How much would you pay for it?

I'm looking for a couple of decently priced A2 uppers to go with some 80s that I need to get around to. I prefer stock ARs also, the most I want to do is just rattlecan them.
How cheap do you want to go:
 
I don't want to be a jerk, but its hard to say what my answer is without sounding like one. The question was asked, so I guess it deserves an honest answer. I wouldn't pay anything for it. Obviously if it was selling for 3-400 bucks or so, I would buy it and part it out. But I think it looks terrible, it would be embarrassing as a range toy, and I wouldn't want any of that stuff on any rifle that I keep for serious use. So, I don't have any real use for it. Reminds me of one of them Honda civics with all the funky shit hanging off of it that little high school kids ride around in thinking they've got a nice ride. Its a clown car. Same thing, for me. Its a clown rifle.
 
I don't want to be a jerk, but its hard to say what my answer is without sounding like one. The question was asked, so I guess it deserves an honest answer. I wouldn't pay anything for it. Obviously if it was selling for 3-400 bucks or so, I would buy it and part it out. But I think it looks terrible, it would be embarrassing as a range toy, and I wouldn't want any of that stuff on any rifle that I keep for serious use. So, I don't have any real use for it. Reminds me of one of them Honda civics with all the funky shit hanging off of it that little high school kids ride around in thinking they've got a nice ride. Its a clown car. Same thing, for me. Its a clown rifle.
…I mean, I thought I was a lot nicer about it…
 
It’s been bothering me for awhile but how is the little grip and handstop at 9 o’clock used? I’m imagining the support hand holding it in some strange positions.
 
I just read your list again. I have th same like on my X95. That thing is pretty cool. You should have a picture of that! I shopped around and found one for a good price thinking it came with the switch of course it didn't. Spent more buying the two separately...
 
Ya, I feel bad about being that blunt. I apologize to the OP. If the builder likes it, that’s all that matters.
He’s okay. He’s been consulting with the NES hive mind the whole way along on his builds and purchases. He’s definitely got an independent streak, but he’s smart about knowing what he wants.

You’re right: as long as the OP is happy.
 
That seems like a good price. Does anyone have any reviews on Bearcreek arsenal products?
I have used several, but only on “budget” builds. For standard 5.56 ARs they are what I call “adequate”. Not high end by any stretch, but they get the job done, particularly the 1:7 and 1:8 twist offerings. They are having a 10% sale on all their 5.56 uppers.

ETA. Midway USA’s AR Stoner uppers are made by Bear Creek.
 
So no anti-seize on your barrel nut or muzzle device? Got it. 😬
AR's aren't legos
To me, anti seize isnt needed for a barrel nut. It would thrown off the torque value for 1. And 2 its mainly used to fight against elements.
If you cant break away 50 ft lbs you have way more problems than no anti seize.

But they really are when you compare it to building other rifles like AK's, HK's, M1A etc
Are the standard torques dry specs,
or specs for threads that have been lubricated?
That I did not see anywhere
I’ll raise you: have you cycled the torque to (or slightly past) the torque spec once or twice before the final setting. 😂😂😂
I actually did do that
It’s been bothering me for awhile but how is the little grip and handstop at 9 o’clock used? I’m imagining the support hand holding it in some strange positions.
index and middle at 6
Thumb goes over the the 9
pull in and down at the same time

The little bit in front of the 9 is a barrier stop
Ya, I feel bad about being that blunt. I apologize to the OP. If the builder likes it, that’s all that matters.
Your good. I half expect it whenever I make a thread
He’s okay. He’s been consulting with the NES hive mind the whole way along on his builds and purchases. He’s definitely got an independent streak, but he’s smart about knowing what he wants.

You’re right: as long as the OP is happy.
Thanks
 
I asked because only long after joining NES I learned that
casual use of anti-seize is a big no-no for threaded things with formal torque specs.

(Not a Builder - I sometimes skinflint working on our cars)
Some threads are specified dry, others wet. Depends on the design. IIRC, the AR barrel nut is steel while the upper is aluminum; to prevent galvanic corrosion in a firearm that's intended to be used in the elements, Stoner called for grease. Antiseize is, it seems, an accepted replacement.

For the same reason that assembling wet can be bad if specified dry, the reverse can be worse.

This is all from vague memories, and generalized knowledge. I'm sure one of our actual armorers would have more/better info.
 
Some threads are specified dry, others wet. Depends on the design. IIRC, the AR barrel nut is steel while the upper is aluminum; to prevent galvanic corrosion in a firearm that's intended to be used in the elements, Stoner called for grease. Antiseize is, it seems, an accepted replacement.

For the same reason that assembling wet can be bad if specified dry, the reverse can be worse.

