Probably not going to save a bunch of money on these. They're short money anyhow. Don't know if there's a discount to be had. I don't like the serrated triggers in the 19, so I just bought a 17 trigger and swapped them out. Takes all of about 15 minutes and I like it a lot better.
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Glock 19 trigger recommendations
- Thread starter Stevireno
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25 cent trigger job. googe it.
Interesting, I never knew that!
"It is there to keep the trigger bar aligned with the striker block, IF you have the magazine release switched around for a lefty. When the release is switched around the magazine puts tensions on the trigger bar which could cause alignment issues with the tab that actuates the block. If you have the mag release set up for a right handed shooter you can run a 3rd gen trigger bar with out issues. It was done as a precautionary measure. It does create another friction point for the trigger bar and thus 4th gens triggers are typically a tad heavier. It is the reason Glock came out with the "Dot" connector in the later 4th gens. The Dot connector is design to lighten the pull back to what a standard 3rd gen has. "
"It is there to keep the trigger bar aligned with the striker block, IF you have the magazine release switched around for a lefty. When the release is switched around the magazine puts tensions on the trigger bar which could cause alignment issues with the tab that actuates the block. If you have the mag release set up for a right handed shooter you can run a 3rd gen trigger bar with out issues. It was done as a precautionary measure. It does create another friction point for the trigger bar and thus 4th gens triggers are typically a tad heavier. It is the reason Glock came out with the "Dot" connector in the later 4th gens. The Dot connector is design to lighten the pull back to what a standard 3rd gen has. "
AllaSnackbah
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I have a mancrush on the pyramid triggers, I love the flat face and flush safety. I'm scared to swap out parts though.
AllaSnackbah
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Lol honestly this, mine all feel fine to me
ChevyGuy91
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This, shoot 4-5k through it as it is. You will build man hands, and the gun will smooth itself out. Trigger jobs on glock are stupid.
Boghog1
NES Member
Post a pic of your g19 trigger face or I call BS
cfbackrow
NES Member
so..now I'm not sure to order the "dot" connector or the "minus" connector when I order the gen 3 17 trigger...and yes I'm easily confused and yes I have trepidation of swapping out parts myself
Cloverleaf Firearms Group
Instructor
When I told him that I run my mag release on right side of gun, he specifically told me that I could not run the gen 3 trigger bar in gen 4 Glock that way. Being the disbeliever that I am.... I did it anyway. It ADDED weight to the trigger pull. He's an international Glock armorer that has forgotten more about Glocks than I know about shooting. Snacks can vouch for this guy too.
Cloverleaf Firearms Group
Instructor
This was the exact quote in pm@cloverleaffirearmsgroup
if u have the mag catch on the right side of the frame then yes you'll need the Gen 4 trigger bar that has the little dimple on the side of the vertical extension of the trigger bar, the 4.5lb connector will reduce the trigger pull
if u have the mag catch on the right side of the frame then yes you'll need the Gen 4 trigger bar that has the little dimple on the side of the vertical extension of the trigger bar, the 4.5lb connector will reduce the trigger pull
You would be surprised how effective roughing up the edges is in contrast to polishing them. Due to the way a Glock trigger breaks by slipping over the connector, a rough surface often provides a smoother break than a polished one.
What he said.
I think the smooth trigger bar is optional and I personally use the Ghost Ultimate or Ghost edge connectors.
For my competition Glocks I also use a Wolff 6 lb trigger spring and a 4 lb striker spring but in one of my Glocks (e.g. G35) this has caused reset issues and I've swapped the striker spring back to factory. I would leave the springs alone for a carry gun.
dcmdon
NES Member
This is what I do.
If you are using it as a target gun, which I doubt, you can drop the stock 5.5 lb striker spring down to 3.5 lbs.
If it is a defensive gun, leave it alone.
In the OP, he stated that the pull wasn't excessively heavy, just rough.
Polishing up all the bearing surfaces will fix that. As will dry firing the gun 1000 times.
Better yet, do both.
Also. using grease rather than oil where the sear acts on the striker as well as where the transfer bar cams down on the connector, never hurts.
I have a gen 4 g17 where all I did was put a 3.5 lb connector in it. But honestly, running the 30,000 - 40,000 rounds through it made far more of a difference than anything else.
I have a gen 4 g19 that I carry. I didn't do anything to it at all. The trigger is perfectly fine for a carry gun so I just never wanted to mess with the gun that should be as reliable as possible when I need it to be.
I recently got the gen 4 g34 and only because I knew I already had two reliable guns I decided to mess with the trigger. My brother and I both put the pyramid trigger in our g34s mostly out of curiosity since we had never used any aftermarket Glock triggers before. I actually really like it. The trigger face being flat and the safety being wider and also flat make a big difference in comfort. It came as a kit with springs and things to lighten the trigger (but also lighten the firing pin strike) which I intentionally left out. I have no interest in potentially running into light strike issues on hard primers. The only other part that we put in was the titanium plunger that interfaces with the trigger bar. It made a slight difference, mostly because it is a more rounded part that lets the trigger slide a little better. The trigger also allows you to adjust pre-travel and over-travel which is nice. I found that whatever it was set to at the factory was plenty good for me and never changed it.
