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How long does it take for a .308 to lose it's zero?

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Hey there,


I've got a Savage Axis .308, with the stock Bushnell scope and I'm wondering how difficult or how long it takes to lose it's zero? I zeroed it a couple months ago, and I store it in a hard case with eggshell foam so it's pretty snug. I've heard stories of scopes losing a zero if stored for too long, or if banged on accident. I mean we move my case around as we're rearranging the house but as stated it's normall stored vertically butt down in the hard case. and the eggshell foam keeps it pretty snug.

Wondering if you guys could add insight on what it ACTUALLY takes to lose it's zero?
 
If you bump it HARD, loosen the mounts, change ammo, or just generally messed up when mounting the glass originally, you'll need to check you zero. Otherwise, given the circumstances you've described, you should be good to go.
 
The scope should never loose its zero unless badly abused. Guns with wood stocks can loose their zero over time as the humidity change causes the wood's moisture content to change and the wood to slightly warp and change the pressure it puts on the barrel. This is part of why any accurate gun as the barrel free floated. Now that I think of it, if the barrel isn't free floated, maybe a new plastic stock will "settle in" over the first year of its life.
ETA: never mind. I just looked and the Axis has a free floated barrel. You should be able to take it out a year from now and still be zeroed.
 
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If you bump it HARD, loosen the mounts, change ammo, or just generally messed up when mounting the glass originally, you'll need to check you zero. Otherwise, given the circumstances you've described, you should be good to go.

Okay great. I mean ammo wise, I generally shoot American whitetails by Hornandy, sometimes I Shoot fusions. But they're both .308 Winchester, designed for my firearm. As for the scope, it came mounted on the rifle, and the mounts seem tight as they always have. The gun has a kick and I generally put about 40 rounds through it when I'm at the range, but that shouldn't loosen it I wouldn't think. Going out hunting this weekend, just wanted to make sure. :)
 
Highly recommended to confirm your zero before going out hunting, regardless of the glass.

Ain't worth missing for being lazy.
 
Hey there,


I've got a Savage Axis .308, with the stock Bushnell scope and I'm wondering how difficult or how long it takes to lose it's zero? I zeroed it a couple months ago, and I store it in a hard case with eggshell foam so it's pretty snug. I've heard stories of scopes losing a zero if stored for too long, or if banged on accident. I mean we move my case around as we're rearranging the house but as stated it's normall stored vertically butt down in the hard case. and the eggshell foam keeps it pretty snug.

Wondering if you guys could add insight on what it ACTUALLY takes to lose it's zero?

If the .308 loses its zero...does it become a .38??? [grin]
 
Like other have said if its mounted right only time the zero will change if you smash the scope , different ammo , or if it's a pos scope that can't handle recoil.

Just cause you shoot .308 every brand you might need different zeros . Different loads and bullet shape effect your zero.
If you use cheap ammo your zero can be little off between different lots. but if you shoot one brand of ammo match grade it should all be the same.
 
Like other have said if its mounted right only time the zero will change if you smash the scope , different ammo , or if it's a pos scope that can't handle recoil.

Just cause you shoot .308 every brand you might need different zeros . Different loads and bullet shape effect your zero.
If you use cheap ammo your zero can be little off between different lots. but if you shoot one brand of ammo match grade it should all be the same.

This is great info.

I definitely try to stick to one brand. I usually shoot either fusions or American Whitetail, both aren't cheap military grade stuff.

This is probably a long shot, but anyone have any insight on the Bushnell that comes with the Savage Axis? Being a beginner, I've only heard great things regarding the Axis, that's why I decided to go with it as an entry level rifle. So far so good with it.
 
This is great info.

I definitely try to stick to one brand. I usually shoot either fusions or American Whitetail, both aren't cheap military grade stuff.

This is probably a long shot, but anyone have any insight on the Bushnell that comes with the Savage Axis? Being a beginner, I've only heard great things regarding the Axis, that's why I decided to go with it as an entry level rifle. So far so good with it.

That combination will out shoot 75% of the people who pick it up, so shoot the heck out of it, get really good, and then when you're ready for more gun, you know what you want.
 
That combination will out shoot 75% of the people who pick it up, so shoot the heck out of it, get really good, and then when you're ready for more gun, you know what you want.

