finger and let them sit for a few hours then a copper chore boy pad cleans them up without too much elbow grease. I clean after every other use, typically every 200-rds or so.
 

Dennis in MA

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Tell me about it. I saw a clip of Chris Matthews recently (in the last week or so) saying "Silencers are for criminals only. There's no lawful reason to own one." Cocksucker. Other than Dorner (the rogue deputy in CA) and the VA Beach shooter, no one can come up with a criminal use of a legally-owned can. And there are millions of them. Did I say "cocksucker" already?
You can't rely on him. He's a tool. He's always been a tool. His like that Jim Rome guy that is/was on ESPN. Likes to hear himself talk. Has no idea what he is saying at the time.

And so what if a criminal uses a can. Who cares???? Did it make it more Killy??? It's a nice thing if you are poaching deer. Otherwise? Not a real factor.
 

ScottS

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I thought about Berrymans chem dip as I've used it for years for car and motorcycle parts. My tube is cerakoted, so your saying thats safe with chem dip?
I am absolutely not saying that. What I'm saying is 1) Chem-Dip took all the paint off the tube of my can; 2) I subsequently had the tube Cerakoted; and 3) I'm not ever putting a tube in Chem-Dip ever again.
 
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For non-aluminum baffles I use a Hornady heated ultrasonic bath. Two 20 minute cycles with some light brushing in between and they come out pretty good. Thankfully I googled using ultrasonic and I saw the result of putting the tube in, takes the coating right off.
You can get a right sized graduated cylinder from Fishersci that is perfectly sized for any can. Get the grade b education ones. Not too expensive.
And liquinox detergent is neutral and will not hurt metals. Wont dissolve lead though.
 
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I am absolutely not saying that. What I'm saying is 1) Chem-Dip took all the paint off the tube of my can; 2) I subsequently had the tube Cerakoted; and 3) I'm not ever putting a tube in Chem-Dip ever again.

My tube stays really clean, I only ever need to run a soft cloth through it. The baffles though, are another story. So, where the baffles are concerned, do you have any apprehension on soaking your baffles in chem dip?
 

ScottS

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My tube stays really clean, I only ever need to run a soft cloth through it. The baffles though, are another story. So, where the baffles are concerned, do you have any apprehension on soaking your baffles in chem dip?
I have no concerns about the baffles. They're aluminum, and the chemical is safe for aluminum carb parts, etc. They came out fine.

I dumped my entire can into the solution because rimfire cans get so dirty, especially after a gazillion rounds, and I've been pretty lazy about cleaning this can for a long time. I hate forcing the baffles out of a carboned-up, dry can. I hoped this would break down a bunch of the carbon and fouling, making baffle removal easier, which it certainly did.
 
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