Full Power Loads

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When talking about full power loads, do you mean loading the the max grn. listed in a reloading manual? Or does a full power load simply mean one that is loaded anywhere in the range of minimum to maximum grains listed?

I usually do my reloads near somewhere near the max. For instance, the powder I am using now says the range is between 4.5 minimum to 5.2 maximum. So I load around 5.0. Would that be considered a full power load?

Thanks
Adam
 
My understanding of full-power loads means those loads which meet the so-called "factory standard" for the caliber and bullet weight of a particular round. I first heard of it in IPSC shooting with their power factor. Since IPSC began as a "practical" competition, with emphasis on the .45ACP, the founders wanted competitors to use factory-equivalent loads (230 grain bullet at, IIRC 830fps). After a while some competitors began trying lighter and lighter loads in an effort to gain a competitive advantage. This earned these shooters the disdain of the more "martial" shooters who favored the original loadings.

The same thing has happened in Cowboy Shooting. Traditional shooters use rounds that approximate the old-time loadings where as the gamesmen use lighter and lighter loads.

I hope this helps.
 
I usually do my reloads near somewhere near the max. For instance, the powder I am using now says the range is between 4.5 minimum to 5.2 maximum. So I load around 5.0. Would that be considered a full power load?

It depends upon the caliber and bullet you are using. If you get a velocity close to what the factory loading would be, then you are using a full-power load.
 
Full Power means Factory Standard Loads.

You don't have get exactly to them, just close. And some guns are finicky about the load, like a Glock. Very safe gun, but they'll malfunction on less than full power loads.

The exact powder makes a difference, as well. Match the powder to the cartridge. You shouldn't be using slower powders in a cartridge that's meant for fast powders, then bitch because the gun malf's. Again, you only need to be close.
 
Adam - I refer to full-power loads meaning standard factory ammo (not + P's) or, reloads that meet the same spec's. I use it to differeniate between light loads and factory loads.
 
I didn't take time to fully explain powder. All examples below ASSUME different and appropriate amounts of each powder, using data from reliable manuals.

All references will assume using semi-autos, both rifle and pistol, since light loads don't affect any other type of action (except Full Auto).

Consider what happens to pressures when you use let's say Win 296 instead of a more optimum powder, let's say 700X in a 9mm for instance. You may end up with a load that won't build proper pressure before the case is full. End result: Malfunctions.

In a rifle, see what happens when you use 4831 in a 30-06 Garand. Doesn't fully function the action. Why? Insufficient port pressure.

Use 4350 in an M14? Same problem.

Significantly faster powders in either? Beats the action up, badly.

So, what's the bottom line here? Use the optimum powder for the gun and caliber. What's optimum, you ask?

9mm, 40 S&W and 45 ACP all function well with 700X or 800X.

308/7.62 NATO function very well with Win 748, 4895 or WC844 or WC846.

30-06 functions very well with 4350, 4895, Win 760 or WC852.

223/5.56 functions well with about the same powders as the 308.

You'll want to stay around these particular burning rates for these calibers.
 
Ok..
I was mostly using "Unique" powder to reload 45ACP. I was finding that even near the max load, the bullets were still tending to "keyhole" the paper. So I just worked up a test batch of rounds using 200grn LCW (same bullets as before) loaded with 5.0 grn of 700X powder. I found that they shot about the same although I was not getting the "keyhole" issues I was before. However now the bullet seems to go through the paper straight, but rips the paper all around the hole. The action functions perfectly with both of these reloadings, however I am not getting clean holes in the paper.

Do you think this is because the load is still a little light? Or now could it be an issue with the bullet design?

Adam
 
IIRC, Unique is a little on the slow side for the 45.

700X is what I'm using, and works for me.

Ragged holes in the paper is likely caused by the paper or the bullet. I think the load is at a minimum, close to about right. I don't have my loading manual right here, but, I do know it's close.
 
The only bullet I've ever seen punch nice round holes in paper is the .38 wad cuttes we used to use for qual's back in the day of wheel-guns.
 
I am also using Northeast bullets. I am using the 200grn LSW.

I checked my Lyman manual last night. The max load on those bullets is 5.5grn of 700x, and the load starts at 4.0grn. I am loading at 5.0grn.

That brings me to another question. If you have a load that you would like to adjust for the reasons I have, how far would you step the powder each time? If I am loading at 5.0grn right now, and the max load is 5.5grn how many 10'ths would you increase at a time?

I don't know if I'm comfortable loading to the max charge progressively, and hand measuring the loads for the amount of pistol rounds I shoot would take more time than it's worth.

Adam
 
Depends on the gun.

Assuming it's a 1911A1 or clone (or a different strong gun), I'd go 2/10ths the first two times, and stop at 5.5 grains.

Going up slow with a handgun is usually a moot point, since the pressures are too low to show signs on the cases.

Rifle ammo, like 308 or 30-06, I recommend going up by half grains, and work up the last half slower. Watch for flattened or cratered primers, and sticky extraction.
 
Para's are strong enough to handle about anything a true 1911A1 will handle. Definitely anything in a loading manual anyways.

So, that being said, I'd have no problems with going up in a couple steps, say 5.3, then 5.5. If it functions well, and does everything you want at 5.3, I'd stick with that. You get a little extra "safety barrier" that way.
 
Update

I loaded up a batch of the rounds mentioned before, only using 5.3grn as Nickle suggested. I was still noticing that the paper was tending to tear around the entry point of the bullet, only not anywhere near as severe as before. So I dropped a couple of dimes in the can at my indoor range and got a couple of real targets. Real meaning printed on the stiffer paper, not the paper out of my printer. The problem stopped at once. So I think it's a combination of the actual bullets and the paper, because a guy that works at my favorite gun shop casts his own bullets, gave me some to test out, and it was putting holes in the paper that looked like they were being made by a hole punch.

So, my next question... What are the rest of you, who are reloading pistol rounds using for the bullets?

Thanks
Adam
 
Re: Update

Adam_MA said:
So, my next question... What are the rest of you, who are reloading pistol rounds using for the bullets?

Thanks
Adam

I just had 2000 bullets show up at my door last night.

http://northeastbullet.com/

Don't know why, but I love them. And he doesn't charge shipping, and he's cheaper than any store that I've been too. When I've called him, he said that the only way to get them cheaper is to pick them up from his shop. He's in Maine. Eight bucks of the web site price. So, still cheaper to have them shipped.

Anyway, I use the following:

For my .38. I use 0.358 diameter 158 gr Round Nose Flat Point.

For my .357 I use 9mm 0.356 diameter 147 gr Flat Point

For my .45 I use 0.452 diameter 250 gr Round Nose Flat Point.

Edited to clairify bullets and not rounds. --Derek [wink]
 
I am currently using North East Bullets. I am using the 200grn LSW. Maybe I'll have to try another bullet type from them and see how they come out.

Adam
 
Adam_MA said:
I am currently using North East Bullets. I am using the 200grn LSW. Maybe I'll have to try another bullet type from them and see how they come out.

Adam


Maybe that would have something to do with it as well. And maybe someone else would be able to clarify.

But I think that that's the point of a simi wadcutter. That it's not a clean through and through. I thought that it was to tumble a little more.
 
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