Help me I’m stooopid.

I have no option here.

I use my home PC for work too because I cannot stand working on laptops. So I need a home PC.
it sucks if you cannot test which components are still alive. well, it is what it is, good luck.
 
🤣

I’m laughing because I online built this full skinflint rig. Gonna go see how far I can ram my fist into my own ass, brb.

What an a**h*** I am.

View: https://youtu.be/U1UtRnGn5hc



Jesus cwithe. Just for the box?

I want to say mine was well under $4k total also including 32" gigabyte monitor klipsch 2.1 speakers, etc.
 

View: https://youtu.be/U1UtRnGn5hc



Jesus cwithe. Just for the box?

I want to say mine was well under $4k total also including 32" gigabyte monitor klipsch 2.1 speakers, etc.

Beats the f*** out of me.

My last PC (the one that died) was $3,500 back in 2015 not including my monitors nor the same 2.1 Klipsch system you probably have.

My belief is I’m throwing Origin PC $1,000 above cost. But, They have an 800 number vs. If had to troubleshoot something I’d be curled over in cables next to 15 IPAs.

I know what I can and can’t do in this life.
 
not sure if it's been mentioned...I was seeing this on my casings. I put a small piece of the loop side of velcro on the deflector. It had a sticky side on the back of that piece...just big enough to cover the deflector. Worked like a charm and it doesn't come off unless I want it to come off. I can take a picture of it if it would help.
 
anything above $2k is a waste of money. :) excluding monitor, though. but, that 32" one i have now is, well, it is old now. with no desire to change it.
midrange mobo - $250
cpu - $500-600
1tb nvme - $100.
32gb memory - $100 or more? nah.
graphics - a $500 top, but will be back into low $400 soon.

so?

The only reason I spent that much is I was sick of waiting. for GPU prices to drop. And this is a once in a decade thing for me. I replace cars more often than these
machines. I also f***ing HATE opening the case on my own shit. Like with a red blooded hate. I want it done. I'm not getting paid to work on it, so I just want to do it once and get
it over with and maybe clean the dirt out once every couple of years, and thats it. I don't "tinker" with shit anymore unless im helping a friend or getting paid for it. So I throw like 6.5TB of ssd in this thing (4 of it on NVME) and 64G of ram. which ill never use but it ensures that I will never have to touch any of that shit ever again.

Also my last setup... I was 150% skinflint on a lot of the external stuff I had Yamaha speakers I had that were literally 20 yrs old that I got in a trade, the housings are yellow because of the plastic deteriorating... lol... and a 24" dell monitor that I got used, etc. It was time for a refresh, and I decided to just do everything for once.
 
Beats the f*** out of me.

My last PC (the one that died) was $3,500 back in 2015 not including my monitors nor the same 2.1 Klipsch system you probably have.

My belief is I’m throwing Origin PC $1,000 above cost. But, They have an 800 number vs. If had to troubleshoot something I’d be curled over in cables next to 15 IPAs.

I know what I can and can’t do in this life.

Honestly if you f*** something up its going to be at build time, if done right they will just run otherwise.

It is weird I have friends who know better but still will throw alienware or whoever it is $600-1500 or more so they can "feel good" about it but I'd rather take that cash and just
save it and self-insure with it. Then again I get it, if you dont hbave the time. etc... and if you use it for other shit.

Like if the box I have dies for some reason I can leave it idle for 2 months until I get around to it. Others dont have that luxury. (I only have a half dozen or more machines I can use as a backup, hell even my old gaming rig will sub for this thing in a pinch 99% of the time, it just dont look as nice).

But... come to think of it..... outside of that f***ing AMD box from like 2005? or whenever it was... ive never had any of the boxes after that give me serious issues, at least not ones I didnt cause... they otherwise just ran. (I did burn out the entire USB bus on one computer, but that was my fault, lmao.... Counterstrike 1.2 lmao f*** that game).
 
🤣

I’m laughing because I online built this full skinflint rig. Gonna go see how far I can ram my fist into my own ass, brb.

