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Gun safe fail

snax

snax

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So this guy cuts open a gun safe easily. What I'm surprised about is the fact that it's lined with drywall. That's the 'fire protection'. I guess I'll line my cheap stack ons with 5/8 firecode from the depot


[video=youtube_share;l-9vWa-C44I]http://youtu.be/l-9vWa-C44I[/video]
 
Those videos are great for people that are law abiding as informational videos, but super dangerous because they give easy info to the boys "just about to turn their lives around" on how to get into these "safes"![rolleyes] WTF, most of the smash and grab guys wouldn't know that a cutoff wheel setup like that existed, let alone how to use it! It was so nice that the guy even told them it was only $8 at HF! I've obviously known about this situation for many years, but I'm also not the guy that you need to worry about. [rolleyes]
 
BostonBullit said:
firewall is a standard fire insulation in safes...the message of this video should be "don't buy 14ga safes"
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, that same technique can, and will breach even expensive safes made of heavier steel, it just takes more time, and a few more abrasive wheels, as they wear down quicker on heavier steel. The reality is that no matter how heavy, and impregnable the door may be, they all use thinner gauge material for the sides, it just may be 3/16", instead of 14 gauge for example.
 
I leave a large angle grinder plugged in right next to my safe. But for some reason the blade has several large cracks that are very hard to see. I took the guard off to get a better look and just haven't got around to fixing it.
 
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DPR said:
I leave a large angle grinder plugged in right next to my safe. But for some reason the blade has several large cracks that are very hard to see. I took the guard off to get a better look and just haven't got around to fixing it.
Click to expand...

[rofl] Nothing hurts like sections of those blades flying of and hitting you at 12k+ rpm
 
DPR said:
I leave a large angle grinder plugged in right next to my safe. But for some reason the blade has several large cracks that are very hard to see. I took the guard off to get a better look and just haven't got around to fixing it.
Click to expand...

I have one plugged in in my garage on my welding work bench, actually its the same one in the video. frack
 
Most gun safes are giant fire safes with no security rating, not sure how this is a surprise. If you get an actual UL rated burglary safe, they weigh tons not pounds.
 
Everyone knows there are weak points on almost any safe you would buy and as such you should have layers of protection. For example....real good locks and doors on your house, safe, dog, alarm with motion detection (you can even put a sensor on your safe in case it is moved for them to work easier like this guy did), motion lights, video surveillance....obviously it would cost a lot to have all these things but you can pick and choose the right combo that you think will get the job done.

One additional layer would be to lag your safe to the floor and wall and build it into a locking closet. If you have an alarm this would result in the robber taking more time to access the area of the safe he or she wants to work on or try to open.
.
Most alarm systems have certain zones where you have seconds before the alarm sounds in order to allow the home owner time to deactivate before the tripping of the alarm. Other zones trip instantly when breached. This guy said he could get in that safe in under 5 minutes. But how long it takes him to find it and access it all work in your favor when you have an alarm; assuming he can't bypass the alarm.

The safe is nice, but you want to deter any attempt at a break-in. if you do that successfully it won't matter much the quality of your safe. If you have an alarm company sign out front or somewhere conspicuous most would be home intruders will opt to pick an easier less risky target. if they know you have guns and that's the target for them....well...then layering the security is the way to go.


If you really want to frustrate a them or prevent or slow down the grinding wheel process then you should look here...

http://www.sportsmansteelsafes.com/best-gun-safe.html



[video=youtube_share;hDr420N9KOA]http://youtu.be/hDr420N9KOA[/video]




[FONT=&amp]12 Reasons the Iron American are
"The Best Gun Safes in the USA"



[/FONT]​

  • [FONT=&amp]DOUBLE 1/4" STEEL BODY[/FONT] - That's right, our Iron American has two layers of 1/4" steel. An inner layer and an outer layer, making it the thickest gun safe in U.S. history. It's especially impressive since 90% of gun safes only have 1/8" steel bodies. That means our steel bodies are 4x thicker than most gun safes.

