hypothetically speaking; if an AK (or AR for the matter) were to be duracoated, would you strip it (FCG and all) and coat the inside too? do you coat all the components (aside from springs and the like)? wouldn't that extra layer make everything tight/increase friction?
never done anything like duracoat before but just saw a couple quick vids
if you are painting a AK, strip the FCG out first. Also- plug your chamber, gas return port, and muzzle with something that will keep that shit out. Don't worry about the rear sight block- it's ok to get paint in there.
All of this "Durabake," "Duracoat", "BAKE-A-DURABLE-PAINT-AWESOME-COAT" is money wasting faggotry. Read the material make up on the side of the
****ing can. Do you see anything in there that warrants a $30 / can price point? No, you won't. It doesn't "self lubricate" either. Teflon is marketed as such... because it's a ceramic. Unless you are using a solution that has Teflon/ceramic additives in it's binder, then you are not finishing your surface with something that is "self lubricating."
All this means is that your surface finish has a lower coefficient of friction. That is it. No- there is no magical oil that secretes from this mythical/magical coating-in-a-can. It's just more friction-less. Much like your wife's teflon coated kitchenware that was made in
****ing China. And you don't see her walking around with her head up her ass telling you about her self lubricating frying pans: because she's not an idiot like you.
Before you get angry and start cussing me out- read Duracoat's
website.
1) They never tell you what it is
2) They tell you that it's not Teflon based
3) They tell you it's a 2 part chemical process. You know what else is a two part chemical process? Epoxy based paints - it has a solute and a solution.
4) They also tell you that "any old schmuck" can apply this, even without surface prep! (total bullshit)
What you are buying is a epoxy based paint and burning $23 of your hard earned dollars.
Go to home depot and buy Rustoleum Epoxy based "Appliance Paint." It's the same god damned thing. And you don't have to pay hazardous material shipping charges on it, either.
Also- baking of these finishes is a way to cure the paint. What you are doing is rapidly removing the solvent from the solution. You can do this to any epoxy based paint, and it does give you a cured surface. Is it harder? No. It is just fully cured and not readily removed from the substrate you applied it to.
If it is easily removed, you
****ed up and either painted on top of contaminants or you didn't fully cure your finish.