Dry firing your gun?

instead of a new thread, i i figure i'd resurrect this one.

last time i tried to use my MK 2 10" ( blued one) it wouldn't chamber a round. I dry fired it after reading manual that it is ok to dry fire this model as it has a firing pin block. looks like the block is no longer working, ...
The firing pin stop is not some moving part
like in a Series 80 1911 or a Glock.

The "firing pin stop" is either a solid pin or a roll pin
that goes crosswise into the bolt, through the firing pin's slot.
It precisely limits the firing pin's forward travel,
and secures the firing pin into the bolt.

Secures the firing pin as long as the bolt assembly is
itself housed in the receiver, lest the stop pin fall out.

My Mk III 22/45's firing pin stop is a solid pin, and it is loose fit -
will easily fall out if the bolt is removed from the receiver, held horizontal,
and rolled 90° left or right (rolled to 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock).

This is what a damaged pin looks like:
FPstopdamage.JPG

(Probably came out of a 10/22, but let that go).

That pin did not naturally have an equatorial groove -
that is wear.

That pin is not naturally bent -
that probably came from firing pin strikes where the stop pin
is weakened from the wear.

Your manual says:
REASSEMBLY​
...
5. Slide bolt (recoil spring upward) fully into receiver. NOTE: Before sliding bolt into receiver, BE CERTAIN that the firing pin stop (part number A03500, a small pin) is in the bolt. Without this pin, the first time the trigger is pulled on an assembled pistol, the firing pin will fly so far forward so as to irreparably dent the rear end of the chamber of the barrel, making the pistol useless. (See Figure 5).​
(Emphases mine).

If someone was intent on doing nothing but clean the barrel
(or clear a squib), and had a snug fit roll pin (or a wear-bent pin),
they could casually field strip the pistol without risking loss of the pin.

But with a loose fit pin of either design,
it would be pure luck to not dislodge the pin
during a regular cleaning of a field stripped gun.

The stop pin is not spring-loaded, but has no natural urge
to stay in the bolt, and particularly if it is lubricated,
will be perfectly glad to fall out if the bolt isn't held level.

(In a regular cleaning, one would actually want to remove
the recoil spring assembly, stop pin, firing pin, rebound spring,
and rebound spring support, to clean them
and the bolt's firing pin channel).

I think it's easier to forget to replace the stop pin after cleaning,
or lose the stop pin and not notice its absence,
than it is to damage the stop pin so much that the chamber gets peened.

I'm no gunsmith. But Ruger calls out making sure the stop pin
is in the bolt during reassembly. It may be mainly because of how
expensive a failure can be. But it must happen pretty often in their experience.

Sorry for your troubles. There but for the grace of God goes I.


as it really boogered up the chamber wall, and now will not allow a round to enter into the chamber.
Yeah, you've been peened, sigh.

Ruger is asking to see it, they said if it not repairable they may offer me a MK4 replacement.
Someplace on the Intarwebs (and sorry, but I can't find it),
someone mentioned repairing a divot by welding on new metal,
then removing everything that wasn't supposed to be there.

They added metal because the trailing edge of the chamber is
the anvil that supports the case rim,
allowing the firing pin to hammer the rim's primer.
The longitudinal divot was causing failure to fire.

The guy may have been a gunsmith,
or taken his pistol to a master gunsmith.

If your problem is failure-to-extract (or failure to feed),
but not failure-to-fire, then maybe the chamber
only needs to be deburred.

I can imagine a world where Ruger will polish away a burr
but won't weld/grind/polish a notch to resurrect a roached barrel -
even if master gunsmiths can do a good job of that.

So depending on whether or not you're willing to go for the
fallback of a Mk IV upgrade, you might look for a regional master gunsmith
who is willing to rebuild the chamber breech if Ruger won't do it.

I'm not disparaging the Mk IV. But I don't know
if your Mk II has sentimental value, or if Ruger would
charge you something significant for a replacement IV.

I don't know of a Ruger pistol master gunsmith.
If I had to find one for me, I'd chat up my club's Bullseye team members.


When I first got my ruger lc9s, my son and daughter used to set up cans and shoot them with a snap cappish dummy round with a red light. Hit the can on the bulls eye and knock it down.

After I would say 1000 dry fires, the firing pin broke.