  • [FONT=&amp]Dual-Locks with 5 Re-lockers[/FONT] - Most competitors have one lock with a single relocker. Ours have two security locks with 4 relockers. That's 10 Times the Drill Points as our competitors.

  • [FONT=&amp]3" Step Door (Total Thickness 6")[/FONT] - Others have Flat Doors that seal on one level during fires. Our Step Door has steps that seal on five levels! And our 6" thick door hold twice as much fire-proofing.

  • [FONT=&amp]8-Layer Fire Systems[/FONT] - Most Manufacturers usually use One or Two Layers of Drywall. Our Iron American Series has 8 layers! Concrete fireproofing - 4 x more fire resistant than fire board, 3 layers of U.L. fire board and a double steel body.

  • [FONT=&amp]Concrete fireproofing[/FONT] - 4x more fire resistant than fire board - 99% of manufacturers have drywall for fireproofing. They call it "fireboard." We offer Concrete Fireboard that is four times more fireproof and much heavier than standard fireboard.

  • [FONT=&amp]5-Point Sealing Step Door[/FONT] - 99% of other Manufacturers doors only seal on one level with Flat Doors. Our "Jig-Saw" doors fit into 3/4" puzzle frames giving them a 5-point seal. Just like a door on a bank vault!

  • [FONT=&amp]3/4" Steel Bolt Protectors[/FONT] - Most manufacturers have thin frames that Protect their Bolts. Which makes them Easy to Pry. Our frames are 3/4" thick. Our Iron American Series have never been pried - EVER!

  • [FONT=&amp]4 Barrel Relockers[/FONT] - Most relockers are the size of "sugar cubes." Our 4 barrel relockers are 1" x 4" OF SOLID STEEL. That's 20-30 times the relocking strength. Zero drill-outs in 35 years. Not even a Safesmith has drilled open our 4 barrel relockers on repairs without our help. Simply the best!

  • [FONT=&amp]Double Steel Body[/FONT] - 99% of Gun Safes Have Single Steel Bodies - Our Iron American Series has Double Steel. This acts as a second heat barrier during a fire. It's the way all real T.L. rated bank vaults are constructed.

  • [FONT=&amp]Double the Weight[/FONT] - Our Iron American Series Weigh Twice Our Competitors! Where a typical 60"x40"x28" gun vault weighs 600lbs, ours weighs over 1200 lbs. Weight is a great indicator of quality.

  • [FONT=&amp]Hard Plate in Our Doors[/FONT] - There's 1 1/2" Solid Steel in front of the Locks & Relockers.

  • [FONT=&amp]We're American Made[/FONT] - Other security safes that claim to be the best gun safe are made overseas.
 
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i've always said my safe keeps out the casual village thug, not the professional. but they want to spend as little time in your house as possible and for sure not being trapped with one way out by being down your cellar or on a second floor while an armed homeowner comes in.
 
Oh, and as easily as an angle grinder gets into light safes, a plasma torch will cut a UL rated safe like butter. They aren't stupid out of reach like they once were, $6-700 will get you in the door (pun intended).
 
5 DOLLAR FOOT LONG said:
IF a guys in your house and has 20 min to screw around unimpeded by anyone I think you have bigger problems.
Click to expand...

Exactly!

A safe or even a lock box has to be only one part of a security system.

- Safe
- Dog
- Monitored alarm system
- Cameras
- Etc.

In most towns (likely not so in Boston) after an alarm trips the PD should be there in ~6 minutes.

Thieves don't really want to hang around someone's house for 20-30 minutes, too much risk of getting caught. So they are usually smash and grab perps.

Yes, there is always an exception to the general rule. That's what the moat and alligators are for! [smile]
 
CharlieFoxtrot said:
That is why I have a gun room rather than a gun safe.
Click to expand...

What happens when they try to take it to a second location to break in?

Moving-A-House%20jpg.jpg
 
5 DOLLAR FOOT LONG said:
IF a guys in your house and has 20 min to screw around unimpeded by anyone I think you have bigger problems.
Click to expand...
I talked to a local locksmith who does a lot of safes and asked him how many had been broken into. "Zero."

He said most safe robberies are at cash businesses and are insider jobs.
 