What an a**h*** I am.
I stopped getting towers several years back. Been using laptops since then (starting around 2015). Easy to get something with good power levels, including GeForce GPUs, RAM, drive speeds (easy with SSD offerings) and such. I'm currently sporting a Lenovo X1 Extreme Gen4 connected to a pair of 27" 4k screens (LT screen is also 4k).
I run this when working (work provides a laptop too) and can look at other things that the work VPN blocks (bastards) and keep the work computer clean of all other things (better off NOT trying to put anything of my own on that due to policies and crap). With a LT, I can have the work computer using the two external screens (connected via an USBC dock) and just run my personal LT with it's own screen.
You can get the high end i9 processors in these systems now (I went with the i7) and a GoForce RTX 3050Ti (4GB).

As for the case mouths getting Bubba'd,
I've run both standard and heavier buffers with standard BCGs in carbine length gas systems without that happening. At least not from the gun. I have a short upper build that has a light weght BCG along with standard buffer setup that's not had it happen either. I'd probably try going with an adjustable gas block before changing any other components on the upper. Install it set to go with full gas through and then reduce it one increment with each test. Try a range of ammo (all that you normally buy/make) to be sure it will run everything on the same setting. That way you don't need to worry about adjusting it when you change ammo.

I'm going through testing on my AR10 pistol build currently (12.5" barrel). Last week's range trip (week ago Friday) I had the gas block set too light (not letting enough through). I've since put it back to 'full gas' setting and plan to test tomorrow to see where to adjust it to make things solid. Enough gas to function on the ammo I have, but not much more than needed. I'll probably open it up one (or two) increments from it working just to be 'safe' for ammo variables. I do have one of the Armaspec stealth recoil spring items in the buffer tube for the build. Since I knew I'd be looking to do whatever possible to reduce felt recoil on a short 308 Winchester (carbine gas length) build.
 
Doesn’t seem to be power issue. Mouse, keyboard, monitors all dead. Has to be motherboard?

Well here are a few things....

Does the motherboard have video on it? For starters, yank the GPU out of the effing thing (politely) and plug a monitor into the OBV (whether its vga hdmi or whatever) try to start it

BTW partial power can still be a PSU thing. May be motherboard, too. Thats a shit deal if thats the case. Seems to be rare these days though.

Objectively my most common hardware field failures I witness are nearly always power supplies. It used to be HDDs but since SSDs came out, that killed that
off, except for cheapo SSDs which die like flies, lol.

If you can come to north central MA I can let you borrow a brand new 850W psu if you like. It's still sealed in the box. (something I clicked on and bought by accident, long story)
 
Well here are a few things....

Does the motherboard have video on it? For starters, yank the GPU out of the effing thing (politely) and plug a monitor into the OBV (whether its vga hdmi or whatever) try to start it

BTW partial power can still be a PSU thing. May be motherboard, too. Thats a shit deal if thats the case. Seems to be rare these days though.

Objectively my most common hardware field failures I witness are nearly always power supplies. It used to be HDDs but since SSDs came out, that killed that
off, except for cheapo SSDs which die like flies, lol.

If you can come to north central MA I can let you borrow a brand new 850W psu if you like. It's still sealed in the box. (something I clicked on and bought by accident, long story)
No video on motherboard from what my brain can decipher.

I just don’t think it’s a power supply problem. Last
Time I had a power supply issue it puffed smoke and gave zero power to the machine & that was circa 2005.

I also punched the side of the PC last night (the one with the mboard) when it wouldn’t boot. Might be applicable. A nice $4,000 punch. Felt good tho
 

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Would my max dbag lights be powering up if it was a power supply problem?

The fans are on too.
 
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No video on motherboard from what my brain can decipher.

I just don’t think it’s a power supply problem. Last
Time I had a power supply issue it puffed smoke and gave zero power to the machine & that was circa 2005.

