Ejector dings on brass

[Keystone]

While I am not yet reloading, I've started hoarding my brass for when I actually get around to starting to reload.

While collecting my .45ACP brass today (first time I've gotten around to picking it up), I noticed there is a distinct mark on the case head. It appears the ejector is giving the brass a really good wack and leaving a mark (this is on a 1911). Some of them are fairly faint, but there are a bunch that are very noticeable.

Is this brass usable? It would definitely put a damper on my plans to reload for the gun if it destroys every piece of brass that goes through it

Unfortunately, I don't think I'd be able to get a decent picture of it, I don't have a camera that focuses well enough in close.

 

[Mr.T]

Unfortunately, I don't think I'd be able to get a decent picture of it, I don't have a camera that focuses well enough in close.

Does your camera have a "Macro" setting in the menu or on one of the selector dials? (Even some very basic cameras are offering it now) That will really help you get a sharper focus when shooting from an up close distance.

 

[Keystone]

Does your camera have a "Macro" setting in the menu or on one of the selector dials? (Even some very basic cameras are offering it now) That will really help you get a sharper focus when shooting from an up close distance.

Nope...I have a pretty basic digital camera from probably 4 years ago, at this point.

Basically, look at the case end on - looking directly at the headstamp - and pretend it is a clock. Draw a line from the 11 to the 1. A "chord," if you will. They are deep enough you can catch your fingernail in them.

 

[LoginName]

The brass as it is should be fine for reloading (it's not like it's cracked case mouths, bulged cases, etc), but without actually seeing the cases up close, that's just a guess.

I'd be more concerned as to why the ejector is leaving such deep impressions.

Is it out of spec (too long)?

Crud/grime/dirt in the hole that prevents the ejector from traveling freely?

 

[Keystone]

The brass as it is should be fine for reloading (it's not like it's cracked case mouths, bulged cases, etc), but without actually seeing the cases up close, that's just a guess.

I'd be more concerned as to why the ejector is leaving such deep impressions.

Is it out of spec (too long)?

Crud/grime/dirt in the hole that prevents the ejector from traveling freely?

I've seen a few references that similar guns to mine (Springfield Armory 1911 Mil-Spec) do the same thing. The gun really throws the brass, well over 10 feet, and anywhere from about my 2 o'clock to my 5 o'clock. I'll have to look into a potential issue with the gun a little further.

I guess I'll have to get someone to look at the brass in person before I start using it, I wasn't really expecting a definitive answer without pictures. At least I know it isn't totally hopeless, yet!

 

[Gammon]

Dents on the face of the case (where the primer is) will do nothing to the cases reliability for reloading. If the brass is being ejected a little too vigorously, you might consider a heavier recoil spring.

 

[Fixxah]

My 1911 also does that. It is not as bad as it used to be though before I filed down the offending material on the face of the slide. A gunsmith can do this and it was pointed out to me by Dave Santerre when someone else complained about the same issue.

I look at it as an indicator of how many times I have reloaded the case. It confirms my notes and lets me know if brass I have picked up may have been reloaded multiple times and is near the end of it's useful life. I have only seen it on 1911s though.

 

[copterdoctor]

My Kimber also does this. The case heads get kinda dinged up, but work very well. I have no idea how many times the cases have been reloaded. I just throw them out when the case walls crack.

 

[Keystone]

Thanks for the info, guys.

Now to create a minimal cost/minimal space reloading setup

 

[Scrivener]

Minimal (initial) cost? A used Rock Chucker or similar single-stage press.

Minimal actual cost - as in, after you get fed up with the glacial production of a single-stage compared to your pistol ammo consumption? A Dillon 550 or Hornady L-N-L.

Not that a single-stage is ever useless, but if you're looking to produce PISTOL ammo, especially something like .45, without hours of coolie labor, you WILL want a progressive. Bite the bullet now.

 

[Keystone]

Minimal (initial) cost? A used Rock Chucker or similar single-stage press.

Minimal actual cost - as in, after you get fed up with the glacial production of a single-stage compared to your pistol ammo consumption? A Dillon 550 or Hornady L-N-L.

Not that a single-stage is ever useless, but if you're looking to produce PISTOL ammo, especially something like .45, without hours of coolie labor, you WILL want a progressive. Bite the bullet now.

I'd love to, but I really don't have the space. 2 adults and a dog in a 700sqft apartment that is poorly laid out. I don't shoot a whole lot of centerfire each month, maybe a box each of .38 and.45. I'm investigating a setup that has everything I need to load and keep at least that pace on one of the calibers, all the while being easy to break down and store in a small cabinet when not in use. I'm also hoping I can get stuff that won't be totally obsoleted when we move into a larger place and I can get a decent turret or progressive. I've been looking into the Lee Hand Press. I know there is a huge amount of hatred for Lee here on the forum, but searches online for people in a similar situation to mine suggest that this is a decent option. If it doesn't work out, I'm out the $27 (less once my C&R gets here), and I'll have the rest of the stuff I need until I can get more space. I can always sell it later. I'd be able to learn the ropes of how to load, and maintain my current pace. I'm not looking for production here.

I may also just wait - we're hoping to move early next year. I have ABC's of Reloading in the mail, and I've been scouring the web for information. I can always accumulate books and brass now, and get the loading equipment once I have the space for a WizzBang 5000 progressive.

 

[swampy]

Probably 90% of my reloading gear is Lee. I've been reloading 20 years or so...a few thousand + rounds a year at least. I haven't come close to wearing any Lee equipment out yet. More expensive doesn't make a product better by default.

 

[Scrivener]

I suggest you wait until after the move.

Better quality equipment later than inadequate equipment now.

 

[Keystone]

I suggest you wait until after the move.

Better quality equipment later than inadequate equipment now.

We shall see, I have some other purchases planned. I'll get the books, hoard the brass, and if I see a good deal, maybe I'll jump on it. I'd need dies, a scale, calipers, and probably a priming tool anyway, which aside from the press and, if you get one, powder measure (dippers and a scale would be slower, but would give you the same result) are the expensive bits, anyway.

I need to do a lot more reading before I start buying things, anyway.