Gun Safes

I've been looking into safes a lot lately. Went to eastern security... I'm not too impressed with Fort Knox. They're super expensive in comparison to other companies for equal ratings and have huge door gaps.

[video]https://youtu.be/KHCJzV8n4jU[/video]

I've been searching for another safe also, I was actually impressed with Fort Knox safes. The Fort Knox Titan was on my short list. Another one that I was considering was the Superior Supreme unfortunately the SU 45 wasn't going to fit and I didn't want the SU 35.
 
I've been searching for another safe also, I was actually impressed with Fort Knox safes. The Fort Knox Titan was on my short list. Another one that I was considering was the Superior Supreme unfortunately the SU 45 wasn't going to fit and I didn't want the SU 35.

I got a quote for a Ft Knox safe. The 7 gauge body 7241 with most of the bells and whistles was $6800. I found the same exact safe size, with better fire protection and 2 layers of 1/4" steel, for cheaper. And, it has 1/16" or less door to body gap...
 
I got a quote for a Ft Knox safe. The 7 gauge body 7241 with most of the bells and whistles was $6800. I found the same exact safe size, with better fire protection and 2 layers of 1/4" steel, for cheaper. And, it has 1/16" or less door to body gap...
Interesting. The Ft Knox rep at the 2015 Show Show told me the TL30 rates save, with dual locks (S&G dial and digital combo) was $6000, and it take a lot more than 7ga walls to rate TL30.
 
Interesting. The Ft Knox rep at the 2015 Show Show told me the TL30 rates save, with dual locks (S&G dial and digital combo) was $6000, and it take a lot more than 7ga walls to rate TL30.

Steel isnt everything. My tl30x6 probibly only has a 14 gauge skin, but 4" of ceramic matrix with screen mesh and carbide chucks in it. A lockout would be a tragedy....

*off topic*
I also wonder how easy glass plate breaks not from drilling but from somone pounding on it with a sledge hammer....theres a safety bolt that you install when moving/installing to prevent lockout incase the plate breaks. Im not sure how ruined safes are after a fire, but the small rope that connects the glass plate to the relocker will certainly melt causing a lockout.

When i got this safe they shorted me the glass plates and 3 way bolt work and tried to screw me out of it, they ended up making it right and having a pro fix it, it was kind of a bonus in the end....i got to watch the tech fully disassemble and reassemble everything.
 
Hey guys,

I figured I'd drop this link here. One of our new favorites - an edition of a Summit Rainier that we designed here in house.

7 Gauge Body,
Solid 1/4" Plate door,
Awesome bolt work designed by some of the leading dealers in the country
Tight 1/16" door gap.

I like Summit a lot - I think they have awesome integrity, quality, specifications for the money. These are the same guys that do the sliding gun racks.

https://www.northeastshooters.com/v...ride-6440-and-6430-Safe?p=5473277#post5473277

-Zach
 
Steel isnt everything. My tl30x6 probibly only has a 14 gauge skin, but 4" of ceramic matrix with screen mesh and carbide chucks in it. A lockout would be a tragedy....
That would definitely qualify as a "a lot more than 7ga steel" [rolleyes]\

As to lockouts;

It is a good move to take off the interior of the door and take a photo of the mechanism, with something to show scale (ruler taped to inside of safe). Manufacturers can vary the location of relockers, and original mfgs layout diagrams can be hard to come by even for certified SAVTA members. A diagram of the internals, with relocker locations, can vastly reduce the amount of drilling and or cutting needed to service a lockout or relocker triggering.
 
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If you're really limited to $1k I think you're better off getting a tool chest (example), bolting it down and putting a round padlock on it. It's not going to stop a determined thief but neither is anything else you'll buy at that price point. At least it doesn't look like a gun safe.

If you raise your budget to $2-2.5k then you do a lot better. I have a Sturdy Safe I'm very happy with.
 
If you're really limited to $1k I think you're better off getting a tool chest (example), bolting it down and putting a round padlock on it.]
Some tool chests have a recessed area for a conventional padlock that makes it impossible to access the shackle with bolt cutters or a saw. Paranoia level will determine if you get a Master, Medco or Abloy lock.

Great idea - when you upgrade to a safe, you'll still have a very useful tool chest.
 
Even though gang boxes have a thicker metal skin than most "safes" they are not more secure. Most tradesman have lost the keys at one point or another and have had to drill out a gang box. All you need is a battery drill and a few drill bits.
 
Even though gang boxes have a thicker metal skin than most "safes" they are not more secure. Most tradesman have lost the keys at one point or another and have had to drill out a gang box. All you need is a battery drill and a few drill bits.

I totally agreed, but different level of security for diffent things.
Most of the safes discussed in these threads are job boxes with sheetrock in them.
 
