Homemade Kydex

not new guy

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I have a bunch of stuff that I'd like to have a kydex holster or sheath for but: (a) I don't like shipping my knives and guns around; and (b) I end up spending too much time finding someone who's actually selling a design I want to buy. So I did the only thing that made sense and ordered a bunch of rivets, some sheets of kydex, a rivet tool and a couple of belt attachments with an aim to make my own.

Anybody out there making their own kydex gear? Any tips, tricks or resources you want to recommend?
 
Build a press setup for forming the kydex around what you want it to hold. Medium density foam/neoprene works well. I made a press myself without looking into other designs and it works well for knives. You'll need a way to clamp it shut quickly too.

Be sure to watch it as it warms up (oven is best) so that it's soft enough to form, but doesn't melt on you.

Before I start making any additional items, I'll probably pick up an arbor press to use with the rivet tool. Since using a hammer just isn't as precise as I want.

If you're going to shape the kydex, a belt sander/grinder (bench top) works well with heavy grit belts (initially). Finer grit belts will give a better edge finish. A bandsaw makes cutting the kydex sheets easier as well. Just be sure to give at least an inch all the way around what you're going to form it around.

I bought from both Amazon and some knife making suppliers for kydex and tools. Google search for options. Shop around and you'll find decent pricing (to your door).

It's almost time to get the new belt sander build finished so that I can work on some blades that need to be completed. Then wheel out the forge and start forming some more steel.
 
On the topic of finishing edges, grab a propane/mapp torch and some scraps of kydex. you can get a great edge with just a little practice.
 
I tried making a sheath for a knife. It turned out ok. As golddiggie pointed out, you need to watch it carefully to pull it out of the oven at the right time. I had a guide for thermoforming kydex somewhere that gave some temps to hit - I'll see if I can find it.
On the topic of rivets, I used screw together binding posts. I drilled holes along the edge after the piece was formed. That process worked well.
For a form, I cut out the profile of my knife blade from a sheet of balsa. When clamping the sheath, I used some scrap balsa to distribute the pressure + the clamps deformed the kydex on my first attempt.
 
Build a press setup for forming the kydex around what you want it to hold. Medium density foam/neoprene works well. I made a press myself without looking into other designs and it works well for knives. You'll need a way to clamp it shut quickly too.

Be sure to watch it as it warms up (oven is best) so that it's soft enough to form, but doesn't melt on you.

Before I start making any additional items, I'll probably pick up an arbor press to use with the rivet tool. Since using a hammer just isn't as precise as I want.

If you're going to shape the kydex, a belt sander/grinder (bench top) works well with heavy grit belts (initially). Finer grit belts will give a better edge finish. A bandsaw makes cutting the kydex sheets easier as well. Just be sure to give at least an inch all the way around what you're going to form it around.

I bought from both Amazon and some knife making suppliers for kydex and tools. Google search for options. Shop around and you'll find decent pricing (to your door).

It's almost time to get the new belt sander build finished so that I can work on some blades that need to be completed. Then wheel out the forge and start forming some more steel.

Good stuff here.

Would something like an old waffle press/sandwich maker/Foreman grill work as a press, with the guts stripped out and replaced with foam?

Is heating it in an oven the best approach, presumably to get it heated uniformly? Vs something like a heat gun?
 
Good stuff here.

Would something like an old waffle press/sandwich maker/Foreman grill work as a press, with the guts stripped out and replaced with foam?

Is heating it in an oven the best approach, presumably to get it heated uniformly? Vs something like a heat gun?
Don't know about using the waffle press or Foreman grill. I wanted something with more capacity than that. Mostly because I could see needing to make sheaths for longer blades (have one in process that's about 22" overall). I simply used plywood and some 2x3 lumber I had hanging around to make mine. If you want to get fancy, you can also install hinges on one end/side. I've seen videos of those being made and used.

You'll need foam that can handle contact with hot items. Short term contact with up to about 300F should do the trick.

I used the kitchen oven mostly because that's the most viable option. Some use toaster ovens, if they're heating small enough pieces. Finding good information for time at temperature for what you're forming would also be helpful. I learned to NOT use a tray for the kydex. Mostly because it will stick to it and ruins that piece. You can typically tell, by looking, when the material is warm enough to form.

For the rivets, or screws, I make sure to keep the pieces of kydex clamped together while I drill those holes. You want to do that post forming stage. I also use my drill press to make it easier. I'm sure there are people using hand drills. But if you have a drill press, why not use it? If you don't have a drill press, WHY not? ;)

I'll probably be making a new forming press over the coming months. Most likely after I move next (hoping for first half of 2021). I'll probably get proper foam for the forming and make the press with hinges. Plus large enough to form anything I can think I'll want to do.
 
I do have a drill press. Sounds like I need to spend a little time doing some research on all this. Thanks for the info.
 
I haven't really gotten into forming yet, though I've been wanting to use some silicone sheets and a vacuum to make a compliant clamp. Should work a treat. I just have too many things to do ahead of this right now.
 
There are many many videos on YouTube on how to do this including the best way to press it, best press materials etc...

RC
 
My tips:

1. Just get started and start out quick and dirty. You don't need anything other than a toaster oven, some hard foam, a few big heavy books or two pieces of scrap wood, sandpaper (heavy and light grit), a saw, a craft knife, a drill, and a heat gun.

2. Think about your design first. Wraparound design is easier than two piece, especially if you are only going to have a single clip. Expect failures. That's fine - you'll still end up ultimately producing a great holster for a fraction of the cost.

3. Plan for exactly which part(s) of the gun are going to index into the holster to make it "click" for retention. The trigger guard is typical, but may not be the best part.

4. When you cut and break a section of Kydex, you'll see white along the break line. If you are able to watch that line as the piece heats up, you'll know the piece is ready for molding when the white turns black.

5. Don't get too wrapped up in riveting. It's actually not that necessary. I've done a bunch of holsters without any rivets...and quickly realized that with the right design you don't need them at all.

6. Use clips like the Quick Clip Pro that have now pretty much standardized on the distance between screws. This will make it a lot easier on you if you want to add things like claws, or swap out other clips.

I can slap together a holster in under an hour at this point for about $12 (most of the cost is the clip, which can be close to $10) for a design that many manufacturers are selling for $70+.

I cut a sheet, put it in the toaster for a minute, remove it and wrap the gun, put it in between two foam sheets, throw a large book on top and stand on it for a minute. Then I drill screw holes, make relief cuts to get the general shape of the holster, sand all edges, put the gun back in and use a heat gun to dimple the trigger guard to ensure the right level of retention. Add the screws and clip and I'm done. 20201107_145123.jpg
 
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