Gun Safe Humidity Control

[Another_David]

Obviously, the lower, the better. What are the generally accepted humidity level parameters for storage?

Wow, thread-Resurrection. NO, lower is not always better, especially if you have wood on your guns, which can dry and crack. Somewhere there's a link to a historian that maybe LenS (??) posted years ago talking about this.

But roughly speaking you want the RH in the comfort level of 40 to 60%. It's not always possible for sure but that's the target.

 

[Kevin_NH]

Rather than a goldenrod, you could pretty much install any electric devices that consumes 10-15 watts in the bottom of the safe and just leave it running 24x7 to get the same effect.

I've heard of folk installing an Apple Time Capsule on the floor of their safe; great for data backup, though of course the wireless networking won't work and you'll have to run an ethernet cord into the safe

 

[strangenh]

That's right. The waste heat from any useful device is all you need to offset the dew point. The Goldenrods are great because they are inexpensive and use all their (low) power consumption to dump heat into the safe in a way that can't get hot enough to damage anything (let alone start a fire).

 

[OfficerObie59]

I was just researching this thread as I prepare to install a safe in my basement which tends to be a bit moist at times.

Anyone else have any additional advice?

 

[Another_David]

I was just researching this thread as I prepare to install a safe in my basement which tends to be a bit moist at times.

Anyone else have any additional advice?

there's another thread somewhere talking about safes and basements. use your google fu but one thing that was mention is to insulate between the safe bottom and the concrete floor to prevent corrosion and heat transfer (the cold floor making your safe floor cold, where moisture will condense)

EDIT: http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...-way-to-secure-a-gun-safe-to-a-concrete-floor

 

[HTRN]

there's another thread somewhere talking about safes and basements. use your google fu but one thing that was mention is to insulate between the safe bottom and the concrete floor to prevent corrosion and heat transfer (the cold floor making your safe floor cold, where moisture will condense)

Hockey pucks work great to seperate the safe from the ground.
I buy dessicants at bjs in the auto section.

Sent from my mobile device, please excuse typos and brevity.

 

[sig2009]

That's right. The waste heat from any useful device is all you need to offset the dew point. The Goldenrods are great because they are inexpensive and use all their (low) power consumption to dump heat into the safe in a way that can't get hot enough to damage anything (let alone start a fire).

Only problem with that statement is that you can still have humidity with heat!

 

[peteyb]

Hockey pucks are definitely a good idea HTRN. I just build a wooden pallot that I was sure would distribute the weight evenly and it has worked perfectly for me, granted its not a very heavy safe. It is in my basement and I do not have a goldenrod, but I do have one of those rechargeable Eva-Dry's in there along with a humidity meter.

I have to say the Eva-Dry does keep the humidity in my safe right around 60, where as when it gets a little over saturated Ive seen my safe get up to 65 until I recharge the unit (I never let it get even close to fully saturated tho). Ive never tested the levels without the Eva-Dry but Im willing to bet it makes a decent difference. The biggest difference though is running a regular de-humidifier near your safe for close to 20 hours a day. I also always coat all of my firearms with CLP once the summer starts, and then obviously after any time I shoot them and have had no problems with rust. During bad days Ive had levels up to 85 when someone in my house leaves a window open in the basement on an extremely humid day , but no problems here. YMMV

ETA Also, I usually do an air change in the basement when the outside humidity is lower than the humidity in the basement.

 

[HTRN]

Credit for the hockeypucks goes to noddaduma.


Sent from my mobile device, please excuse typos and brevity.

 

[strangenh]

Only problem with that statement is that you can still have humidity with heat!

Yes. Do you not understand what relative humidity means? Or what dew point is?

 

[Thedub88]

I cant remember where i heard this. There is a brand of kitty litter that is silica. Fill up socks or sew some bags. I think it was $30 for 12 pounds.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Another_David]

ETA Also, I usually do an air change in the basement when the outside humidity is lower than the humidity in the basement.

Be careful with that. You never want to vent your basement when the floor is cooler than the outside air, which it almost always is in summer. The cooler floor will condense the water from the outside, even if it is only 50% RH outside. Once that 85 F air hits the floor at 65 F the RH is going to shoot up to near saturation and form water on your floor. Likewise, your water pipes will start to sweat.

It's a very common misconception to vent a moldy basement in summer. It may smell better while you're doing it but most often you're just pumping in more water that's going to make it worse.

Best thing to do is run a dehumidifier and make sure your basement windows are clear (clean, no bushes blocking, not boarded up), that little bit of sunlight helps a lot to warm up the space. Also, I don't keep anything made of fabric or cardboard in my basement. I bought a bunch of plastic bins and they work great to store junk.

 

[OfficerObie59]

While I like the hockey puck idea, I was planning on lagging the safe to the cement floor using 3/8 lags and lag sheilds. I suppose I could drill a hole through the puck, but it seems the lag bolt render moot the idea of keeping metal and cement from contacting each other.

 

[icyclefar]

While I like the hockey puck idea, I was planning on lagging the safe to the cement floor using 3/8 lags and lag sheilds. I suppose I could drill a hole through the puck, but it seems the lag bolt render moot the idea of keeping metal and cement from contacting each other.

You'll never transfer enough cooling through a few lag bolts to have to worry about it.

Keeping the body of the safe from contacting the floor or walls is more than enough, and if you have a "serious safe" with a decent fire rating, it's insulated pretty good to begin with.

 

[Another_David]

You'll never transfer enough cooling through a few lag bolts to have to worry about it.

Keeping the body of the safe from contacting the floor or walls is more than enough, and if you have a "serious safe" with a decent fire rating, it's insulated pretty good to begin with.

I agree but if one wanted to get crazy about it they make plastic insulating washers that have a little rib that fits into the hole.

 

[Carnea]

Goldenrod.