Even though gang boxes have a thicker metal skin than most "safes" they are not more secure. Most tradesman have lost the keys at one point or another and have had to drill out a gang box. All you need is a battery drill and a few drill bits.
I assume you are talking about drilling the padlock. This is why you store your tools inside the safe or jobbox. If you get a high end padlock like Medco, hardened anti drill pins, crescents and the sidebar will make drilling the lock a real pain. A Master can be done in a couple of minutes, probably using only one bit.

Most of the safes discussed in these threads are job boxes with sheetrock in them.
Nicely put.
 
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I agree that all safes at the 1000 dollar price point will only keep out the honest thieves. I would still advise against using a toolbox as a gun safe even if it is slightly better protected. I would hate to fill out a police report and mention that my gun collection was stolen from a toolbox and not a gun safe.
 
I agree that all safes at the 1000 dollar price point will only keep out the honest thieves. I would still advise against using a toolbox as a gun safe even if it is slightly better protected. I would hate to fill out a police report and mention that my gun collection was stolen from a toolbox and not a gun safe.

Why? It's completely legal. No need to make up more gun laws.
 
stolen from a toolbox and not a gun safe.
The police are trained in report writing skills; no reason a mere civilian cannot develop the same skill.

Do not report it as a "toolbox", but as a "locked metal security container".

And never report a gun stolen. Report a trigger lock stolen with a gun attached.
 
The police are trained in report writing skills; no reason a mere civilian cannot develop the same skill.

Do not report it as a "toolbox", but as a "locked metal security container".

And never report a gun stolen. Report a trigger lock stolen with a gun attached.

And the officer taking your report will simply write "gun stolen", defeating the purpose of your phrasing gymnastics.
 
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Here are my 2 not safes. I got them both from Tractor Supply both on Black Friday 1yr apart. 600ea. Regular price is 999ea. They look like safes so will scare off 99.9% of all bad guys. Steel is advertised as 10ga but I'd bet more like 18ga. I had to drill a hole in the back to run a wire and the steel was embarrassingly thin. 18v Mikita went through it so fast I hit my knuckles! ouch!

I do like the look of them and like having them better than not but if you want a real safe these are not it.

The locks do work great. I've never had one give me any problem whatsoever. They work perfect every time. The inside is big enough for all kinds of valuables.
 
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Here are my 2 not safes. I got them both from Tractor Supply both on Black Friday 1yr apart. 600ea. Regular price is 999ea. They look like safes so will scare off 99.9% of all bad guys. Steel is advertised as 10ga but I'd bet more like 18ga. I had to drill a hole in the back to run a wire and the steel was embarrassingly thin. 18v Mikita went through it so fast I hit my knuckles! ouch!

I do like the look of them and like having them better than not but if you want a real safe these are not it.

The locks do work great. I've never had one give me any problem whatsoever. They work perfect every time. The inside is big enough for all kinds of valuables.

Your safes should only be a layer of security, bolt them down, have an alarm and a couple of dogs, that would make you a non victim.
 
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Your safes should only be a layer of security, bolt them down, have an alarm and a couple of dogs would make you a non victim.
I know several people were burgled. The ones that had tin can safes did not lose any guns. The one who did lose guns now owns a tin can safe [smile]
 
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Here are my 2 not safes. I got them both from Tractor Supply both on Black Friday 1yr apart. 600ea. Regular price is 999ea. They look like safes so will scare off 99.9% of all bad guys. Steel is advertised as 10ga but I'd bet more like 18ga. I had to drill a hole in the back to run a wire and the steel was embarrassingly thin. 18v Mikita went through it so fast I hit my knuckles! ouch!

I do like the look of them and like having them better than not but if you want a real safe these are not it.

The locks do work great. I've never had one give me any problem whatsoever. They work perfect every time. The inside is big enough for all kinds of valuables.

Im not sure how long youve had yours, i have two like yours and two of the larger size.the digital lock on these are absolute trash.not one of them works properly.that said i do like the size, look of the "safe"
There price point isn bad, and i knew what i was getting. We also did black friday or the christmas/newyear sale.

I wouldnt put anything very valuable in them though... they are rediculiously easy to move before full and have to be bolted down for the illusion of security.
 
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Any guns stolen in my town are going to trigger a all out Investigation with waterboarding and maybe a naked pyramid thrown in for good measure. And my family and I will be on the receiving end of that torture. I can hear it now" Why did you secure your firearms in a toolbox?" "Gun safes are tax exempt in Mass for a reason" blah blah blah.

"a trigger lock stolen with a gun attached" That's good I will have to remember that one.
 
Im not sure how long youve had yours, i have two like yours and two of the larger size.the digital lock on these are absolute trash.not one of them works properly.that said i do like the size, look of the "safe"
There price point isn bad, and i knew what i was getting. We also did black friday or the christmas/newyear sale.

I wouldnt put anything very valuable in them though... they are rediculiously easy to move before full and have to be bolted down for the illusion of security.

