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Forming & reloading .577/450

The Goose

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I recently acquired a couple of old British Martini Henry rifles chambered in .577/450 and I would like to shoot them. The cost of loaded ammo is prohibitive to say the least and often the bullets are the wrong size for a given rifle. Even the brass runs $5.00 - $8.00 each, if you can find it. After some web searching on some Martini Henry forums and Youtube I came up with a way to form the brass at a somewhat reasonable cost, although labor intensive. I know that this topic will interest only a very few, but I thought I would share how I am doing it with the equipment I have or have put together. Others may have better ways or better equipment, but so far this is working for me.

First of all Magtech makes a 24 gauge brass shotshell that sells for just under $25 for 25.

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It needs to be trimmed to 2.283" for the purpose. In the past I have used a dremel to trim brass and have only trimmed close to the correct length and then used a case trimmer to get the exact length and a smooth cut. I do not have a case trimmer large enough for this brass ( I doubt anyone does) so I need a smooth and precise cut right out of the gate. I found an inexpensive tube cutter with a socket placed inside of the brass supports it for a nice cut and the screwdriver type handle makes it easy to turn. So I scribe the brass wit my calipers, cut it and then rub it accross some sandpaper.

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Next I anneal the end of the brass. I use a rod in my electric drill and spin the brass over the flame for 5 - 6 seconds and drop into cold water.

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Since I also load .577 Snider I use the Snider sizing die to begin the sizing process. Because the Snider brass is only 2" long I back the die out a few turns for the initial reduction. I use Lee sizing lube.

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Now I insert the .577/450 sizing die into the press. I only twist it in until the very first thrad catches enough to hold the die in place. Then I slowly work the brass up into it until it is flush. Any binding and I back off and slowly begin again. After a few ruined brass I got the "feel".

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This is how the brass looks at this point.

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Now I began slowly advancing. There are six flats on the die nut and I go a 1/6 turn each time and then raise th ram adding lube as needed. This is slow, but very reliable. Every so many turns I check the brass for signs of wrinkling or crushing. At about the half way point I anneal the brass for 5 - 6 seconds again and then continue until the ramm is all the way up. Here is the end result.

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I have my brass and the loading portion begins. At this point I expand the neck and insert a large pistol primer. Next I load 85 grains of Goex 2F black powder down a drop tube.

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There is room in the case so I need a filler. I want to get some carded wool like the original, but for right now I am useing some cotton ball with a Walters .060 vegetable fiber wad on top. I slightly compress it with a punch.

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My bullet is a .468 diameter from an RCBS mold and I use a .468 sizing die in my Lyman lubrisizer that I got from Buffalo Arms Co. The lube is a blackpowder lube made by Sagebrush. This is a good size bullet for most British made Martini Henry's although of course you should slug your bore to find out. There is a good video on Youtube on how to do this and in particular how to measure the size for the MH. As a side note the Nepalese rifles such as the Gahendra can vary widely in bore dimensions.

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Below is the end result. I will post some range reports as I go along. Now that I have the basic idea down I can start playing with loads and working on accuracy. I only have a dozen pieces of brass made up right now, but slowly over time that will increase. Hope you found this interestig.

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My Martini Henry MK II

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Thats awesome. I have so much respect for the involved process that shooters will go through to bring back to life old guns like the martini-henry (which has a lot of interesting history associated with it as I'm sure you know). Theres a real satisfaction in making a rare, obsolete round yourself and then shooting it. Good for you.
 
This is just so cool. I really enjoy reading about this sort of stuff. I have a ton of respect that you go to these lengths to continue to use these rifles.
 
BRAVO!
as always amazing, detailed, informative. rocking post man.

how get some video of that thing firing!
 
thank you for posting and sharing it with us. I was a very through walk threw learning experience.
 
Thanks for sharing this it's really interesting.
How do you know you have heated the case enough when your annealing it? Do you think a non contact infrared thermometer would work?
Thanks.
 