I will say though that my brother and I both had to send the first triggers we received back. There was something wrong and they were out of spec. Both of our triggers got heavier because they seemed to be rubbing on the frame. We bought them through the Glock Store which had excellent customer service that was able to get on the phone with us to try to diagnose the issues. Finally it was concluded there was something wrong with them so they sent replacements. Since I put it into the gun I have put I wanna say around 3,000 rounds through it without any issues. I would still never put it on my carry gun.
dcmdon
NES Member
One quick point about the 3.5 lb connector. Its now called a 4.5 lb connector. Its the same part, but now Glock measures the trigger pull from the middle of the trigger bow. The 3.5 lb connector was supposed to be based on the assumption that you are measuring at the very end of the trigger.
Measured the right way, in the middle of the bow, most guns with a 3.5/4.5 lb connector actually measure a bit over 5 lbs when measured in the middle of teh trigger bow.
Measured the right way, in the middle of the bow, most guns with a 3.5/4.5 lb connector actually measure a bit over 5 lbs when measured in the middle of teh trigger bow.
dcmdon
NES Member
I thought I'd throw this in here.
I'm taking a defensive pistol class at Sig in November so I figured I'd get serious at shooting my G26. It will be the only handgun I'll shoot between now and then. I figure a G34 is kind pointless since I rarely carry it and I carry the G26 all the time.
I'm not great with the 26. Part of the problem comes from the small grip and the gun's tendency to move when I squeeze the trigger. I'll be working on technique over the next couple of months, but I thought I'd try to optimize a totally stock gun.
I decided I'd do a mild tuning on the trigger. I disassembled the gun and polished all be bearing surfaces on the trigger.
I then installed the (gasp) factory glock 4.5 lb connector (marked "-").
I left the factory striker safety plunger spring, trigger spring, and striker spring in place.
With this work done the trigger measures 5.1 lbs on my Lyman digital trigger gauge. About where I expected.
Its nice and smooth and has a nice reset. This plus a 4 lb striker spring (stock is 5.5 lbs) is what I've done to my competition Glocks for about 15 years and its always worked well.
I'm happy with the trigger. Combined with a good holster (Safariland ALS) and some trigger discipline it should be a nice safe compromise. Also, in the hopefully unlikely event that I actually need to use it for serious work, the trigger is safely in "reasonable" territory since its still heavier than many factory triggers.
Don
I'm taking a defensive pistol class at Sig in November so I figured I'd get serious at shooting my G26. It will be the only handgun I'll shoot between now and then. I figure a G34 is kind pointless since I rarely carry it and I carry the G26 all the time.
I'm not great with the 26. Part of the problem comes from the small grip and the gun's tendency to move when I squeeze the trigger. I'll be working on technique over the next couple of months, but I thought I'd try to optimize a totally stock gun.
I decided I'd do a mild tuning on the trigger. I disassembled the gun and polished all be bearing surfaces on the trigger.
I then installed the (gasp) factory glock 4.5 lb connector (marked "-").
I left the factory striker safety plunger spring, trigger spring, and striker spring in place.
With this work done the trigger measures 5.1 lbs on my Lyman digital trigger gauge. About where I expected.
Its nice and smooth and has a nice reset. This plus a 4 lb striker spring (stock is 5.5 lbs) is what I've done to my competition Glocks for about 15 years and its always worked well.
I'm happy with the trigger. Combined with a good holster (Safariland ALS) and some trigger discipline it should be a nice safe compromise. Also, in the hopefully unlikely event that I actually need to use it for serious work, the trigger is safely in "reasonable" territory since its still heavier than many factory triggers.
Don
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I recently picked up a police trade in Glock 19 from Aimsurplus. It has the orange NY 2 trigger spring. If I want to have the trigger pull for a stock Glock 19 do I just purchase the $1.99 trigger spring - coil (mfr part SP00350) and have that installed. If that is the only part I need is it easy to install the part myself and if yes do I need any special tool for easy install?
dcmdon
NES Member
PM me I'll send you a trigger spring for free.
Ive read on a few sites that the NY1(#8) spring combined with the "-" glock OEM connector will yield about a 6# pull that some consider smoother than the
stock spring coil trigger. Curious if anyone here has a
first hand experience with it?
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dcmdon
NES Member
I read somewhere that its more revolver like. Although I have no experience.
I don't know why anyone would not just put a "-" connector in the first place.
You still end up with a 5+ lb trigger when measured from the middle of the trigger bow.
Don
I don't know why anyone would not just put a "-" connector in the first place.
You still end up with a 5+ lb trigger when measured from the middle of the trigger bow.
Don
