Free Floating Forearm Help

[xx240gxx]

So I picked up a new Bushmaster O.R.C recently and I am finally financially ready to upgrade this thing. My first order is adding a tactical forearm. I know AR's well enough, but haven't done this part yet. How hard is it, time consuming, what tools etc?? Also anybody have any tips on where to get a nice forearm, I am liking Midwest Industries, and Daniel Defense so far.

 

[vellnueve]

Do you really need a free float? Are you going to be shooting precision matches at 300 yards? If not, then you don't need a free floater, a standard two-piece drop-in railed handguard would be a better choice. Free floaters take a bit more work.

 

[RickG]

Take a look at the Omega rails from Daniel Defense. They are easy to install, relatively inexpensive and work great. As was stated above, the free floaters are more money and alot harder to install. Most, if not all, require that the front sight tower be removed as well as the muzzle brake/flash suppresor.

If you do go with a free floater, the Midwest ones are a great choice.

 

[Underwhere]

I just bought a midwest industries 2 piece free float handguard.
Requires you cut off the delta ring. No removal of front sight, gas block or barrel.

Hopefully should be her friday or monday. I've never done it either.

 

[MassMark]

Yup - vellnueve makes a point. What kind of rifle is this? If it's a carbine - a fighting rifle, there's little-to-no need for a free-float. Check out M4carbine.net and do some reading. If indeed you have a carbine and want one of the most solid, robust - yet lightweight and affordable options for your rifle, look into a Troy MRF-DI. The Troy mounting system is rock solid and yet unlike most other DI's, it adds only 2oz to your rifle...

 

[vellnueve]

I personally have been very happy with my Midwest Industries 2-piece extended carbine length drop-in unit. I recommend it highly.

 

[Underwhere]

I had a midwest Industries 2 piece carbine drop in and it wiggled with my vertical foregrip.

I am selling it and I have a midwest industries 2 piece free float coming. I'm hoping it will get rid of the slight wiggle that I had.

Plus it also allows for a continuous rail on top.

 

[Underwhere]

Here's a tutorial on how to cut the delta ring and then install the midwest industries free float 2 piece assembly

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3

 

[vellnueve]

Only thing that wiggles on my AR is the matchup between upper and lower and the VFG itself (the rails are solid, but the grip is a cheap one)

 

[djs764]

The UTG free floater looks like you don't need to cut the delta ring off .

http://www.madriverknife.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MNTHG416SE

 

[vellnueve]

UTG? Waste of money.

 

[Underwhere]

UTG? Waste of money.

Why?

 

[vellnueve]

UTG/Leapers really is glorified Airsoft material... Not the worst around, because there's some pretty **** bad stuff out there, but still crap IMO.

 

[Underwhere]

UTG/Leapers really is glorified Airsoft material... Not the worst around, because there's some pretty **** bad stuff out there, but still crap IMO.

What about these things makes them bad/good? What do you look for?
I don't have any experience with this stuff.

 

[vellnueve]

Cheap construction, inferior materials, poor tolerances.

You get what you pay for.

 

[Underwhere]

Cheap construction, inferior materials, poor tolerances.

You get what you pay for.

So some of these things don't fit correctly due to tolerances?
Do some of these actually break because of metal composition?

 

[djs764]

Cheap construction, inferior materials, poor tolerances.

You get what you pay for.

I have the UTG and it's fine, fits great. If they were so inferior they'd be out of business by now. Also, Are you going to use this in combat where you need something to withstand many hours of abuse....I doubt it. For the average trip to the range there's nothing wrong with them.

I'm sure someone may have got a bad batch that were machined out of spec. It's just like saying every Ford F-150 is junk because you got one that was a lemon. For the price I haven't had any problems with mine and I could buy 3 more for what some of the others cost.

 

[Underwhere]

I have the UTG and it's fine, fits great. If they were so inferior they'd be out of business by now. Also, Are you going to use this in combat where you need something to withstand many hours of abuse....I doubt it. For the average trip to the range there's nothing wrong with them.

