Anyone use this stuff that can give some feed-back on it? I just picked up a can to give it a try. It's the regular kind, not the synthetic safe one. Also, how do you go about using it? Do you just spray it, and wipe it off?
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GUN-SCRUBBER
- Thread starter Fsorrent
- Start date
I actually picked up a can of it the other day myslef at Wal-mart. I found it dries really quickly and you may or may not have time to wipe it off... it dosen't compare to an actual solvent but I'm sure you'll find SOME use for it like I did.
![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
Use it outdoors - I believe it's fairly toxic and you don't want to inhale it.
When I took an armorers course recently they told me it's basically brake cleaner which works just as well.
Also, I haven't used it for a long time. I don't really like it and feel it doesn't have any real advantages over a standard down-to-the-frame stripping and cleaning.
When I took an armorers course recently they told me it's basically brake cleaner which works just as well.
Also, I haven't used it for a long time. I don't really like it and feel it doesn't have any real advantages over a standard down-to-the-frame stripping and cleaning.
Agreed, this isn't the sythetitic safe version so I will do well to avoid anything plastic. I believe it does have acetone in it as an ingredient which is a big no no to plastic. Luckily the only plastic gun i have is a Glock, which only gets CLP so not worried too much about it. Would it be fine to use on an AR?
Use it as advertised and it is ok. It is best used on guns without any plastic. My friend uses it on his glock all the time with no problems. I used it on my Sig mosquito, being very careful NOT to get it on the plastic. Some got in the rail and turned those areas a slight grey. It took me forever to get it looking black again and i still dont think its 100%.
I will never use it on a gun with plastic again unless its the plastc safe stuff. Even on metal guns i think it is to harsh. I used it on my pocketlite when i first got it to get in all the tight spots real good. Just be careful with it, thats all.
I will never use it on a gun with plastic again unless its the plastc safe stuff. Even on metal guns i think it is to harsh. I used it on my pocketlite when i first got it to get in all the tight spots real good. Just be careful with it, thats all.
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That's what I've used it on and hated it. It's probably okay if you're re-assembling it and greasing the key parts and all. I found it left the lower too squeaky clean. Everything was dried out and nasty.
go to your local autoparts store and get some brake cleaner.
Same stuff, 1/3 the cost.
It cleans fantastic. Great for cleaning the inside moving parts of a revolver.
Same stuff, 1/3 the cost.
It cleans fantastic. Great for cleaning the inside moving parts of a revolver.
+1
I can't believe it took 12 posts for someone to recommend this.
Even better than the parts store, get it at Walmart. You can get 4 cans for the price of 1 can of Gun Scrubber. I use it on all my guns, including my Glocks with no problems.
Make sure it's brake (or brake parts) cleaner an not Carb cleaner or engine cleaner.
Sound advice, If i end up liking Gun Scrubber I'll have to check it out. The directions read, " use in short bursts sparingly" i'll test it out and see how it goes. I can see this being a real time saver for the Ruger MkIII
P-14
NES Member
I agree. I buy it at WalMart because its cheaper than the local parts store.
I only use it on my AK 47...and make sure you use it outside or in a well ventilated area. It's nasty shit and you don't want to be breathing it in.
Good to know!
Palladin
NES Member
I only use it outside also.......kills grass too!
![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
I use MPro7 and a brush to clean the frame/slide, then spray them liberally with brake cleaner to remove all of the loosened gunk. I shake the parts and blow some compressed air on them to evaporate the solvent, then re-lube. I do this on all of my revolvers and pistols, both plastic and metal.
I have a can of GS but rarely if ever use it. I use Mpro7 and sometimes Hoppes no 9, or sometimes both.
I only use GS for pain in the ass guns that I don't like taking apart, like my Ruger MKII and the AMT Back-Up .380 DAO I had. Now that I've dumped both of those guns, I rarely if ever reach for the can of GS.
And EddieCoyle is spot on- if you do like it, just get Brake Cleaner instead... same nasty shit, different can, way, way cheaper.![[grin]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/041.gif "Grin [grin]")
-Mike
I only use GS for pain in the ass guns that I don't like taking apart, like my Ruger MKII and the AMT Back-Up .380 DAO I had. Now that I've dumped both of those guns, I rarely if ever reach for the can of GS.
And EddieCoyle is spot on- if you do like it, just get Brake Cleaner instead... same nasty shit, different can, way, way cheaper.
-Mike
+1, this is the only way to go for the Ruger MKII/III unless you really enjoy puzzles that push your limits to the point you are contemplateing shooting the parts with another one of your firearms.
When I do the Sigs and Glocks at the shop I use Simple Green pretty much all the time.Works well on the sears trigger bars hammers,let them soak blow the parts off with air relube and reinstall,smells good also. Jim
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I find that the MPro7 does not do nearly as well. I only use it on sensitive finishes and use PowderBlast or Hoppes. Do you find that M7 works? Is there a trick to using it?
