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Helped birth a member's first RC K98

majspud

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Traveled to the free state today to help birth Daekken's first RC Mauser K98. We'd been trading messages to help him find his first one. He'll tell you all about it; It's a CE41 (Sauer) in an early Obendorf Walnut stock cut for a 10 inch cleaning rod. From my Great Giveaway, I outfitted his new baby with a reproduction sling, original frosch (sling keeper), original cleaning rod, original front and rear capture screws (there's a difference), and 10 stripper clips. Assuring everything was functional, we adjourned to the range and got it sighted in. Once his was set, I had brought his CE41's older brother, a matched 1939 147 (Sauer). I sat at the 50 yards bench, but shot offhand without the sling as it was original. First 10 were low left, then counter aim and fire for effect. Almost forgot how much fun shooting a matched rifle is. I was using crummy '79 M75 Yugo and decent '53 M49 Yugo. Yes, I shot corrosive ammo out of a matched German K98---so I just cleaned it properly then and there. I'm saving my new PPU for the K43 which has yet to make a range trip this year.

I was in the '55 all day; New Bedford, Hudson, Swansea, New Bedford, Halifax cruise night, Swansea, New Bedford. 348 miles was the longest 1 day trip in the car. Got a little tired at the end...not the most ergonomic car...
t
 

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A Second German. (versus a First A first German)

As majspud alluded, I had been hunting for a Mauser for some time. He was gracious enough to let me bounce a few different listings off him during my search. As I expected, I ended up with an RC. Here is one of the seller's images:
k98-1.PNG
With majspud's help we were able to restore some of its former glory (forgive my bad pictures).
20180902_232111.jpg 20180902_232130.jpg

One particular motivating factor that drove me on this specific K98 was that the receiver was made in Suhl (J.P. Sauer), which is also the birthplace of my recently acquired East German Makarov. Thuringia is now well-represented in my collection.
20180902_232151.jpg 20180902_232204.jpg

I used PPU soft tip in the shooting. I've long wondered if my cross-eye dominance (left hand, right eye) accounts for my hitting left a lot, as it seems to happen to me with many of my pieces. Unless there's a better option than switching hands (to right hand, right eye) or some other method, I am probably in this scenario for the time being.
20180902_232342.jpg

I've tumbled my brass and will start working up a cache to reload. As you might expect, the action is much nicer than my 91/30 despite being an RC. It's also a great deal handier. One of these days I'll have to do a WW2 bolt-action head-to-head between the K98, my No.4 Mk I Lee-Enfield, and my 91/30.

Either way, if Mountain runs one of his postal matches this winter, I should have some good options!

All in all, thus far it has been everything I've hoped for, and I'm looking forward to getting more familiar with it and working to squeeze as much out of it as I can.

I am indebted to majspud for his patience, skill and knowledge. In addition to providing the parts he also took the time to drive up here and put up with me, as well as pass on a great deal of wisdom and expertise. It was also immaculate weather to ride in his '55 and get out to the range.

Thanks for reading and once again an immense thank you to majspud.
 
What a way to spend a day, cruising in a old car to go shoot older guns! Im glad to see majspud driving that car! Be a waste if it just sits. Same with the old rifles.
 
A Second German. (versus a First A first German)

As majspud alluded, I had been hunting for a Mauser for some time. He was gracious enough to let me bounce a few different listings off him during my search. As I expected, I ended up with an RC. Here is one of the seller's images:
View attachment 245653
With majspud's help we were able to restore some of its former glory (forgive my bad pictures).
View attachment 245654 View attachment 245655

One particular motivating factor that drove me on this specific K98 was that the receiver was made in Suhl (J.P. Sauer), which is also the birthplace of my recently acquired East German Makarov. Thuringia is now well-represented in my collection.
View attachment 245657 View attachment 245658

I used PPU soft tip in the shooting. I've long wondered if my cross-eye dominance (left hand, right eye) accounts for my hitting left a lot, as it seems to happen to me with many of my pieces. Unless there's a better option than switching hands (to right hand, right eye) or some other method, I am probably in this scenario for the time being.
View attachment 245659

I've tumbled my brass and will start working up a cache to reload. As you might expect, the action is much nicer than my 91/30 despite being an RC. It's also a great deal handier. One of these days I'll have to do a WW2 bolt-action head-to-head between the K98, my No.4 Mk I Lee-Enfield, and my 91/30.

Either way, if Mountain runs one of his postal matches this winter, I should have some good options!

All in all, thus far it has been everything I've hoped for, and I'm looking forward to getting more familiar with it and working to squeeze as much out of it as I can.

