Help with an Aimpoint

[oldsoldier29]

I recently acquired a Comp M2, and I need to set this back to a factory zero. This is WELL out of zero for me-I havent had the opportunity to shoot it yet, and likely wont until mid Jan. I want to get it to factory zero though, to minimize fudging around with it when the time comes to zero it. As this little device is sort of a new toy to me, I am not sure if I simply center it by eye, or if there is an actual zero. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Len-2A Training]

No idea and my 2 Aimpoints were bought w/o docs.

I suggest looking on their website to see if they have manuals there. If not, give them a call and ask.

 

[beaker]

I would adjust the red dot to coincide with your BUIS to get it close, then zero it in at the range when you can. My micro manual does not have a procedure for returning to factory zero. It does say to only remove one screw cover at a time.

Here is a copy of the ML2 manual, it is exactly like the micro, no return to zero procedure.

http://www.aimpoint.com/upload/products/manual/Manual_M2ML2_inplastad_10590-2.pdf

or

http://www.motov.dk/documents/aimpoint.pdf

Good luck!

 

[Ray-500]

I recently acquired a Comp M2, and I need to set this back to a factory zero. This is WELL out of zero for me-I havent had the opportunity to shoot it yet, and likely wont until mid Jan. I want to get it to factory zero though, to minimize fudging around with it when the time comes to zero it. As this little device is sort of a new toy to me, I am not sure if I simply center it by eye, or if there is an actual zero. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Have several Aimpoints on different pieces. Yes, there is an actual zero...at a distance you choose. Red dot or not, there is still a zero at a determined distance. Have a couple of Comp M2's 2X, as well as a couple of H-1's.

Initially found that I was nowhere on the target. Had no idea where shots were going. Then took a target and surrounded it with plain 8 1/2" paper...all the way around....top/bottom and both sides. Still aimed at the "target", but now had a visual as to where shots were actually going.

Found that the shots were grouping extremely low. Windage was minimal. Cranked up the adjustment to get it on the target paper and fine tuned from there. Once zeroed, it is a fine sight. The initial does take a little work.

"Factory Zero" is the way it comes through to you...which means nothing. It all depends on what you are placing it on. Just keep in mind that all of mine have initially shot low....given what I put them on....and use a wide array of plain paper to get the initial point of impact. After that, its a snap.
Good product, good sight.

 

[RichM]

Our procedure in the Army was to zero with iron sights, then attach CCO (Close Combat Optic). Adjust dot to "lollipop" on the front sight, then go back to the firing line to "fine-tune" the CCO zero.

At close range, be aware that there is a parallax error, so you still need to keep the dot in the center of the scope; at farther ranges that's not necessary, although at ranges other than the zero range distance, you'll still need to compensate for bullet trajectory.


ETA: Zero an M68 Sight Task 071-705-0003

It looks like the Technical Manual is not available to the public... sorry!

 

[Ray-500]

Our procedure in the Army was to zero with iron sights, then attach CCO. Adjust dot to "lollipop" on the front sight, then go back to the firing line to "fine-tune" the CCO zero.

At close range, be aware that there is a parallax error, so you still need to keep the dot in the center of the scope; at farther ranges that's not necessary, although at ranges other than the zero range distance, you'll still need to compensate for bullet trajectory.

That's my basic practice also. Iron first. Then....whatever. Have found with Aimpoint that there is no parallax. Zero, yes. then adjust accordingly for different distances. Need to know the round and the piece. Not super finesse....but will do for "average" use. Definitely not military sniper quality, but..... Have also found that the C-More works great....at least on handguns. Same zeroing as with Aimpoint.....really low to start. After that....up to you.

 

[wolf223]

I recently acquired a Comp M2, and I need to set this back to a factory zero. This is WELL out of zero for me-I havent had the opportunity to shoot it yet, and likely wont until mid Jan. I want to get it to factory zero though, to minimize fudging around with it when the time comes to zero it. As this little device is sort of a new toy to me, I am not sure if I simply center it by eye, or if there is an actual zero. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

i did this with a super sniper scope for S&G's

turn the windage all the way left and elevation all the way down. -so you "bottom" out or cant go any more "left"....

then count the number of clicks on each "up" and "right" until you "bottom" out again.

divide by 2 and that's your "zero"

works with iron sights... not sure about aimpoints.

i agree with all others here. my aimpoint was not even on paper at 25 yds when I got it. it was low and right. since zero, its dead on, using FMJ ammo

 

[oldsoldier29]

Thanks all. What I will do is go off the iron site zero, and work from there. When I put it on last night, I noticed that the dot was in the lower right quadrant-WELL out of my iron site zero. Wasnt sure if there was a baseline adjustment. Chet, thats what I do with scopes too-wasnt sure if it worked for the Aimpoint or not.
Thanks for the advice all-cant wait to get out shooting again!

 

[matt]

buy a bore sighter.

http://www.google.com/products?oe=U...=bore sighter&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wf