I also punched the side of the PC last night (the one with the mboard) when it wouldn’t boot. Might be applicable. A nice $4,000 punch. Felt good tho

So you get whirr, but no POST beeps? (of course I realize these gaming mobo companies are all RGB faggots now and dont even make them do that anymore) sometimes theres a display on the motherboard that throws a code... the code can mean something
 
Would my max Fgt lights be powering up if it was a power supply problem?

The fans are on too.

If a rail was bad in the PSU you could have a bunch of other shit turn on but not boot. For example if something like low voltage rails (like 3.3 etc) were dead but 5 and 12 on? youd get all that shit you seeing there. I agree it is RARE for them to die like that, though.
 
I get nothing. I hit the power button and the fans spool up and it makes the usual noises but I get no power to any of the peripherals.

I mean it has to be a motherboard AIDS factory
 
I get nothing. I hit the power button and the fans spool up and it makes the usual noises but I get no power to any of the peripherals.

I mean it has to be a motherboard AIDS factory

So your mouse and keyboard that are supposed to light up, dont? well that can be that it just isnt posting, could still be mobo or the psu or the regulation on the mobo etc.

If it was me id be furiously checking all the power connections, unplug and reseat the mobo power, the RAM modules, and reseat the power to the GPU.
 
Here's a thought (for the computer issue)... Have you checked the battery on the mobo?? Change it out for a known good one just to rule it out. Cheap fix if that works.

Also, evict any/all dust bunnies from inside and any crap around/in ports on the thing.
 
No video on motherboard from what my brain can decipher.

I just don’t think it’s a power supply problem. Last
Time I had a power supply issue it puffed smoke and gave zero power to the machine & that was circa 2005.

I also punched the side of the PC last night (the one with the mboard) when it wouldn’t boot. Might be applicable. A nice $4,000 punch. Felt good tho

Is there a way you can tell if that stupid watercooler pump is running when you turned the power on?

The reason I mention this is some motherboards, will have a hard protect feature on them where everything STOPS if the rippems on the CPU fan header are zero... and if the mobo thinks the
pump or fan isnt running, it simply will refuse to fully POST. usually most arent that stupid where it displays nothing, but you never know
 
So your mouse and keyboard that are supposed to light up, dont? well that can be that it just isnt posting, could still be mobo or the psu or the regulation on the mobo etc.

If it was me id be furiously checking all the power connections, unplug and reseat the mobo power, the RAM modules, and reseat the power to the GPU.
Correct. I’ve swapped them all to different USBs too. And, in perfect fashion, I have a max dbag mechanical keyboard that shoots out al sorts of light usually. Motherboard giving me an upper decker.
 

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Sometimes when I shake things, they work afterwards. Have you tried shaking your PC?

View attachment 662965

I actually did have a 20"? (maybe 21"?) ACER crt in 1997 that required ABUSE for it to turn on. As it got worse and worse, it required more abuse for it to function.... I had to give it a good smack on the side for it to turn on.
 
I actually did have a 20"? (maybe 21"?) ACER crt in 1997 that required ABUSE for it to turn on. As it got worse and worse, it required more abuse for it to function.... I had to give it a good smack on the side for it to turn on.
the-fonz.gif
 
Is there a way you can tell if that stupid watercooler pump is running when you turned the power on?

The reason I mention this is some motherboards, will have a hard protect feature on them where everything STOPS if the rippems on the CPU fan header are zero... and if the mobo thinks the
pump or fan isnt running, it simply will refuse to fully POST. usually most arent that stupid where it displays nothing, but you never know
This is where we start wading into waters I know I can’t swim in.

No idea how to check the watercooler.
 
This is where we start wading into waters I know I can’t swim in

Basically there are plugs on the motherboard that power your fans. These plugs are not just power, but they have an extra wire that sends a pulse to the mobo to tell it how fast the fan or whatever is going. On a lot of water/air setups the RPM signal ends up being on that plug (CPU_FAN,. CPU_0, etc) if the mobo gets no RPM signal on that header it might fail to start unless its been trained/set to ignore it. (which no PC vendor is going to do that lol). in a lot of cases though the machine will start but then throw an error and shut the machine off... but in some implementations it would not shock me to find machines that wont let it start at all.
 
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