Ruger was great. Took it back and returned it fully restored for free. Not in the box said to avoid dry firing with a snap cap. And to avoid dry firing it period.
Very interesting. Your manual says:
DRY FIRING​
Going through the actions of cocking, aiming and pulling the trigger on an unloaded gun is known as “dry firing.” It can be useful to learn the “feel” of your pistol. Practice this important aspect of safe gun handling with an unloaded pistol until you can perform each of the steps described below with skill and confidence. Be certain that the pistol is fully unloaded (both the chamber and magazine are empty) and that the pistol is pointing in a safe direction even when you are practicing dry firing. The RUGER® LC9s® pistol can be dry-fired in moderation without damage to the striker or other components as long as an empty or inert magazine is inserted.​
(Emphasis theirs).
2x7au8.jpg
 
Sounds like a titanium firing pin "stop" is in order...?
Something stronger without being brittle would be a net upgrade.
(Don't want to wear the firing pin's longitudinal slot, either;
upgrade both or neither?)

A most excellent post AHM... Thank you.
De nada. I'll be glad if I didn't subtract anything from the dialogue
with a bum steer.
 
Something stronger without being brittle would be a net upgrade.
(Don't want to wear the firing pin's longitudinal slot, either;
upgrade both or neither?)

Tandemkross has a Titanium firing pin for short dough. The pin diameter might be a common size, and it is possible to trim a length of that size titanium rod to fit...

TK has a kit that comes with 5 rebound springs, a "Fire-Starter" titanium firing pin and an improved "Eagle's Claw" titanium extractor for $37.99 (maintenance combo saves $5)

Here's what TK says about the Ti firing pin:
The TANDEMKROSS "Fire Starter" Titanium firing pin is a drop in replacement for the factory firing pin. A titanium firing pin is lighter (40%) and moves faster than a heavier steel pin. This reduces lock time and allows the gun to go off faster which can help to improve accuracy. The lighter titanium pin is resistant to mushrooming and will provide repeatability with positive primer strikes. With less deformation of the casing due to the lighter weight of the firing pin it can also lead to better extraction. The stability of titanium over steel makes it an ideal choice of material when operating in extreme heat or cold conditions.

A 40% lighter firing pin might alone, decrease deformation of the barrel's chamber...

Ruger® MK Series Essential Upgrades Kit | TANDEMKROSS

iu
 
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.
This is what a damaged pin looks like:
FPstopdamage.JPG

I have an old shotgun that was given to me years ago. Person who gave it to me said they used to let their kids "play with it". Yeah, those were different times.

Anyway, those buggers must have dry fired the Hell out of the thing, and it's FP pin looked like that - but worse.
 
When I first got my ruger lc9s, my son and daughter used to set up cans and shoot them with a snap cappish dummy round with a red light. Hit the can on the bulls eye and knock it down.

After I would say 1000 dry fires, the firing pin broke.

I had the same experience with a Laserlyte cartridge in an LC9s. Actually, it happened twice. The first time I didn't attribute it to the Laserlyte. The second time I did, so I stopped using the Laserlyte cartridge. And I don't dry fire it very much. Haven't had an issue since. I'm not sure dry firing is the real culprit there. The firing pin on that gun is rather long, and my theory was that when the switch would bottom out, the pad on top of the switch would slide to one side or the other, putting some lateral stress on the pin. Lateral stress on an extended firing pin is not good. Obviously a real primer can't do that, but maybe neither can an empty chamber. Maybe a snap cap could, but I think it's probably lateral play in the switch that wouldn't really be there with any solid material.
 
Call me crazy.....but how would you dry fire it if the safety IS on?
With the safety on the hammer still falls.....just goes click, no pew pew, and were you to be pointing the gun at a giant buck when you dropped the hammer on the safety that click would be the loudest click the world has ever heard.
whitetail.jpg
 
With the safety on the hammer still falls.....just goes click, no pew pew, and were you to be pointing the gun at a giant buck when you dropped the hammer on the safety that click would be the loudest click the world has ever heard.
View attachment 276876
Thanks for the 411.

I own a few lever actions......none with any safety other than the hammer half cock.
 
Tandemkross has a Titanium firing pin for short dough. The pin diameter might be a common size, and it is possible to trim a length of that size titanium rod to fit...
Good catch.
<Ruger Mark 3 Bolt disassembly and assembly>
Very helpful video (although it understates the difficulty I have getting the extractor out). But he's 0 for 4 in referring to springs under compression
as "tension".

Careful. You keep that up and the next thing you know, you'll be carrying those 1911's on half cock too. lol.
Worse: Condition 2.
ETA: Rationale:
Screwing around using the half-cock notch,
especially a deep cut (rather than shelf)
is a good way to mess up the sear (right?)

But there's no 100% safe way to lower the hammer to enter Condition 2.

An ND from a hammer that gets away from you when you're trying to lower it
outweighs a messed up sear...

(And in the Longmire episode we're just starting,
he cocks his 1911 when realizing that the guy who phoned for help
is not behind the counter at his gas station,
and lowers the hammer when he finds the guy's concealed body).
 