Wow? The one thing I really like about my safes is that the locks work so WELL! I've never had any problem, not even once. I tap in the combo and the handle turns just like you think it should. The locking system seems to me where they put the money. It sure wasn't in steel. What happens to your locks that their not good? If I ever had a problem I'd rip the guts out of the lock and put on a good pad lock. I have no patience for not being able to get at my stuff.
 
I do know that Cannon Safe's idea of a lifetime warranty on the electronic lock is "We will send you a new lock; being locked out is your problem; you will get no help from us."

That being said, the 21 year old LaGard electronic lock on one of my safes is still working very nicely.
 
I have a warrantte replacement lock they sent me i have yet to install it ...if 4 out of 4 sucked i didnt see the point in putting another of the same in there.

you enter the code and it doesnt unlock.. i think you get 3? Trys then your locked out for X amount of min (15min) and you get to try again... the problems getting worse.. at first you might get it in the first 3 tries, now it rarely happens, once it takes 9 tries every time.. 45min wait time..im going to gave to do something.
l have many duplicate setups for handgun and rifle..so ive resorted to spreading them amongst the safes so if one is stuborn i just get another loadout from another safe. It just sucks when im quickly trying to acces a certain thing for a quick project or info to research online..my other temp solution was to get more safes with different lock options.

Its is a shitty spot to be in beause i dont really want to pay for and change 4 locks on shit safes when perhaps 2 better ones would have been the way to go.. but i need room and in just trying to keep everything legal.


I tried to get the safes i have with s&g dials on them but if i did that i wouldnt get the sale price so it was no different then buy them on sale and buying better locks if needed....which is what will end up happening at somepoint..

Also i didnt have to drill holes in mine they have a cord, usbs and recepticals in them.....maybe mine are newer or slightly different model
 
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I posted this same response in another "gun safe" discussion on this forum - not a bad safe for the $$$...

I just bought this safe today at Tractor Supply on sale until April 2nd for $650.00 - regular price is $700.00. It's great for my needs and price point as I cannot justify spending over $1,000.00 to store my firearms. The model number is Winchester TS-22-BLK and is supposed hold up to 26 long guns and 4 pistols but you can configure the shelving in a number of different ways to accommodate your requirements. It has a pretty good fire rating of 45 minutes at 1,700*F.

Overall dimensions are 59" H x 30" W x 22" D. Remember what the wise, old Chinese man said - "You can always make the big wok small, but you can never make the small wok big..." Buy a bit larger than you think you need right now because you will most likely need the space in the future!

Here's the link if you're interested:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...lectronic-lock

Winchester TS-22-BLK, 26 Gun Safe

My boss at work has this same safe. Two weeks ago he was selling me one of his AR's and he typed the code in to let him in. Well long story short but some mechanism inside the lock snapped inside when it was trying to disengage. He called Winchester. Winchester sent out a local locksmith (Leominster area) to try to get inside. The Winchester certified locksmith shows up and sees this safe. Told my boss flat out this is a garbage safe and awful lock. He said he has already this year had to break into 4 of those safes. Guess the rods they use are hollow steel (I think that's what he said) and break all the time.

So anyways the guy tries to get the lock to work and I guess the whole thing is broken. Guy has to torch the hinges off and basically break the safe open. Problem is is that my bosses oil tank is within 5 feet of the safe so the Leominster fire department said he can't torch it. The guy has to go through the side and try to cut into it that way. That is suppose to happen Wednesday this week.

Winchester will replace the safe with the exact model so at least he will get something but he really doesn't even want it back after this shit show
 
Winchester will replace the safe with the exact model so at least he will get something but he really doesn't even want it back after this shit show

A S&G combination lock can be had for about $100. If you buy one used, you may need a new dial shaft as this is cut to length during installation, and you will need a new spline key to complete the installation.

Avoid the S&G 6741. It has a wider tolerance (+/- 1.25 rather than +/- 0.5) on each digit and uses Zymac (a turd polishing name for a cheap zinc alloy) rather than brass wheels. The 6730 is the workhorse Group 2 S&G dial lock. The 6630 is the 2m version - a bit more complicated internally, and has the Group 2m rather than Group 2 rating. (Yeah, I know the S&G site says Group 2 for this lock, but it's 2m unless the rating was downgraded).

Just make sure your safe uses a retracting style bolt rather than a swing bolt before replacing it with one of these.

If you safe uses a swing bolt, Securam makes an interesting lock that combines electronic pushbutton access with a reundant dial mecanism. (Actually, I recognized the linguistinc goof In that sentence, because Securam still makes this lock no matter what kind of bolt your safe uses).

Guess the rods they use are hollow steel (I think that's what he said) and break all the time.
Always make sure your safe handle is turned all the way to the unlocked position (counter clockwise) so the locking mechanism will not rest against the bolt. The prevents "bolt side pressure" that causes additional strain on the motor that retracts the bolt.
 
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