FTF issue with Ruger sr1911

ToddDubya

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Are the wadcutters just too "flat" to feed? In my head I can see them getting stubbed on the top of the chamber, where the curved ball or HP ammo would not.

Are you using handloads or commercial loads? If hand loads, maybe tweaking the COL would help.
 

mark095

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Yes the wadcutters are my reloads, they've been working fine in my S&W and my Kimber for years..
The bullet is starting to go into the chamber it allmost seems like the rear of the case won't slide up past the extractor , so it holding it cocked enough to jam up... Does that seem like a possibility ??

Mark
 

mark095

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Ok I tried cycling the slide by hand, the semi wadcutter has gone past the ramp and started into the chamber, doesn't look like anything is hanging up there.... I'm curious about the extractor though...
 

F2blica

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I had the same problem with mine with factory ammo. There was only about .001" difference between a piece of brass and the breech face. It was like they didn't machine it enough. I sent it back to Ruger and they replaced the slide. Contact them for a shipping label. It eats everything I feed it now.
 

mark095

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I had the same problem with mine with factory ammo. There was only about .001" difference between a piece of brass and the breech face. It was like they didn't machine it enough. I sent it back to Ruger and they replaced the slide. Contact them for a shipping label. It eats everything I feed it now.

Thanks , that kind of seems like the problem... What was the turn around time for Ruger to fix it
 

F2blica

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The first time I got it back in about a week. Although it cycled & shot fine, I wasn't happy with the slide to frame fit. It seemed much too loose to me. It went from a tight 1911 (when I first got it) to what seemed like a worn out 1911. I contacted Ruger to explain my dissatisfaction. They e-mailed me another shipping label. The second time around took about 3 weeks. Came back the way I thought it should have been. I have been happy with it since. That was about a year & a half ago. Ruger sent me a nice hat for my patience. Anyone who has ever shot it always made positive comments about it.
 

Supermoto

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Was doing this with roundball and semiwadcutter, after I buffed frame ramp and barel ramp it feeds ball just fine but the wadcutters are still getting hung up... Tried different mags also.... Any ideas what to try next

View attachment 68874

If you bump the back of the slide, will it feed? The extractor might need a little tuning
 

mark095

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The first time I got it back in about a week. Although it cycled & shot fine, I wasn't happy with the slide to frame fit. It seemed much too loose to me. It went from a tight 1911 (when I first got it) to what seemed like a worn out 1911. I contacted Ruger to explain my dissatisfaction. They e-mailed me another shipping label. The second time around took about 3 weeks. Came back the way I thought it should have been. I have been happy with it since. That was about a year & a half ago. Ruger sent me a nice hat for my patience. Anyone who has ever shot it always made positive comments about it.

I don't know if I should send it back to Ruger and go through the possibility of having to send it back a 2nd time, or just have Santori in Attleboro check it out... It it an easy fix or a big money fix? I'd rather pay a little than be without it for a month
 
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F2blica

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Send it back to Ruger, it won't cost you a dime. When you talk to them, tell them not to just slap any slide on it & call or good. Tell them you want it back with the slide to frame fit just as tight as it is now. Why pay a gunsmith?
 

mark095

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View attachment 68947

I was just reading an article that some of the Ruger slides have what they call a J cut issue and not lettin the cartridge rest on the breach face properly, this is some of my brass from yesterday.. Note the gouge in the rear of the case... Ruger admits to some of there slides not being properly machined
 
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Well at least your front sight hasn't sheared off yet. I sent my SR 1911 CMD back to Ruger yesterday. Front sight sheared off at round count 181 (new pistol) .230 ball ammo, standard velocity.

You might want to send the pistol back to Ruger, their customer service department was great. They will send you a UPS 1 day air shipping label. My gun is already back at Prescott. Don't know when it will be returned though. Turns out the front sight problem is reasonably well known.
 
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mark095

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Well at least your front sight hasn't sheared off yet. I sent my SR 1911 CMD back to Ruger yesterday. Front sight sheared off at round count 181 (new pistol) .230 ball ammo, standard velocity.

You might want to send the pistol back to Ruger, their customer service department was great. They will send you a UPS 1 day air shipping label. My gun is already back at Prescott. Don't know when it will be returned though. Turns out the front sight problem is reasonably well known.

My front sight is still intact.. Lol maybe ill tell them to change it before it shears off..... [laugh]
 
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OAL is critical with SWC bullets; I have my best results with 1.250. Another point to check is the underside of the barrel hood, it should be chamfered. The mark on the fired cases is interesting. It would appear that the breech face is not completely flat. The raised portion of the breech face that is denting the cases may be high enough to prevent the round from sliding under the extractor. I would send the pistol back along with some fired brass.
 

mark095

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Ok, I'm stubborn and like to tinker... I shot the gun again and after 2 rnds it jammed again, now shinning a light in there I noticed the round looked like it was hanging up on the extractor.. So I went on Willson Combat and there's a spec sheet on tunning extractors.... Mine was WAY off, there was a 1/8 gap between the hook and the breach face.. The hook was catching on the upper bevel of the case and jamming it up.. Not even close to holding a round in place with the slide off.. So after some bending and filing the metal before the hook I got it pretty good.. Took it to the range Sunday and put 250 rounds of SWC through it, not 1 jam.. I did notice there's a lot of play between the firing pin stop and the extractor , not a good fit it allows the extractor to turn.. So maybe a new extractor and firing pin stop from Willson would be a good idea.... Don't want to get the same crap from Ruger if I send it back...
 

ToddDubya

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View attachment 68947

I was just reading an article that some of the Ruger slides have what they call a J cut issue and not lettin the cartridge rest on the breach face properly, this is some of my brass from yesterday.. Note the gouge in the rear of the case... Ruger admits to some of there slides not being properly machined

My brass comes out looking the same way. I didn't notice anything off about the breach face, but I'll take a closer look. For some reason I seem to recall this being a normal thing.

ETA: I just checked mine and it does have a little raised spot next to the ejector (with slide locked back) that doesn't look like it's machined all the way down. I'm not too worried about it.
 
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Ok, I'm stubborn and like to tinker... I shot the gun again and after 2 rnds it jammed again, now shinning a light in there I noticed the round looked like it was hanging up on the extractor.. So I went on Willson Combat and there's a spec sheet on tunning extractors.... Mine was WAY off, there was a 1/8 gap between the hook and the breach face.. The hook was catching on the upper bevel of the case and jamming it up.. Not even close to holding a round in place with the slide off.. So after some bending and filing the metal before the hook I got it pretty good.. Took it to the range Sunday and put 250 rounds of SWC through it, not 1 jam.. I did notice there's a lot of play between the firing pin stop and the extractor , not a good fit it allows the extractor to turn.. So maybe a new extractor and firing pin stop from Willson would be a good idea.... Don't want to get the same crap from Ruger if I send it back...

Sounds like the extractor is too long. I would test it by chambering some cases with the extracror groove (tapered forward area) painted with magic marker. If the extractor is hitting the forward area (you should see the marks) it is too long. Over time this contact can cause the part to break.
 
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PS most 1911s have enough play between the extractor and FP stop to allow it to turn (this is called "clocking") and they work just fine. A fitted extractor and FP stop are an improvement but are not absolutely necessary.
 
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