This is all from vague memories, and generalized knowledge. I'm sure one of our actual armorers would have more/better info.
That's a bingo!
Absolutely grease or anti-seize should be used on the barrel nut. I use Aeroshell 33MS and you can also and anti-seize with copper (Loctite CS-A)
The grease and pre-tensioning the nut will give you the proper and true final torque setting. Galvanic corrosion is probably not a real world problem with coated parts (esp hard anodized aluminum), but you ever plan on replacing the barrel a couple years down the line, you are going to be thankful you used something. I've pulled barrels off old guns where I though I was going to snap lugs.

This is all getting into the weeds of how one should put together an AR, but the moral of the story is you have no idea how a used gun was put together.
Someone saying they did it properly is worth exactly 70 inch-pounds of jack-squat at the end of the day.

OP asked how you could mess the process up, turns out there is a long list.
The more "less conventional" the build the more likely you are going to get problems either because you have chosen unwisely in parts selection/combination or put something together backassward.
When the outside of the gun is be-dazzled in decorative-klingon-melee-spikes and the optic is mounted on the handguard, you should pause and ponder what's going on the inside. Not only would I not pay any moneys for this, but you couldn't pay me enough to put my face within 6 feet much less 6 inches of the loaded chamber of that rifle.
Not being ugly, just brutally honest. If my tone is snarky, it's because I open up NES in the morning between my second coffee and first dump.
 
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That's the reason I don't do high end builds. The low end stuff I know I can at least get my money back and maybe make a tiny profit in a high demand market.
I'd price mine competitive with PSA or such at that time.
 
That's a bingo!
Absolutely grease or anti-seize should be used on the barrel nut. I use Aeroshell 33MS and you can also and anti-seize with copper (Loctite CS-A)
The grease and pre-tensioning the nut will give you the proper and true final torque setting. Galvanic corrosion is probably not a real world problem with coated parts (esp hard anodized aluminum), but you ever plan on replacing the barrel a couple years down the line, you are going to be thankful you used something. I've pulled barrels off old guns where I though I was going to snap lugs.

This is all getting into the weeds of how one should put together an AR, but the moral of the story is you have no idea how a used gun was put together.
Someone saying they did it properly is worth exactly 70 inch-pounds of jack-squat at the end of the day.

OP asked how you could mess the process up, turns out there is a long list.
The more "less conventional" the build the more likely you are going to get problems either because you have chosen unwisely in parts selection/combination or put something together backassward.
When the outside of the gun is be-dazzled in decorative-klingon-melee-spikes and the optic is mounted on the handguard, you should pause and ponder what's going on the inside. Not only would I not pay any moneys for this, but you couldn't pay me enough to put my face within 6 feet much less 6 inches of the loaded chamber of that rifle.
Not being ugly, just brutally honest. If my tone is snarky, it's because I open up NES in the morning between my second coffee and first dump.
A small amount of heat will take the barrel nut right of.
I've fought rust and corrosion that are much harder on automotive hardware and won.
The barrel nut I have has a wrench boss vs lugs. So torque application is much broader.
Also mentioned in an edit that the optics were fixed. At the time I was just slapping them on.
 
@DarkJoker33 what did you think about those wild charging handles? I saw them advertised a couple years ago and was def interesting in the change of format, but I haven’t seen one again until just now. Did you like it? Hate it? Meh?
I did swap out the charging handle for a side charging unit.
I swapped out the stock as well back to the ab arms one and slightly modded it
 
OP, forgive me if it has been stated previously, but I gotta ask...how much do you have into the rifle?
I actually did the rough math a while back.
My dumbass could've bought an mr556 if I recall correctly.
It would've been a bare bones version.

I did not have all the money at once. So I had to purchase parts over a period of time
 
You guys would hate my AR's. Not a single accessory except the sling. All but one in A2 configuration. The Black Sheep is an M4 clone flat-top with flip-ups that I pinned the 6-pos stock in the shortest position for "house clearing"...
NES would also hate my ARs ...

Wait, that is right, I own AKs. [laugh]
 
OP has successfully started a "how much is my gun worth?" thread and didn't get locked.

That is next level online operator stuff.
It seem like the ingredients for the secret sauce not to get nuked is:
1. Go green.
2. To present a firearm for consideration that no one in their right mind would consider buying, therefore there is absolutely no confusion with a classified.

[laugh] [laugh] [laugh]
 
It seem like the ingredients for the secret sauce not to get nuked is:
1. Go green.
2. To present a firearm for consideration that no one in their right mind would consider buying, therefore there is absolutely no confusion with a classified.

[laugh] [laugh] [laugh]
It is how he worded it ... asking people about guns they built, then throwing his gun out there.

I have to give a rating of 5 🥦 🥦🥦🥦🥦 ... genius.
 
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