I'm sorry, could you rephrase that? I didn't follow that. :(
 
The rifle will shoot better than most people who shoot it. Meaning that if it's not accurate, it's the shooter not the gun most of the time. I'd suggest that you shoot it a bunch, get very good with it, and when you want to upgrade, figure out what you want in a rifle that your current one doesn't provide you.
 
This is great info.

I definitely try to stick to one brand. I usually shoot either fusions or American Whitetail, both aren't cheap military grade stuff.

This is probably a long shot, but anyone have any insight on the Bushnell that comes with the Savage Axis? Being a beginner, I've only heard great things regarding the Axis, that's why I decided to go with it as an entry level rifle. So far so good with it.


Same brand, different weight, different velocity bullet will change zero. Bushnell is a decent scope, but it is entry level. Better than some, nowhere near as good as others. It's not that hard to check and reset zero.
 
The rifle will shoot better than most people who shoot it. Meaning that if it's not accurate, it's the shooter not the gun most of the time. I'd suggest that you shoot it a bunch, get very good with it, and when you want to upgrade, figure out what you want in a rifle that your current one doesn't provide you.

Thanks for the clarity! So it is indeed a very good starter rifle then? I've enjoyed shooting at the range. at 75-100ft I'm pretty much dead on where I am it. It helps also, I have 20/10 vision as well!

Wish me luck this weekend!
 
True.

I'll make a point to go before hand.

If possible zero where you will be hunting especially if your changing elevation or overall climate.
Temp humidty elevation all play a roll.
That said my dads deer rifle had the same scope on it for 20 years. In those 20 years you could be certain the first shot would be within a 2" dia around where you put the crosshairs.
For a hunting rifle thats pretty good. On average the first 2 shots would be much better than that but I never seen or heard of my dad rezeroing that scope. He never changed ammo though. He purchased 1500 rounds of the same lot# when he found the ammo that gun liked.

The rifle took a trip down the hill one day. few dings and scratches. Even though the scope rattled my dad took a few shots and it still was on target. Scope went out to luepold and was repaired. That was the last "rifle" hunting trip for my dad.

I have that old VXIII 2.5x8x32 on my "varmint" AR right now. im not super nice to it and its held zero for 200 rounds with out issue.

Alot of scopes not holding zero has to do with people constanly chasing adjustments.
So many scopes have back lash or slop in the adjustments. I have a nikkon that will not move up on elevation for 6 clicks then it will begin to move. then its fine. if you try to move it again it gets worse....you will need as many clicks down to get a movement om target.
 
Sight it in with the ammo you plan on hunting with while wearing the same clothing. One round at a time and wait for the barrel to cool, then again. A cold barrel is what you will be shooting the big buck with so make it count. Good luck.
 
I would like that. My range is indoors, and only goes to 100 ft. I've been looking into the Plaistow rod and gun club

if you shooting point of aim point of impact at 100 FEET you might miss anything beyound that?

also keep in mind magX can play with your zero also. Anything inside 200 yards I generally stayed at 6X closer in wooded area down on 2.5

If you go to your indoor range and "zero" (zero to equal point of aim is where the impact is) your scope 100 feet your going to be off by a few inches qt 100 yards

The math is a little easier with 25 yards/75 feet
If you zero a 160 grain soft point at a a velocity of 2600-2700fps @ 25 yards your going to be hitting aprox 2.5-3" high at 100 and about 1" high at 200. Really not bad for a nice broad side shot behind the shoulder.

if you zero @ 25 yards at about 1/2" low or so you should be able to keep the shot in the kill zone with out trying to hold high or low or mess with the scope out to about 275 yards
 
Sight it in with the ammo you plan on hunting with while wearing the same clothing. One round at a time and wait for the barrel to cool, then again. A cold barrel is what you will be shooting the big buck with so make it count. Good luck.

this, and leave the barrel dirty until after the hunt
 
Thanks guys.

I usually clean my rifle ager a day of shooting... What does keeping the barrel sorry do?

Also thanks for the math tips on the inside vs outdoor zero.
 
Thanks guys.

I usually clean my rifle ager a day of shooting... What does keeping the barrel sorry do?

Also thanks for the math tips on the inside vs outdoor zero.

The thinking is that the barrel will shoot the same at a deer as it did your lay shot at the range if you don't clean it between those two shots. Frankly, I don't buy it.
 
A good scope and mounts, and your zero won't change. It can change significantly with ammo. I've gone to match 168gr bthp and mine is now amazingly accurate. Stick with a combo that works once you're there.
 
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