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Gun Vault Lock Question

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I am having a custom made, 1500 lb gun vault made, and I would like some input on the lock options I have (price is the same for option 1 & 2):

Option 1 - old school mechanical combo lock - tried and trusted, reliable, but SLOW (relatively speaking) to open when you're in a hurry
Option 2 - military grade EMP rated digital keypad lock - fast access but more prone to failure due to electronics

One concern, albeit remote, I have is what if the SHTF and the electronic lock craps out. I might not even be able to get a locksmith out to open the damn thing. No access to goodies when they could be most needed...

On the other hand, the electronic lock would allow MUCH quicker opening (mechanical lock requires lots of turns to open) if I have an emergency zombie invasion.

This is a once in a lifetime purchase that will be left to my kids. I am leaning towards the mechanical lock.

What would you do? Any comments or suggestions?

As always, thanks for your input.

Russ
 
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I would definitely prefer a mechanical/combo lock over an electronic lock. Just my $0.02.
 
Is there any kind of backup available if the electronic lock fails? Any way to have both?

On a more serious note, can I be adopted?
 
Is there any kind of backup available if the electronic lock fails? Any way to have both?

On a more serious note, can I be adopted?

Good questions.

Firstly - if electronic lock fails (and it is the only lock) = NO access to safe without locksmith intervention.

Yes - I could have both for an additional $400 BUT the electronic lock in the dual lock setup is NOT EMP tested or rated.

With regards to adoption, would you happen to be a female in your 20's, blonde with big tits?
 
i like the mechanical also. If you're really concerned about speed just leave it with one number left to input.
 
if you dont mind me asking, what does a purchase like this set you back? and how big are we talking.? I am sure I am not the only one wondering about that
 
if you dont mind me asking, what does a purchase like this set you back? and how big are we talking.? I am sure I am not the only one wondering about that

lol - I know I am curious

BTW, get the mechanical lock
 
if you dont mind me asking, what does a purchase like this set you back? and how big are we talking.? I am sure I am not the only one wondering about that

I really shouldn't answer this because I'm going to take a beating, but it seems to be my specialty here...

Safe is 72" x 30" x 28" with 1/2" bent body construction steel walls (no welds - solid steel except for top & bottom plate which are continuos weld) plus all kinds of other security/fire protection features I'd prefer not to divulge. It is setting me back north of $6000 including freight...

There are MUCH cheaper options for you in the big box or retail stores. You are usually dealing with 10-12 gauge steel skin with a lot of filler but it will suffice for a lot of people. There is a lot of smoke and mirror stuff in the safe/vault world. There are some really good education videos on Youtube that will help you sift through the gimmicks...
 
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Good questions.

Firstly - if electronic lock fails (and it is the only lock) = NO access to safe without locksmith intervention.

Yes - I could have both for an additional $400 BUT the electronic lock in the dual lock setup is NOT EMP tested or rated.

If there's an EMP that was strong enough to fry the lock in your house, you likely have bigger concerns. Having the mechanical backup would seem sufficient in that scenario, at least to me.

With regards to adoption, would you happen to be a female in your 20's, blonde with big tits?

No, no, and it's not the size that counts, right? [laugh]
 
i like the mechanical also. If you're really concerned about speed just leave it with one number left to input.

Better yet, what he should do is get a dial lock, or just put a "day lock" on the same door that just works with a key. that way if you're only going to be gone for a few minutes you can quickly lock the thing or open it later, etc. Then when you leave it alone for long periods of time you can just lock the main lock.

-Mike

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I really shouldn't answer this because I'm going to take a beating, but it seems to be my specialty here...

Safe is 72" x 30" x 28" with 1/2" bent body construction steel walls (no welds - solid steel except for top & bottom plate which are continuos weld) plus all kinds of other security/fire protection features I'd prefer not to divulge. It is setting me back north of $6000 including freight...

There are MUCH cheaper options for you in the big box or retail stores. You are usually dealing with 10-12 gauge steel skin with a lot of filler but it will suffice for a lot of people. There is a lot of smoke and mirror stuff in the safe/vault world. There are some really good education videos on Youtube that will help you sift through the gimmicks...

You can probably also pick up a TL rated plate safe for a lot less than $6000. Probably cost someone more to move it than it would to buy a used one.

-Mike
 
I remember an interview with a safe dealer/locksmith on mechanical vs electronic locks. His reply was pretty simple: "Sooner or later the electronic lock will fail". Mechanical locks are much more reliable. The mechanical lock on my Pro Steel safe has served me well for over 30 years so I am a believer.

I am, however, considering a new approach as my safe is in the cellar and I would like some form of storage in my bedroom. For about $400 you can get a safe that fits between the studs in a wall so that it can be flush mounted and easily concealed. I am thinking about such a safe mounted in my bedroom closet to hold a pistol or two and a shotgun. This safe could have some sort of quick access lock without causing too much problems if it failed (as long as it wasn't at just the wrong time!) as back up guns would be available in the main safe. Quick access or not, I think I will be installing a smaller less expensive safe in the bedroom.
 
Good questions.

Firstly - if electronic lock fails (and it is the only lock) = NO access to safe without locksmith intervention.

Yes - I could have both for an additional $400 BUT the electronic lock in the dual lock setup is NOT EMP tested or rated.

I would go for the dual lock deal. If there's an emp, you will have bigger probkems to be concerned with.
 
I have seen videos of safes with electronic locks with keys with a backup key incase of electronic failure, but it came from intraweb so take it for what it is
 
I was entrusted to buy a safe for somebody. It was a spin dial after talking with the guys at Eastern. My own is a electronic lock that has worked perfectly and gets medium duty use that also came from them. I realize it may break someday and that I will be an unhappy camper when it does but I'm prepared to open it like a spam can if needed.
 
I work with classified material, which obviously needs to be locked. The .gov standard is the electronic x09 or x10 locks. They suck and fail regularly with constant use indoors. I've also left the old mechanical safes outside (empty of course) for a couple years before getting rid of them and they still worked fine.

Get the mechanical, less frustration in the long run.
 
You have to ask yourself what the primary objective is

It sounds like you're highly concerned with theft if you're going to the extreme of having this custom made with such heavy steel

Compromises usually need to be made if there is a significant primary purpose

You made need to sacrifice the speed of entry for the theft security

That being said... I always prefer a mechanical lock instead of electronic. It's probably not as secure as a dial lock but can the custom fabricators add a simplex type of lock instead of a dial lock?


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