I am indebted to majspud for his patience, skill and knowledge. In addition to providing the parts he also took the time to drive up here and put up with me, as well as pass on a great deal of wisdom and expertise. It was also immaculate weather to ride in his '55 and get out to the range.

Thanks for reading and once again an immense thank you to majspud.
If your consistently shooting left i doubt its your eyes.
Are you shooting both eyes open when trying to line up the sights? If so take some scotch tape and block enough of your right eye to eliminate its involvement. Like my glasses have the top 1/3 and left side of the right lens blocked. It lessens fatigue and allows light in but takes the right eye out of the game.

Now shooting left all the time is most likely trigger control jerking
,snappy , take advantage of that 2 stage trigger nice smooth squeeze when your done with the shot keep the trigger and finger rearwar., Recoil anticipation= often with out your direct awareness you press your shoulder forward along with a white nuckle grip of the forward hand. last match dakar652 white nuckles where causing some glare! Or you just need to adjust your sights better
 
I have listed my '55 for sale as well as my wife's '67 Mustang. We're downsizing to one antique, and I'm leaning towards a pre-war car.

t

What a way to spend a day, cruising in a old car to go shoot older guns! Im glad to see majspud driving that car! Be a waste if it just sits. Same with the old rifles.
 
Using a brass brush I was able to clean up the metal on the stock, especially the bolt disassembly disk (not sure if that is the proper term). Its use in the takedown of the bolt was one of the many things I learned.
20180903_155452.jpg
 
Have you taken it down and cleaned inside yet? Curious if the bore shot a little cleaner as I did see pits in there.

t
 
Have you taken it down and cleaned inside yet? Curious if the bore shot a little cleaner as I did see pits in there.

t
On Friday afternoon I gave it a quick go-over as I had made plans to shoot again on Saturday. I did another 20 rounds at 100 yds and was low and a tad left; next time I think I'll raise the elevation on the rear sight and see how it goes.

This afternoon I broke down the bolt and gave everything a thorough cleaning, including the chamber and the stock, as previously mentioned. The only thing that I didn't really get to do a good job on was the bore--in my infinite wisdom, while waiting for delivery, I neglected to order any 8mm cleaning utensils. I used my 30cal equipment to clean it for now, but I could tell it wasn't really gripping the bore very well, etc. I have 8mm gear on order and can hopefully give the bore a deep cleaning then.
 
Remember the bore foam.

t
I ordered some. I saw someone a while ago--I think it was mac, post about having good results and I've wanted to try it since then. I use Ballistol as a general cleaner but I don't think it does a great job on a deep cleaning or for bore work, particularly. So, I will see what can be drawn out on the K98.
 
I ordered some. I saw someone a while ago--I think it was mac, post about having good results and I've wanted to try it since then. I use Ballistol as a general cleaner but I don't think it does a great job on a deep cleaning or for bore work, particularly. So, I will see what can be drawn out on the K98.
If the bore is pretty crusty inside I found warming the barrel with a heat gun then take a bucket full of warm water. Place the muzzle in the bucket with hot dish soapy water or simple green. take a patched brush and pump the water through the bore. It will break up a lot of the fouling and loose crude. Then a tight brush and go at it again.
Once you think it's clean then start the bore cleaner.
I have been using gun slick copper foam bore cleaner it works well. Sweets 762 works really well when it's fresh but cost to much IMHO after a year or so it just does not work.
My friends son swears by Montana extreme he shoots solid copper bullets a lot and says it's the best he's come across so far.
I had to do a electrolysis treatment on my RC. It was gross. No matter what it will feel like it will never come clean and these old bores tend to look worse as you remove 50plus years of crud from the pores.

As for ammo , I like PPU for the 8mms if you reload the nosler custom comps with mild load of H4895 do well in my rifle along with cast loads.
I had my run of surplus unless you find some of the 90s vintage Yugoslavia "sniper" ammo it's not worth shooting except to destroy a,washer machine or simular

heres my k98 adventure
dark bore K98

in there is a link majspud hooked me up with ...it made a big difference going through the "accuacy" info. If i get off my ass maybe i will load up some cast loads or light jacketed rounds for the last vintage match?
 
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Good info on the bore. I think I will try to foam a bunch of my rifles like the SKS and 91/30 and maybe my P226 barrel. For pistols I've found a cleaning rod + patch gets stuff that boresnakes just don't. I can't really imagine how I'm doing it "wrong" with the snake since it seems kind of self-explanatory.

How is 8mm brass life? I was gifted about 20 cases at the range once, and figured if I got full sizing dies then I could use those as well as the PPU I've been shooting thus far. I got full sizing 7.62x54R dies partly because I might someday add an M44 or M39 and didn't want to be limited on matching brass to rifle. With the 303's reputation for demolishing brass I went with neck sizing for the Lee-Enfield.

