Glock 29 (10mm) ammo problems?

In God We Trust

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I've had a Glock 29 for a while now and when I first bought it, it would not cycle all the way back into battery after each shot. I tried a different kind of ammo (can't remember what either brand was.) but got the same result. So I threw it in the safe and figured I'd deal with it later.

Now almost three years later, I finally dig it out and go to the range with a couple of fresh boxes of good ammo. It works fine. Cycles perfectly. Obviously my problem was the ammo (?) but it seems strange to me because I have a few other Glocks and they eat anything I have fed them with no issue.

Anyone ever had problems with a 10mm Glock eating certain ammo? Any brands I should avoid or that you recommend?
 
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I've had a Glock 29 for a while now and when I first bought it, it would not cycle all the way back into battery after each shot. I tried a different kind of ammo (can't remember what either brand was.) but got the same result. So I threw it in the safe and figured I'd deal with it later.

Now almost three years later, I finally dig it out and go to the range with a couple of fresh boxes of good ammo. It works fine. Cycles perfectly. Obviously my problem was the ammo (?) but it seems strange to me because I have a few other Glocks and they eat anything I have fed them with no issue.

Anyone ever had problems with a 10mm Glock eating certain ammo? Any brands I should avoid or that you recommend?

Ive had a similar experience with a Glock 20....it may have been the catridge OAL but mine didn't like anything loaded with a 200 grain bullet, and even some 180's with a flat meplat.

It ran fine with 165 and 155's but it was useless to me as a bear gun with lighter bullets. Sold it and bought a Sig 220 10mm and haven't looked back.

I've toyed with the idea of buying a G29 but that experience left me wanting. Look into aftermarket barrels if you want to shoot the heavier stuff, I've heard they have slightly different tolerances. (Lone Wolf, KKM, etc)
 

gerrycaruso

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Could it have been caused by weak ammo? I just bought my first 10mm(very impressive). The only factory ammo I shot was loaded quite light. A 180 grain bullet at just under 1000 fps from a 5" barrel. My reloads are not at max but are much faster than that. I think a lot of 10mm ammo is loaded to .40 S&W performance.
 

edmorseiii

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Could it have been caused by weak ammo? I just bought my first 10mm(very impressive). The only factory ammo I shot was loaded quite light. A 180 grain bullet at just under 1000 fps from a 5" barrel. My reloads are not at max but are much faster than that. I think a lot of 10mm ammo is loaded to .40 S&W performance.

I had a G29 a long time ago and would shoot cheap 40s&w through a LW conversion barrel with no problems. Granted the cases would basically dribble out of the gun, but it cycled everything just fine. I do agree with you though, most 10mm is loaded weak.
 

greencobra

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The ammo I just used was 180 grain Aguilar (?) should have kept the box. And 170 grain Hornady.

Is there any way to tell hot hot a factory load is by looking at the box? I've never noticed a fps rating, just grain weight. Is there a recommended fps rating for good performance?
a lot of the 10mm factory ammo seems to be anemic compared to the stuff from the first years of the introduction of the 10. i have a g20 and haven't encountered anything it won't function with. but i was surprised that with factoy ammo, it felt like shooting a .45acp instead of the 10mm i was use to shooting 30 years ago. some companies still load up, buffalo bore is one.

i'm not a gunsmith but would bet the spring is too heavy in your little glock 29 to fully function the pistol with todays 10mm range ammo. manufacturers did that, use heavy springs on smaller large bore semi autos, the compact 45's also, to keep the little guns from battering themselves while under recoil.
on compact .45acp 1911s, you sometimes see gauling at the slide stop cutout which i believe is a sign the gun is beating itself to death. the slide comes forward with force and engages the slide stop hard on an empty mag peening the cutout on the slide stop. just my theory, as i said, i'm far from a expert and definitely no gunsmith.

i reload my 10's with a 180 gr xtp to pretty close to max. i'd have to look at my notes for actual chronographed velocities and loading data.
 
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My G29 was made in 1997 and is a virgin/factory condition gun. Never had an issue, even with anemic loads (or 40sw for that matter).

I've had bad luck with Aguila though, spotty QC seems to be an issue for them. Might have been bad ammo.
 

92G

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it has nothing to do with the ammo. the problem is more likely the striker is hanging up in the striker channel. was the pistol ever cerakoted or painted??

as the slide goes into battery, the striker is pulled to the rear cocked position. if there's anything hanging up in the striker channel, then the slide will not be able to go fully forward. usually when one released the trigger forward then the slide will partially move forward. it's a semi unsafe situation as one can have out-of-battery discharge.

1) remove the slide and back plate. clean your striker and striker channel with a q-tip. do not put lubricant. just clean it. reassemble and test.

2) if problem still persists then remove the striker channel liner and replace that.
 
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I have a glock 20 gen 4 I run the buffalo vote hornady no issue at all I actually love the gun and very fun to shoot and I use it as my hiking gun in NH
 

drgrant

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I owned both a G29 and a G20 and had absolutely no problems with any ammunition I ran in it. I shot lots of blazer 200, UMC 180, Win silvertip 175, bunch of other loads, too.

-Mike
 

drgrant

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it has nothing to do with the ammo. the problem is more likely the striker is hanging up in the striker channel. was the pistol ever cerakoted or painted??

as the slide goes into battery, the striker is pulled to the rear cocked position. if there's anything hanging up in the striker channel, then the slide will not be able to go fully forward. usually when one released the trigger forward then the slide will partially move forward. it's a semi unsafe situation as one can have out-of-battery discharge.

1) remove the slide and back plate. clean your striker and striker channel with a q-tip. do not put lubricant. just clean it. reassemble and test.

2) if problem still persists then remove the striker channel liner and replace that.

All of this...

I'll also add that if the gun fails a basic recoil spring test, that can be a huge part of the problem too, and on casual observation it won't be obvious that the spring is bad.

How to test:
Basically clear the gun, double check it.... is it clear? check it again. good. Rack it, point in safe direction, pull the trigger. Hold the trigger back completely and while pointing the gun skyward (muzzle straight up) pull the slide back and slowly release the slide vertically until bout the last 3% of travel (barrel just unlocked and tilted down but before it opens very far).. while still holding the trigger. If you let the slide go at this point and it goes into battery on its own, the spring is probably OK. If it is out of battery/unlocked or needs to be "pushed" a little to close, the spring is ****ed and needs to be thrown away and replaced. This can cause a shitload of problems with Glocks if your gun fails the RSA test.

-Mike
 
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