Grading System

Patriot

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Does anyone know where I can get the grading system that I see from
time to time on posts relative to the quality of the firearm? I think that
it would be nice to have this available in the classified section as a
reminder to people just what excellent etc. means when advertising
a firearm for sale.

Thanks,

TBP
 
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Here's what the NRA says.

NRA Grades Explained

The following standards were set forth by the NRA for describing the condition of an antique firearm. The NRA officially calls these their "Condition Standards for Antique Firearms". This same grading system can be applied to modern firearms as well. We ask that you use this system when listing your firearms.

Unspecified - The condition of the item was not specified by the seller.

Factory New - all original parts; 100% original finish; in perfect condition in every respect, inside and out.

Excellent - all original parts; over 80% original finish; sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood; unmarred wood; fine bore.

Fine - all original parts; 30% to 80% original finish; sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood; minor marks in wood, good bore.

Very Good - all original parts; none to 30% original finish; original metal surfaces smooth with all edges sharp; clear lettering, numerals and design on metal; wood slightly scratched or bruised; bore disregarded for collectors firearms.

Good - some minor replacement parts; metal smoothly rusted or lightly pitted in places, cleaned or reblued; principal lettering, numerals and design on metal legible; wood refinished, scratched, bruised or minor cracks repaired; in good working order.

Fair - some major parts replaced; minor replacement parts may be required; metal rusted, may be lightly pitted all over, vigorously cleaned or reblued; rounded edges of metal and wood; principal lettering, numerals and design on metal partly obliterated; wood scratched, bruised, cracked or repaired where broken; in fair working order or can be easily repaired and placed in working order.

Poor - major and minor parts replaced; major replacement parts required and extensive restoration needed; metal deeply pitted; principal lettering, numerals and design obliterated; wood badly scratched, bruised, cracked or broken; mechanically inoperative; generally undesirable as a collectors firearm
 

JonJ

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Grading system on not, I asked specific questions. Grading systems can be too subjective.
 
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Anybody that has bought from certain distributors, like Century back a decade or 4 ago, will remember that the grading system is a joke sometimes. Pics and questions work best.
 

Patriot

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Nickle said:
Anybody that has bought from certain distributors, like Century back a decade or 4 ago, will remember that the grading system is a joke sometimes. Pics and questions work best.
Pics are not always a good measure. Getting someone to establish the
condition of what they are selling gives me a benchmark to evaluate that
which I made an offer on. If it is anything less than what was established
as the condition of the firearm, I am in absolutely under no obligation to
buy. This is especially true in a FTF transaction. Your experience (questions)
would also be appreciated. Like I said in the previous message, I am a good
learner.

Thanks,

TBP
 

JonJ

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I buy rifles.
I ask about bore condition: bright, dark, rusty, pitted. Sharpness of the rifling. Counterbored.
Metal finish: original, color, rust, pitting, wear.
Wood: finish original, splits, cracks, repairs.
Any modifications at all.
Most guys that buy/sell/collect will allow a 3 day non firing inspection. If they won't I'll try and knock them down on a price or pass. Most of the time I'm satisfied enough with lots of pics and the answers I get to my questions.
 
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Pics are a start. Questions about the condition of the bore, Throat Erosion (TE) and Muzzle Wear (M1) measurements of M14's and M1 Garand's are important.

Insist on a 3 day turnaround (applies to C&R or FFL purchases) if unsatisfactory. This is pretty much standard.

On a FTF, bring your own bore light, and TE and muzzle wear gages as appropriate. If you don't have a muzzle wear gage, bring a loaded round, and check to see if it will slide fully into the muzzle (not scientific, but is an indicator).
 
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Another thing. It behooves you to have the info you need ahead of time to make sure the gun is what they say it is. I've seen a BIG problem with Mosin Nagants being misrepresented (their problem, it was a more desirable gun than represented). Be careful of fake sniper items. This is a BIG problem on eBay.

Know the value of the gun. I've picked up 2 Finnish Mosin Nagants, one for $25, the other for $65. Each of these guns are worth over $200 each. Catch my drift?
 

KMaurer

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You can't always rely on these grading standards when buying a used firearm, but please try to adhere to them when posting one here for sale or trade.




NRA Standards of condition for modern firearms

NEW: Not previously sold at retail, in same condition as current factory production.

NEW DISCONTINUED: Same as NEW, but discontinued model.

PERFECT: In new condition in every respect. Sometimes referred to as "mint".

EXCELLENT: New condition, used very little, no noticeable marring of wood or metal, bluing perfect (except at muzzle or sharp edges).

VERY GOOD: In perfect working condition, no appreciable wear on working surfaces, no corrosion or pitting, only minor surface dents or scratches.

GOOD: In safe working condition, minor wear on working surfaces, no broken parts, no corrosion or pitting that will interfere with proper functioning.

FAIR: In safe working condition, but well worn, perhaps requiring replacement of minor parts or adjustments, that should be indicated in advertisement; no rust, but may have corrosion pits that do render the gun unsafe or inoperable.

POOR: Badly worn, rusty and battered, perhaps requiring major adjustment or repairs to place in operating condition.




NRA standards of condition for antique firearms

FACTORY NEW: All original parts, 100% original finish, in perfect condition in every respect, inside and out.

EXCELLENT: All original parts, over 80% original finish, sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood, minor marks in wood, good bore.

FINE: All original parts, over 30% original finish, sharp lettering, numerals and design on metal and wood, minor marks in wood, good bore.

VERY GOOD: all original parts, none to 30% original finish, original metal surfaces smooth with all edges sharp, clear lettering, numerals and design on metal, wood slightly scratched or bruised, bore disregarded for collectors firearms.

GOOD: Some minor replacement parts, metal smoothly rusted or lightly pitted in places, cleaned or reblued, principal lettering, numerals and design on metal legible, wood refinished, scratched, bruised or minor cracks repaired, in good working order.

FAIR: Some major parts replaced, minor replacement parts may be required, metal rusted, may be lightly pitted all over, vigorously cleaned or reblued, rounded edges of metal and wood, principal lettering, numerals and design on metal partly obliterated, wood scratched, bruised, cracked or repaired where broken, in fair working order or can be easily repaired and placed in working order.

POOR: Major and minor parts replaced, major replacement parts required and extensive restoration needed, metal deeply pitted, principal lettering, numerals and design obliterated, wood badly scratched, bruised, cracked or broken, mechanically inoperative, generally undesirable as a collectors firearm.

 
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