I always tell people Safes are for keeping the honest, honest. A pro will get into it or take the whole damned thing and deal with it off site.

I also hear "That safe is junk. They use drywall on the inside." Yeah, no shit, if you want a fire rating on it. I also explain if they look into higher end safes they will find they get higher fire ratings by adding additional layers of 5/8ths drywall.

Here is an explanation http://www.deansafe.com/fire-ratings-in-home-safes-and-gun-safes.html
 
BostonBullit said:
firewall is a standard fire insulation in safes...the message of this video should be "don't buy 14ga safes"
Click to expand...

Terminator03 said:
For what it's worth, that same technique can, and will breach even expensive safes made of heavier steel, it just takes more time, and a few more abrasive wheels, as they wear down quicker on heavier steel. The reality is that no matter how heavy, and impregnable the door may be, they all use thinner gauge material for the sides, it just may be 3/16", instead of 14 gauge for example.
Click to expand...


Steel thickness is irrelevant to the quality of a safe, and higher end safes may only take 30 min of "tool time" to breach.. time measured only time tools are contacting the safe, not accounting for blade changes ect.

Good safes use modern protection.. even with a 14 gauge skin and 4" of carbine,composite,ceramic matrix could be breached by anyone given enough time..it would hardly be easy or quick.

These modern safes also weight 1000s of pounds..even with substantial weight and being bolted to the floor.unless a footing was pour for the safe it would take very little time to sledghammer the floor, push the safe onto rollers and roll it out.
Fortunately loading and hauling requires a profesional theif.


If you ever installed such a safe itmakes it ovious how easy it would be to steel it, you dont even have to worry about damaging the house if it isnt yours
 
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I saw that video pop up on you tube but didn't watch it as I figured that would be the scenerio. I've had people say that they could get into a gun safe with ease but I replied yes you probably could but that takes time,time you might or might not have. Any decent safe is a detergent your average B+E guy isn't going to bother with it and I suspect most here don't have to worry about a professional burglar breaking in as most of us aren't millionaires with lots of expensive goodies hanging around
 
I have mine in my closet with walls on 2 sides, also it's a small closet (though deep) making getting to it very difficult. It's also bolted to the floor studs and wall joists, making access to it very difficult. From what I've researched and as others have said, securing it properly to avoid tipping it over is one of the best methods to prevent them from gaining access to it. Other than putting in a massive safe that the floor couldn't support (nor my wallet), It's there to keep the honest people out, but at least it's hidden out of sight.
 
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5 DOLLAR FOOT LONG said:
IF a guys in your house and has 20 min to screw around unimpeded by anyone I think you have bigger problems.
Click to expand...
The commercial standard of TL30 is only rated for 30 minutes protection against tools that can be carried by one person.

It's amusing to see gun safe companies put on demos of how "secure" their product is by either attacking it with a crowbar or banging on it with a sledgehammer. There is a reason nobody demos with angle grinders.
 
Rob Boudrie said:
The commercial standard of TL30 is only rated for 30 minutes protection against tools that can be carried by one person.

It's amusing to see gun safe companies put on demos of how "secure" their product is by either attacking it with a crowbar or banging on it with a sledgehammer. There is a reason nobody demos with angle grinders.
Click to expand...


Or a simple circular saw.
 
they have blades for power tools these days that can pretty much cut anything. As mentioned above by many, layering your security is the best deterrent.
 
Terminator03 said:
Those videos are great for people that are law abiding as informational videos, but super dangerous because they give easy info to the boys "just about to turn their lives around" on how to get into these "safes"![rolleyes] WTF, most of the smash and grab guys wouldn't know that a cutoff wheel setup like that existed, let alone how to use it! It was so nice that the guy even told them it was only $8 at HF! I've obviously known about this situation for many years, but I'm also not the guy that you need to worry about. [rolleyes]
Click to expand...

You're right. Because every burglar comes in with a grinder, face-shield, ladder and 20-30 minutes to cut the side of your safe off.

Criminals are dumb. They don't watch Youtube. They watch Jerry Springer.
 

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