Fixing a MA M&P 45

Executive

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Looking for advice on the best way to fix the MA trigger on an M&P 45. I do not want to send it out to a gunsmith.

Has anyone used this: https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid17.html ?

I'm curious if this is enough or will I need to change the trigger spring as well?
I am also not opposed to positing the internals "the 25 cent trigger job".

Thanks for the information!

Chris
 

mlaboss

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Looking for advice on the best way to fix the MA trigger on an M&P 45. I do not want to send it out to a gunsmith.

Has anyone used this: https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid17.html ?

I'm curious if this is enough or will I need to change the trigger spring as well?
I am also not opposed to positing the internals "the 25 cent trigger job".

Thanks for the information!

Chris

I've shot an M&P with the Apex DCAEK installed and thought it was quite good.

https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid16.html
 

goodzilla

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The Apex DCAEK will bring the pull down from the 12lb to 6.5lb range. I'm getting one for my M&P9mm and have been reading up on it. Several good threads in the S&W Forum website.
 
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The way I remember it, the sear will drop it to 5, and then the trigger spring brings it back up to 6 or so.

I think on the 9mm it was 4 with the sear and then 5 with the spring.
 

mousegunfan

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The way I remember it, the sear will drop it to 5, and then the trigger spring brings it back up to 6 or so.

I think on the 9mm it was 4 with the sear and then 5 with the spring.

That's for the free state gun. The MA spring is heavier than the apex, the apex is heavier than the free state.

I leave the MA return spring in the gun as I think it gives a crisper feel, a little less mushy. This will make your pull about a half a pound heavier than the Apex. Apex sear with MA return spring is in the 6.5 to 7lbs range and feels very nice. You should add the usb for a smooth feel, but this has no affect on the pull weight.

Make sure you buy the 45 kit as it is different than the 9mm,40 one.
 

Chris

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DCAEK does the trick.

Install isn't hard. Watch the videos as they really show the process. Hardest part on mine was getting the rear sight to move. Everything else was simple.

You'll need some roll pin punches and some other simple tools, but the videos show that too. Go slow and you won't even scratch the gun.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEaVMxkp8PM

www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHr-IyejH7g

www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8J6LKkuHDI

You can also swap the Apex replacement trigger in which does feel nice, but doesn't really improve the pull.

Let me know if you need a hand, borrow punches, or anything.

Telepathically uploaded via Google implants.
 
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Executive

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why dont you want to bring it to a gunsmith? Lou charges 50-75 total to do his trigger job and will bring it down to about 5.5 lbs.

Mostly because I want to continue learning how my firearms operate. Someday I may need to do more than swap out a sear, spring, or other part.

Also, I want to do it the way I want, not what a gunsmith assumes I want it to be. I'm stubborn, fussy, and a pain in the ass.
Self reliance is a powerful thing.


Chris
 

Midnight412

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I've done the trigger job on mine with all the stock parts. I've got the "how to" file on my old PC if you want to do it yourself without buying a kit. I've got about 6.5# trigger that is nice and smooth with a positive reset.

If you really want to learn and understand how the M&P works, modifying the required stock parts will do it.

I also have the sight pusher tool if you are interested in borrowing it.
 
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Mostly because I want to continue learning how my firearms operate. Someday I may need to do more than swap out a sear, spring, or other part.

Also, I want to do it the way I want, not what a gunsmith assumes I want it to be. I'm stubborn, fussy, and a pain in the ass.
Self reliance is a powerful thing.


Chris

Self reliance IS a powerful thing!

But just to note, you are no more empowered buy buying someone else's prepackaged trigger kit ( like apex ) than having a gunsmith do a trigger job. You haven't learned anything by dropping a few pins out and installing someone else's parts. You might as well go buy Ikea furniture and call yourself a cabinet maker.

The M&P is very easy to work on and a good place to start, but you will not unlock the potential in the trigger by buying and trimming some springs and slapping them in. Lightening a trigger is easy, making a good trigger is not
 

drgrant

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Mostly because I want to continue learning how my firearms operate. Someday I may need to do more than swap out a sear, spring, or other part.

Also, I want to do it the way I want, not what a gunsmith assumes I want it to be. I'm stubborn, fussy, and a pain in the ass.
Self reliance is a powerful thing.