I'm sure someone may have got a bad batch that were machined out of spec. It's just like saying every Ford F-150 is junk because you got one that was a lemon. For the price I haven't had any problems with mine and I could buy 3 more for what some of the others cost.

I have worked with cars and car parts for many many years and found that you really need to be knowledgeable about what you can go cheap on and what you need to pay for.

That knowledge comes with time and personal experience. Research as much as possible but always take everything with a grain of salt. Never trust information without any explanation at all. If you can't get an explanation, find someone who can give you one. If they can't, then use your common sense, not word on the street to make your decision.

Example: I bought a torque dampener on ebay for $50 shipped. My friend bought a brand name one for $185. "Don't buy that cheap crap" is what I kept hearing. We disassembled. They were identical down to the grade bolts. Both functioned identically. He spent $130 more.

In my opinion, a handguard is a handguard. My theory is that they are all manufactured the same way with the same materials. If you're using the same machine at different companies you're going to get the same result. Not many people go for the exotic metal compositions because they have no reason to. I don't see people complaining of their handguards falling to pieces, disintegrating into the wind or rusting through (but I always ask just in case).

I just cannot fathom spending hundreds and hundreds on a handguard when functionally it is the same as any other. No moving parts. Same railed construction. Same material.

I am always for the cheaper alternative (with research). If I buy that alternative and it ends up being sub-par I have more knowledge to make that 2nd purchase and to apply to other purchases.

 

[MassMark]

There are indeed folks happy with their Leapers UTG - there are also folks who are not...I guess roll the dice and move your mice, but I like to buy things once. To me, at $140.00, the Troy MRF-DI not only has value, but it has a legion of people who stand behind it's durability, mounting, materials, utility and overall quality....

If you go over to M4carbine.net and type in: "Leapers UTG", then Troy MRF-DI", on a search, you may find some information that could be useful....

 

[Underwhere]

There are indeed folks happy with their Leapers UTG - there are also folks who are not...I guess roll the dice and move your mice, but I like to buy things once. To me, at $140.00, the Troy MRF-DI not only has value, but it has a legion of people who stand behind it's durability, mounting, materials, utility and overall quality....

If you go over to M4carbine.net and type in: "Leapers UTG", then Troy MRF-DI", on a search, you may find some information that could be useful....

I'm not saying buy all the generic and cheaper counterparts. I'm just saying to do your research and don't exclude something just because it costs less or other people give advice without reason.

I find that too many people do that and they perpetuate myths.

You absolutely will find me with more expensive parts, and at the same time with some cheap ones.

 

[MassMark]

I'm not saying buy all the generic and cheaper counterparts. I'm just saying to do your research and don't exclude something just because it costs less or other people give advice without reason.

I find that too many people do that and they perpetuate myths.

You absolutely will find me with more expensive parts, and at the same time with some cheap ones.

Yup - I'm the same way. In fact, I tend to scoff at those who knock everything Leapers/BSA/CAA/Tapco makes, as they do make some good stuff. I ran into a guy from Connecticut driving tacks with his Leapers scope equipped AR-15. He said that he bought it several years ago and had a few thousand rounds with it riding on top of his AR. Optics were clear, the illuminated reticle was really neat and it did what he asked of it. Our own CahillJ is on his third deployment to Iraq, (and not on desk duty), with a BSA red dot on his M4. The scope is absolutely beat - finish all but gone, yet I was hitting Christmas ornaments with it at 100-yards - go figure. Still, all the companies mentioned make shit as well and it looks as if the UTG rail may be among them. I considered buying one myself, as I had read several good reports on them. However, there are manufacturing consistency issues that once you do some research, you'll find crop up more and more. I'd rather spend a few extra on something that is going to last - and a Troy will do just that. The proof is in the pudding, but ultimately, you have to buy what you feel is best. Good luck!