Thanks for sharing this it's really interesting.
How do you know you have heated the case enough when your annealing it? Do you think a non contact infrared thermometer would work?
Thanks.

I don't know about the infrared thermometer. I use the "wild ass guess" method of annealing. By trial and error I have found out what works (for me). Since writing the above I have consistently used 7 seconds for annealing. One thousand one, one thousand two, etc. I also know there are debates about whether quenching with water is necessary. I don't really know. At this point I have made in excess of 100 pieces of 577/450 brass and have reloaded each one multiple times with no signs of wear. So for me this method works. Initially I ruined more than a few pieces of brass before getting the method down. Now I do exactly the same thing each time and I do not rush any step. As I said, right now I have more than 100 of the 577/450 and another hundred or so of .577 Snider, both from the parent 24 gauge brass. A lot of long slow work, but I never screw one up anymore.
 
I don't know about the infrared thermometer. I use the "wild ass guess" method of annealing. By trial and error I have found out what works (for me). Since writing the above I have consistently used 7 seconds for annealing. One thousand one, one thousand two, etc. I also know there are debates about whether quenching with water is necessary. I don't really know. At this point I have made in excess of 100 pieces of 577/450 brass and have reloaded each one multiple times with no signs of wear. So for me this method works. Initially I ruined more than a few pieces of brass before getting the method down. Now I do exactly the same thing each time and I do not rush any step. As I said, right now I have more than 100 of the 577/450 and another hundred or so of .577 Snider, both from the parent 24 gauge brass. A lot of long slow work, but I never screw one up anymore.

Thanks, it sounds like a lot of trial and error went into this and I appreciate your sharing it!
 
The wife surprised me with a bucket list gun, a Martini Henry MK IV, Pattern C.

This means I am going to need to learn to reload for this old girl. The info above is great, and I have 20 pieces of brass.

Are people still using Goex 2F? Any other tips?
 
I still use Goex 2f. For a filler I have switched from cotton balls to cream of wheat. Most Mk IV's like a .470 bullet while Mk II's like a .468. A great way to keep fouling soft is to dip the finished round into a tub of Udderly Smooth hand cream just before chambering.
 
Thanks I'll check them out.

I'm about to pull the trigger on one of the Lee die sets. Any concerns?

You probably know this, but standard size reloading dies are 7/8" -14. The .577/450 are larger 1 1/4" - 12. I have a RCBS Rockchucker which works or the Lee Classic single stage. Those are the only two presses that I am aware of that will fit.
 
I found a place online that sells projectiles at $25 for 50. Description below.

I'll slug the bore before I buy anything but these sound pretty good.

577-450 MH 475G ROUND NOSE

50 count of our 475g round nose for the Martini Henry.

Due to the wide array of bore sizes we leave ours at .470". Cast with our soft alloy 25:1 at 10BHN
 
is the vegetable wad on top of the cotton ball necessary or can I use a 45 CAL. cardboard wad, in place of it. and do I need a grease cookie on top of the wad or under it?
 
is the vegetable wad on top of the cotton ball necessary or can I use a 45 CAL. cardboard wad, in place of it. and do I need a grease cookie on top of the wad or under it?
 
is the vegetable wad on top of the cotton ball necessary or can I use a 45 CAL. cardboard wad, in place of it. and do I need a grease cookie on top of the wad or under it?
I think any kind of wad will do. Grease cookie is optional. Recently I switched to using cream of wheat as a filler and have dispensed with the cotton ball. It us about filling the air space.
 
I have viewed your post several times. I glean something every time from it. it should be a TUTORIAL.! in the STICKEY SECTION. thank you for sharing your experence with us, toot.
 
Great tech post ! I too am ramping up supplies to cast and reload the obscure calibers post retirement (which is about 8 years away).Im still learning so im limiting myself to easier .58 cal Minnies and 45-70 .443 paper patch bullets. Its very gratifying and i totally enjoy it, and a worthwhile skillset moving foward during these stupid politically induced gun panics.
 
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