Unfortunately the link majspud provided was either edited to oblivion or as suggested might've been taken out of commission by photobucket changes. After "see picture one" it's just blank. If anyone can reconstitute it based on memory, I'd be willing to give it a try.
 
Good info on the bore. I think I will try to foam a bunch of my rifles like the SKS and 91/30 and maybe my P226 barrel. For pistols I've found a cleaning rod + patch gets stuff that boresnakes just don't. I can't really imagine how I'm doing it "wrong" with the snake since it seems kind of self-explanatory.

How is 8mm brass life? I was gifted about 20 cases at the range once, and figured if I got full sizing dies then I could use those as well as the PPU I've been shooting thus far. I got full sizing 7.62x54R dies partly because I might someday add an M44 or M39 and didn't want to be limited on matching brass to rifle. With the 303's reputation for demolishing brass I went with neck sizing for the Lee-Enfield.

Unfortunately the link majspud provided was either edited to oblivion or as suggested might've been taken out of commission by photobucket changes. After "see picture one" it's just blank. If anyone can reconstitute it based on memory, I'd be willing to give it a try.
Bore snakes are useless for cleaning. Only good for quick maintenance. I have mine soaked in CLP and rip it through before I put it up. Just to have some oil protection on there.
 
Bore snakes are useless for cleaning. Only good for quick maintenance. I have mine soaked in CLP and rip it through before I put it up. Just to have some oil protection on there.

I disagree. It does the job of many patches. Not a be-all, end-all in and of itself, but very helpful. It is the last thing I use, with a shot of CLP down the bore first.

I use 1 size larger; .357 for 8mm, and 8mm for .30-06.
t
 
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I disagree. It does the job of many patches. Not a be-all, end-all in and of itself, but very helpful. It is the last thing I use, with a shot of CLP down the bore first.

I use 1 size larger; .357 for 8mm, and 8mm for .30-06.
t
If your not cleaning the snake after each pull through the bore your not really cleaning much of anything. It my pick up some loose fouling and spread out the clp thats about it.
The best use i found for bore snakes is to give the barrel a quick wipe before heading out to the range.
A nice fitting jag and patches gets more crud out.
I get lazy and use a bore snake but its more for getting some oil in there for protection.
I got the bore cam out, i will do a little before and after bore snake vid so we can see. I have not done this yet so it will be new to me also.
 
I use the snake because on a rifle like an M1 it seems hard to me to get a rod in from the chamber end. With a small barrel that you can isolate like with a semi-auto handgun, I have a plastic cleaning rod that I thread a patch onto that works well and has shown me how much the snake has missed. With a bolt gun, I think a rod would be easier to feed from the chamber side. since the receiver tends not to block the straight line from rear of the receiver through the muzzle.

I saw a video for an Otis "snake" that takes a patch that looks like it might make up for some of the traditional snake's shortcomings. Either way, looking forward to seeing what the foam can do.
 
Congrats, Nice Saur.
So what's the going rate for an RC these days? Seem to be slowly climbing.

I have an early war Mauser Borisgwald RC (mix of Weimar and dirty bird stamps) also with an early walnut stock with most of the shellac removed. First RC that I liked and nice stock stamp markings.

Post a pic of your stock markings when you have a chance. I'll dig around for mine.
 
I use the snake because on a rifle like an M1 it seems hard to me to get a rod in from the chamber end. With a small barrel that you can isolate like with a semi-auto handgun, I have a plastic cleaning rod that I thread a patch onto that works well and has shown me how much the snake has missed. With a bolt gun, I think a rod would be easier to feed from the chamber side. since the receiver tends not to block the straight line from rear of the receiver through the muzzle.

I saw a video for an Otis "snake" that takes a patch that looks like it might make up for some of the traditional snake's shortcomings. Either way, looking forward to seeing what the foam can do.
Im going to gander your going to need more patches. Depending on your level of clean your trying to get to.
 
Im going to gander your going to need more patches. Depending on your level of clean your trying to get to.
Probably. I guess it's a matter of finding what works best for a given person in terms of outcome, ease, and cost. Using patches, nylon brushes, etc. I can get the non-bore parts pretty spotless, but the bore is my bane.
 
Had time to give the bore a cleaning today.
Some good nuggets in there.
20180909_124617.jpg 20180909_124631.jpg
That's two separate sets of paper towels, not the same pair. Plenty of copper among other gunk, as you can see.
I did my Tokarev's barrel and my Sig P226's barrel at the same time. The P226's barrel is nice a shiny again.