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Good catch.

Very helpful video (although it understates the difficulty I have getting the extractor out). But he's 0 for 4 in referring to springs under compression
as "tension".


Worse: Condition 2.
ETA: Rationale:
Screwing around using the half-cock notch,
especially a deep cut (rather than shelf)
is a good way to mess up the sear (right?)

But there's no 100% safe way to lower the hammer to enter Condition 2.

An ND from a hammer that gets away from you when you're trying to lower it
outweighs a messed up sear...

(And in the Longmire episode we're just starting,
he cocks his 1911 when realizing that the guy who phoned for help
is not behind the counter at his gas station,
and lowers the hammer when he finds the guy's concealed body).
This stuff about "no safe way" of lowering the hammer to half cock on a loaded chamber always made me curious. Don't get me wrong.....I'd never carry a 1911 in condition 2......that's just dumb. But the whole "danger danger" thing about lowering the hammer to half cock.......I have 2 lever action long guns.......a shotgun and a 22.......and a single shot shotgun.......that literally are carried hammer down loaded chamber. The owners manual specifically states how do safely lower the hammer after loading the gun. When I hunt with my levers......load the gun......thumb the hammer.....pull the trigger to release the hammer.....immediately release the trigger.....slowly lower the hammer to half cock.

Why is it Danger danger on a 1911 but on lever action rifles it's ok?

FYI....I'm not saying it's ok to carry condition 2 by any means. Just wondering why the 1911 crowd says omagurd don't ever lower a hammer on a loaded gun but lever action rifles and single shot shotguns it's designed to do exactly that.
 
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Why is it Danger danger on a 1911 but on lever action rifles it's ok?

I don't own a 1911, so I'm sure there's a lot I don't know about the edge cases of their operation. I certainly haven't experimented with lowering the hammer on one manually. I'll try to remember to do that without a live round in the chamber next time I shoot one.

But I do know that lever action rifles there tend to have either a half-cock or transfer bar safety and a fairly large hammer spur that is far enough from the axis of rotation that it's easy to operate. Lowering the hammer is easy if you know to hold it back and then release the trigger after lowering the hammer past the sear. Modern 1911 hammers don't look to me like they're designed to be directly manipulated. The spur is short, and it's pretty close to the axis of rotation, which would seem to make it harder to control. AFAIK, if you accidentally drop the hammer while lowering it, the 1911 goes off with your thumb behind the slide. I don't know what that will do to the thumb, but I'm guessing you're at least going to be dropping the gun when it goes off. Lever action rifles don't have reciprocating slides.

Is a 1911 safe with the hammer lowered on a live round in the first place?
 
Is a 1911 safe with the hammer lowered on a live round in the first place?

Yes. I assume you are talking about a series 70 style 1911, which does not have a firing pin safety. The 1911 has a firing pin retaining spring, which keeps the firing pin off the primer and keeps the end of the firing pin a few mm proud of the rear of the slide. When you lower the hammer manually, the face of the hammer is flat against the rear of the slide and the firing pin has been depressed slightly. The force from a smack on the hammer at this point will primarily go into the slide, not the firing pin.

That said, series 70 1911s are not drop safe. If you drop one from a not very high height onto a hard surface, the firing pin inertia will overpower the firing pin retaining spring and cause the gun to fire. With a standard firing pin and firing pin retaining spring, that can be as little as 4’. Changing to a lighter titanium firing pin and extra power firing pin retaining spring will significantly increase the height required for a discharge.

That said, there is absolutely no reason to ever decock a 1911 on a live round, or to carry at half-cock. If a cocked hammer gives you the willies, then get something other than a 1911.

Concerning safety of decocking, yes it can be done safely. If done without paying attention, it can result in an ND. It is certainly less safe than simply applying the safety.
 
FYI....I'm not saying it's ok to carry condition 2 by any means. Just wondering why the 1911 crowd says omagurd don't ever lower a hammer on a loaded gun but lever action rifles and single shot shotguns it's designed to do exactly that.

Thumbing down the hammer on a loaded 1911 is like sniffing glue. You can do it and survive, but it makes you retarded.
 
Thumbing down the hammer on a loaded 1911 is like sniffing glue. You can do it and survive, but it makes you retarded.
I agree. Applying the safety is intrinsically more safe than lowering the hammer.

However
My question is not answered. There are 1911 guys that say lowering the hammer on a loaded chamber CANNOT be done safely....meaning one might slip and release their thumb with finger on the trigger and Nd. While all three of the fire arms I mentioned in my post that I own and hunt with will go off if your thumb slips on the hammer with finger on trigger......and that is the precise manual of arms for operating that fire arm. You just need to pay attention.

