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Garand Specialist in Western Massachusetts?

FPrice

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Is there anyone (gunsmith) in Western. maybe Central Massachusetts who specializes in M1 Garands? My son thinks that he may need a new barrel.
 
You really should not need a M1 specialist
For a rebarrel.
A gun smith capable of installing barrels is all that is needed.
If you have some mechanical skills
Installing a barrel and finishing reaming the chamber is about $350 in tools
Noaha’s motors in Sagus is as far west as I know for actual Garand work.
 
A lack of consistent impact on the target and the fact that it seems to fail the muzzle test. Inserting an unfired round in the muzzle and it is very loose.
Well in the mean time while looking for a smith we can see if its other things
What are your sons targets looking like?
These are things I see all the time
1. Loose gas lock
2. Loose gas cylinder splines
3. Worn loose lower band
4. Poor fitted wood
5. Rear/front sight loose
Rusty fundamentals

Also ammo can play a part in it

Also expectations and “skill” set

Expectations are generally high for the M1 when in reality 3-5 moa is a “good” rifle.

Skill set : my skills are so so and If I question the ability of a platform I tey my best to take me out of it and “bench teat it” or hand it to someone with known high skills.

I know my video skills SUCK but these little steps have tightened up my M1s

 
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Some interesting ideas, thanks. I have to take my Garand apart for a winter-time cleaning so I'll try to look at some of those suggestions and try them out.
 
Muzzles got worn out from too much/careless cleaning from the muzzle. The old solution for the "Blue Sky Imports" was to drill out or "back bore" the muzzle a half inch or so until you got back into good rifling.
I haven't seen that done in a long, long time.
 
Muzzles got worn out from too much/careless cleaning from the muzzle. The old solution for the "Blue Sky Imports" was to drill out or "back bore" the muzzle a half inch or so until you got back into good rifling.
I haven't seen that done in a long, long time.
I've only seen that on Mosin Nagants.
 
Muzzles got worn out from too much/careless cleaning from the muzzle. The old solution for the "Blue Sky Imports" was to drill out or "back bore" the muzzle a half inch or so until you got back into good rifling.
I haven't seen that done in a long, long time.
I just did that on an 1851 Colt Navy.
 
Here's a picture of a brand new manufactured Creedmore .30-06 round in the muzzle of my son's Garand. Wish it were a little clearer but it does go all the way in up to the brass case. AND wiggles around a bit. I checked the inside of the muzzle as well I could and it's as if there is NO rifling till about 1\4" in. The barrel is marked as a "4 65" year which makes it all the more puzzling how this could happen.
 

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Here's a picture of a brand new manufactured Creedmore .30-06 round in the muzzle of my son's Garand. Wish it were a little clearer but it does go all the way in up to the brass case. AND wiggles around a bit. I checked the inside of the muzzle as well I could and it's as if there is NO rifling till about 1\4" in. The barrel is marked as a "4 65" year which makes it all the more puzzling how this could happen.
Is that the 167 gn bullet or the 150 gn bullet stuff?
Any chance its counter bored?
Is this M1 from the CMP if so what grade?
 
Here's a picture of a brand new manufactured Creedmore .30-06 round in the muzzle of my son's Garand. Wish it were a little clearer but it does go all the way in up to the brass case. AND wiggles around a bit. I checked the inside of the muzzle as well I could and it's as if there is NO rifling till about 1\4" in. The barrel is marked as a "4 65" year which makes it all the more puzzling how this could happen.
Still 50 plus years old and could have been a match rifle for a part of its life , hot loads? Any pitting or rust ?
Usually cleaning rod damage causes a uneven wear and takes a lot of cleaning ro get there. Garand Collector Association did a cleaning rod test in one of the Magazines a while back I dont remember the details but it took a lot to see measurable damage ?
 
Is that the 167 gn bullet or the 150 gn bullet stuff?
Any chance its counter bored?
Is this M1 from the CMP if so what grade?

I "thunk" 150 grain but I can't find any confirmation in any of the paperwork. The current offering for Creedmoor says 167 grain so what I "thought" most likely is wrong.

Have no idea if it's counter bored. But the last quarter inch of barrel is a dull gray, def not smooth, shiny metal.

It probably was a CMP rifle but it's passed through at least two or three hands with no CMP paperwork. In my estimation it's quite possibly a very good Rack Grade or a good Service Grade, other than the muzzle issue.

Can't offer anything else other than it's seen only very limited usage in my hands.
 
I "thunk" 150 grain but I can't find any confirmation in any of the paperwork. The current offering for Creedmoor says 167 grain so what I "thought" most likely is wrong.

Have no idea if it's counter bored. But the last quarter inch of barrel is a dull gray, def not smooth, shiny metal.

It probably was a CMP rifle but it's passed through at least two or three hands with no CMP paperwork. In my estimation it's quite possibly a very good Rack Grade or a good Service Grade, other than the muzzle issue.

Can't offer anything else other than it's seen only very limited usage in my hands.
The death of a M1 is +1.77”. 5 shot group at 1000 inches after 3 fouling shots to the berm From a mechanical testing Jig

I only ask what bullet type because of the differences in ogive. So the bullet test can be deceiving depending on where the ogive gets to bearing surface dia.
 
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Here's a picture of a brand new manufactured Creedmore .30-06 round in the muzzle of my son's Garand. Wish it were a little clearer but it does go all the way in up to the brass case. AND wiggles around a bit. I checked the inside of the muzzle as well I could and it's as if there is NO rifling till about 1\4" in. The barrel is marked as a "4 65" year which makes it all the more puzzling how this could happen.

That's more than likely poor cleaning practices with a steel cleaning rod.
 
Soldiers didn't give a crap about accuracy or keeping them accurate. It was more about cleaning them as fast as they could.
My dad was laughing at the “inspection” cleaning , basically washing all the CLP off at the time the “clp” contained teflon of some other shit that was supposed to penetrate the alloy pores and protect the rifles. Often cleaning them in hot soapy water to get them clean for inspection.
 
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