My stock markings are not easy to photograph, but here you go.
20180909_115616.jpg

20180909_115637.jpg

And the obligatory crossed Mosin-Nagants:
20180909_115517.jpg
 
Some Russian captured were marked with an X typically on the receiver. I've seen two lines stamped to make an X and a X stamps similar to that one on the stock. My guess is they marked this one on the stock.

Since it's a flat buttstock I would venture to say it's early Mauser obendorf stock. Later cupped would be Czech Brunn.

Is that the only mark on the side of the buttstock? Was it sanded and Russian numbers stamped to match the receiver SN?
 
Some Russian captured were marked with an X typically on the receiver. I've seen two lines stamped to make an X and a X stamps similar to that one on the stock. My guess is they marked this one on the stock.

Since it's a flat buttstock I would venture to say it's early Mauser obendorf stock. Later cupped would be Czech Brunn.

Is that the only mark on the side of the buttstock? Was it sanded and Russian numbers stamped to match the receiver SN?
When he checked it out, majspud identified it as "an early Obendorf Walnut stock cut for a 10 inch cleaning rod." I believe he said 1936-1938. It's not easy to see, but the stamp reads WaA 63 which I have read correlates to "Mauser Werke Oberndorf from about mid-1935 through to 1940." The stock/receiver/parts are all stamped/electropenciled to match (four numbers). Other than the two German stamps, there's the stamp to match the buttplate and the wood portion of the stock to the stamped/electropenciled receiver/bolt parts.

The receiver does have an X on it. My understanding is the that the Soviet "X" stamp on the stock is actually crossed Mosin-Nagants. Other than the "X", the two German stamps are pretty faint. I suspect--but I'm not sure--that it originally had a Soviet-added treatment on the stock (like a shellack) which a subsequent owner removed. This may or may not have affected the stamps, they could have been sanded down a bit by the Soviets as well.

Hoping to shoot it again sometime this week post-bore cleaning.
 
A Second German. (versus a First A first German)

As majspud alluded, I had been hunting for a Mauser for some time. He was gracious enough to let me bounce a few different listings off him during my search. As I expected, I ended up with an RC. Here is one of the seller's images:
View attachment 245653
With majspud's help we were able to restore some of its former glory (forgive my bad pictures).
View attachment 245654 View attachment 245655

One particular motivating factor that drove me on this specific K98 was that the receiver was made in Suhl (J.P. Sauer), which is also the birthplace of my recently acquired East German Makarov. Thuringia is now well-represented in my collection.
View attachment 245657 View attachment 245658

I used PPU soft tip in the shooting. I've long wondered if my cross-eye dominance (left hand, right eye) accounts for my hitting left a lot, as it seems to happen to me with many of my pieces. Unless there's a better option than switching hands (to right hand, right eye) or some other method, I am probably in this scenario for the time being.
View attachment 245659

I've tumbled my brass and will start working up a cache to reload. As you might expect, the action is much nicer than my 91/30 despite being an RC. It's also a great deal handier. One of these days I'll have to do a WW2 bolt-action head-to-head between the K98, my No.4 Mk I Lee-Enfield, and my 91/30.

Either way, if Mountain runs one of his postal matches this winter, I should have some good options!

All in all, thus far it has been everything I've hoped for, and I'm looking forward to getting more familiar with it and working to squeeze as much out of it as I can.

I am indebted to majspud for his patience, skill and knowledge. In addition to providing the parts he also took the time to drive up here and put up with me, as well as pass on a great deal of wisdom and expertise. It was also immaculate weather to ride in his '55 and get out to the range.

Thanks for reading and once again an immense thank you to majspud.

Great find, and kudos to Majspud for his help. That looks like a great one to have. I must admit I know next to nothing regarding Mauser collecting- don't even have one. I'd like an Israeli Mauser someday...

Yes, I do plan to run another Winter Warrior postal match during the best season of the year- Winter is Coming! I'm going to slightly change the format. Best targets earn bragging rights only, and the 'fabulous prizes' awarded via random drawing. Each target submitted gets an entry, no limit for entries unless someone gets cute and submits a bunch of targets with one shot, LOL. This should pull in more folks who have some old iron that isn't quite match ready, and it will also draw in some of the most experienced match shooters who might normally opt out to be good sports.
 
Daekken,

Looks like Ivan got the sander out before the shellacking.
There would have been three bird stamps below the takedown disk on the side. Small E/H, then two larger E/WaA63 of which Ivan left one faint one.

Very cool X marking on the stock. Very nice capture with the CE and walnut stock.
 
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