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Discussion in 'Off-Topic' started by Woodsy, Jul 12, 2019.
Got me! Lol!
Actually the "neutral" ( the grounded conductor) carries unbalanced current. So if one leg was pulling 10a and the other was pulling 8a there would be 2a on the neutral at the panel.
on the load side of the VFD lol
hmmmm, i was wondering about that...since the currents are inversed in phase.
I understand what you’re saying, but i’m not sure you’re familiar with the fact that basically every serious camper has it’s own 50’ power cord ATTACHED to the inverter. Where’s the danger with that?
But there are 4 of them. Pick any two?
Well if it was me I would just staple a white wire (if the walls and trim are white anyway) down the wall and follow the baseboard back to the CB panel.
Just use the bare wire because both the white and the bare ground ties into the same buss bar in the main panel anyway.
First, he doesnt have a neutral wire, period.
Second, if he did have a neutral wire and changed the breaker to a 2pole 20, and was drawing 20 amps on each leg (not recommended, but just talking theory) then the current on the neutral would be zero amps. If he was drawing 15 amps on one leg, and 5 on the other, the neutral current would be 5 amps.
Anyways, based on the assumed level of electrical knowledge inferred from the OPs question, the correct answer is ‘don’t do your own wiring.’
Welders don't do well on extension cords.
Specific to welders...I could understand that.
I don't ('think') i'll have much of an issue with a two stage compressor though...hopefully
Just make sure when you measure the distance to determine the proper gauge wire you go all the way to the panel. It's also safe to go up one size to be sure. Nothing with electric motors is fond of extension cords because most people don't pay attention to the details.
For my air tools I'll run a longer air hose versus running it off a cord.
"I can plug into my 3 prong Dryer outlet that would result in two 110v lines."
he has three holes in the outlet, +110V, -110V, and neutral. (By plus i mean 0 degrees phase, and - 180 degrees phase of the sine wave). In a dryer's case, almost all the current (the heater element current) comes from the +110V and returns via the -110V wire. But some, if there are any 110 V circuitry...like for the control board, would go back on the neutral wire. IF i remember correctly, the neutral is also connected to frame ground on the dryer.
Still can’t understand why he wants to go through all that when you can just easily pull a couple a new circuits
Wire says 10/3 but yes without 4 wires I have two live 1 neutral.
Yes that was my fear. Maybe I can get Glock owner to try it for me first
If it was a camper yes that would be funny, it’s a two family on the coast so no, I’m not willing to take a chance. Just thought maybe there was some device that I could use but it appears not
Called an electrician but laughed my ass off on some of the replies. NES never lets me down ....well except for the Glock and Creedmoor lovers.
Theoretically you have enough conductors to wire a singe pole circuit. The issue is the wires are the wrong color a little over sized so it would be a shitty install.
You could take some white tape and wrap it around your red wire on each end, and wire up the oversized wires to a regular singe pole 20a breaker, install a 4" box with a receptacle and call it a day...
oh the death and dismemberment that would ensue...
Re the wrong wire colors: 220 single phase compressor. Professional electrician had used black and white wire, but since it was 220, the white was not neutral. I wrapped red tape on the ends at the switchbox, and the termination at the compressor termination, so the next person won't be surprised.
Good thing that a pro did it.
Unfortunately a lazy pro
Yeah, no shit!
I did the same thing before I bought my 110v MIG. Sold the old 220v stick welder on Craig's List. Offered to throw in my DIY 220 "extension cord" for free, guy said "no thanks".......
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