Installing the apex kit doesn't do this though (you're not really learning how the gun works, just replacing parts) so you're kind of contradicting your own goals. The Apex kit is a drop in solution for people who don't care about how the gun works they just want it to work better. If you actually want to know how it works, you probably should start here...
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

Frankly though you wouldn't catch me ever playing with the internals on one of these things. I'd rather just job it out to someone else if I ever bought one. It's much less likely to get botched by an expert, and once its done its done. I've ripped plenty of handguns apart (to detail strip level) and generally speaking, I ****ing hate it, even if the results of doing so are positive. I hate it the same way I hate changing my own oil. I know how to do it but it's a waste of time with a dollop of aggravation on top for good measure. [laugh]

-Mike
 
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I disagree. Installing the apex dcaek gives you a really good look at how it all works. You pull out the locking block, trigger group and sear housing unit. The last two, you actually take apart and see how it all works together. Sure, you could go through the exercise on your own without replacing parts, but installing the apex kit gives you a good reason to do it.

I spoke to Lou about doing a trigger job on the shield, but he wasn't very willing to go into detail as to how he achieves the results. I also didn't like that he rounded the striker block without first removing it. Sounds like a possibility for grit to make it into the channel. Of course, I'm probably wrong since I haven't heard any complaints wrt that.

Executive, get the APEX DCAEK. You'll love it, and it is pretty straightforward. And you will learn some ( maybe not expert level ). I'm ordering one for my new M&P 9.
 

Len-2A Training

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I highly recommend Greg Derr for this. He did a great job on my M&P 45, brought it down to 5#.

I'm not the biggest fan of the Apex trigger, having tried someone's M&P with it. When I had the work done to my M&Ps, there was no such thing as an Apex kit, but I'll say that the Apex is good but a professional gunsmithing job is superb!
 

turbo38gn

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Go for it Exec.... you got the right idea... Replacing the parts is not any different than having someone else do the same thing with massaged stock parts. Or massaging them yourself, doesn't necessarily teach you anything more on how the gun tics. The beauty of the APEX kit is you still have all your original parts if you wanted to return the gun to spec... I've installed many APEX kits and feel more than confident in my understanding of the M&P. I was able to compare the differences between the parts from APEX and the originals.

... and by the way... your guns not broke, it just has a Ma. trigger... I can still hit the bullseye with a stock trigger. When I bought my first M&P, I murdered the bullseye ... didn't know there was a diff between trigger pull and reset.... if I hadn't read it on the internet, I'd probably still love my M&P's just as much!!
 
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I disagree. Installing the apex dcaek gives you a really good look at how it all works. You pull out the locking block, trigger group and sear housing unit. The last two, you actually take apart and see how it all works together. Sure, you could go through the exercise on your own without replacing parts, but installing the apex kit gives you a good reason to do it.

I spoke to Lou about doing a trigger job on the shield, but he wasn't very willing to go into detail as to how he achieves the results. I also didn't like that he rounded the striker block without first removing it. Sounds like a possibility for grit to make it into the channel. Of course, I'm probably wrong since I haven't heard any complaints wrt that.

Executive, get the APEX DCAEK. You'll love it, and it is pretty straightforward. And you will learn some ( maybe not expert level ). I'm ordering one for my new M&P 9.

Here's one, then (complaint that is). I bought an M&P that was posited to have a Lou trigger job from BEC. It broke after a few hundred rounds down the pipe and I ended up replacing it with an Apex kit. Easy peasy. It has made me leery about taking any gun to him in the future, but I haven't heard many negative things said about his work on the forum, so maybe I just got a bad one.
 
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Here's one, then (complaint that is). I bought an M&P that was posited to have a Lou trigger job from BEC. It broke after a few hundred rounds down the pipe and I ended up replacing it with an Apex kit. Easy peasy. It has made me leery about taking any gun to him in the future, but I haven't heard many negative things said about his work on the forum, so maybe I just got a bad one.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
 
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Here's one, then (complaint that is). I bought an M&P that was posited to have a Lou trigger job from BEC. It broke after a few hundred rounds down the pipe and I ended up replacing it with an Apex kit. Easy peasy. It has made me leery about taking any gun to him in the future, but I haven't heard many negative things said about his work on the forum, so maybe I just got a bad one.

Did you take it back to Lou? He would have a record of working on the gun, I would imagine. I don't know what his warranty policy is, but did you ask, and did he offer to make it right? I've heard nothing but good things about this guy.
 

Midnight412

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MSP never had problems with the Sig P226 in either 9mm or 40 in traditional DA/SA but now current training doctrine calls for a uniform trigger pull for every shot. The went to the DAK system and that's when they had problems. I have a P229 from @1997 and it is great, also have an MP 45, no problems at all (Greg Duerr trigger job).

Like everything else YMMV.

ThePreBanMan: why not try the P227, supposedly very P226 like but in 45.
 
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