 

[Underwhere]

Yup - I'm the same way. In fact, I tend to scoff at those who knock everything Leapers/BSA/CAA/Tapco makes, as they do make some good stuff. I ran into a guy from Connecticut driving tacks with his Leapers scope equipped AR-15. He said that he bought it several years ago and had a few thousand rounds with it riding on top of his AR. Optics were clear, the illuminated reticle was really neat and it did what he asked of it. Our own CahillJ is on his third deployment to Iraq, (and not on desk duty), with a BSA red dot on his M4. The scope is absolutely beat - finish all but gone, yet I was hitting Christmas ornaments with it at 100-yards - go figure. Still, all the companies mentioned make shit as well and it looks as if the UTG rail may be among them. I considered buying one myself, as I had read several good reports on them. However, there are manufacturing consistency issues that once you do some research, you'll find crop up more and more. I'd rather spend a few extra on something that is going to last - and a Troy will do just that. The proof is in the pudding, but ultimately, you have to buy what you feel is best. Good luck!

You capture my sentiments exactly.

 

[Old Glory]

LaRue for top end

Yankee Hill for good quality and value

 

[vellnueve]

I wouldn't touch UTG rails. I consider rails to be a critical component. Cheap rails may simply break, may not be aligned perfectly straight. I remember buying a Leapers bipod (Harris clone) that was terrible and was returned within days. I've had some other disappointing cheap stuff which is why I am a lot more careful buying accessories now.

I don't knock all the cheap stuff. My VFG is a Promag grip that cost me $8.95. My SHTF rifle is built on a DPMS lower and a Model 1 upper and internals. None of those components has contributed to a single failure to feed, fire, or eject. However, I felt it necessary to get a quality fore-end and BUIS, which is why I have an MI rail and rear sight, and a LMT bolt carrier. All my scopes, other than the Leupold Mark IV that I got for free (and the EOTech, but that's not really a scope) are cheapos.

Troy, YHM, Midwest Industries, LaRue, you're not going to go wrong with any of them. Anything that contributes to accuracy or reliability, I don't skimp on.

 

[Underwhere]

LaRue for top end

Yankee Hill for good quality and value

What are the differences between the two?

I wouldn't touch UTG rails. I consider rails to be a critical component. Cheap rails may simply break, may not be aligned perfectly straight. I remember buying a Leapers bipod (Harris clone) that was terrible and was returned within days. I've had some other disappointing cheap stuff which is why I am a lot more careful buying accessories now.

I don't knock all the cheap stuff. My VFG is a Promag grip that cost me $8.95. My SHTF rifle is built on a DPMS lower and a Model 1 upper and internals. None of those components has contributed to a single failure to feed, fire, or eject. However, I felt it necessary to get a quality fore-end and BUIS, which is why I have an MI rail and rear sight, and a LMT bolt carrier. All my scopes, other than the Leupold Mark IV that I got for free (and the EOTech, but that's not really a scope) are cheapos.

Troy, YHM, Midwest Industries, LaRue, you're not going to go wrong with any of them. Anything that contributes to accuracy or reliability, I don't skimp on.

I bought a cheap VFG and I'm not happy with it. Maybe I should get a cheapo Promag. My no-name I picked up at a gun show wiggles and is rubberized but the coating moves.

 

[CLICCO]

Free Float Installation

I don't have a workshop or the proper tools; where could I bring my upper and a free float forearm to have it installed? How much will the installation likely cost? Any advice is appreciated.

 

[vellnueve]

John at Remsport.

 

[Gammon]

Only thing that wiggles on my AR is the matchup between upper and lower and the VFG itself (the rails are solid, but the grip is a cheap one)

Try one of Al Zitta's AccuWedges.

 

[vellnueve]

No thanks, no need to add something to the rifle when it already functions perfectly.

 

[CLICCO]

Thanks for the recommendation, vellnueve - any other options? Remsport is out in western MA, are there any places closer to the Boston-area to have a free float forearm installed?