It's just my observation.
 
I agree.

However
My question is not answered. There are 1911 guys that say lowering the hammer on a loaded chamber cannot be done safely....meaning one might slip and release their thumb with finger on the trigger and Nd. While all three of the fire arms I mentioned in my post that I own and hunt with will go off if your thumb slips on the hammer with finger on trigger......and that is the precise manual of arms for operating that fire arm. You just need to pay attention.

It's just my observation.

They're wrong. You literally can thumb down the hammer safely on a loaded 1911, just like any DA revolver or lever gun. If your thumb slips and you're not pressing the trigger, it will slam into half cock and probably mess up your sear, but not fire. We do it with CZs in competition all the time. But there's no valid reason to do so on a 1911 because it's SA only, and is safe with a cocked hammer and safety on.
 
They're wrong. You literally can thumb down the hammer safely on a loaded 1911, just like any DA revolver or lever gun. If your thumb slips and you're not pressing the trigger, it will slam into half cock and probably mess up your sear, but not fire. We do it with CZs in competition all the time. But there's no valid reason to do so on a 1911 because it's SA only, and is safe with a cocked hammer and safety on.
Guess that's what I was looking for.

I'll add that on my lever actions that I hunt with......when I load up I ALWAYS point the gun in a safe direction after loading before lowering the hammer. My uncles friend shot a hole in the driver's seat of his car loading his 30-30 Henry up to go deer hunting up in NH. Thumb slipped......blam!
 
huh! never heard of the glock cracked breechface before, shit! i still own 3 gen 2's i bought new in '92-93 and all have been dry fired a ton. as are my 3's and 4's. i started using snap caps in my semi autos a couple of years ago, but still.... my knock about glock at the moment is one of my old gen 2 19 slides on a gen 3 frame. i have a habit of just sitting and dry firing it while i'm idle, tv watching, etc. this with no snap cap for some reason. for yucks i'm gonna take a real close look at it tonight.
 
They're wrong. You literally can thumb down the hammer safely on a loaded 1911, just like any DA revolver or lever gun. If your thumb slips and you're not pressing the trigger, it will slam into half cock and probably mess up your sear, but not fire. We do it with CZs in competition all the time. But there's no valid reason to do so on a 1911 because it's SA only, and is safe with a cocked hammer and safety on.
I agree. Applying the safety is intrinsically more safe than lowering the hammer.

However
My question is not answered. There are 1911 guys that say lowering the hammer on a loaded chamber CANNOT be done safely....meaning one might slip and release their thumb with finger on the trigger and Nd. While all three of the fire arms I mentioned in my post that I own and hunt with will go off if your thumb slips on the hammer with finger on trigger......and that is the precise manual of arms for operating that fire arm. You just need to pay attention.

It's just my observation.
This, there is no difference. It just comes down to ignoring accepted doctrine of the firearm you use.You aren't going to carry that lever gun every day and are following accepted doctrine for it to be used safely (though most lever gun designs significantly predate a lot of safety devices beyond half-cock). The 1911 has multiple safeties and choosing to ignore them is to ignore using the whole platform in its accepted form. (I am aware of the original designs lacking some of those safeties though) It'd be pretty similar to owning a double set trigger and carrying the hunting rifle with it staged already. You could, but shouldn't. Like Bill O posted you could thumb roll like a CZ, but that'd be wasting a time.
Ignoring safety repercussions, in relation to response time engaging a 1911 hammer is much more difficult than cocking the hammer on a lever gun. ;)
 
They're wrong. You literally can thumb down the hammer safely on a loaded 1911, just like any DA revolver or lever gun. If your thumb slips and you're not pressing the trigger, it will slam into half cock and probably mess up your sear, but not fire. We do it with CZs in competition all the time. But there's no valid reason to do so on a 1911 because it's SA only, and is safe with a cocked hammer and safety on.

It can be done safely, but I think it does increase risk. I’ve never had an ND with a 1911 while applying the safety. I have had an ND while lowering the hammer on my CZ.

I was practicing in a shooting pit with my Shadow 2, doing a lot of repetitions of draw, fire two shots, decock, holster. I got sloppy while decocking and had an ND. Fortunately, I had the gun pointed at the berm, so nothing damaged other than my pride.

As a result, I am much more deliberate while decocking. It is not something to be taken lightly.
 
This stuff about "no safe way" of lowering the hammer to half cock on a loaded chamber always made me curious. Don't get me wrong.....I'd never carry a 1911 in condition 2......that's just dumb.
If I was too nervous about carrying in Condition One,
then I'd consider Condition Two - if it weren't for the risk in getting there.
Because while cocking the hammer in an emergency is harder than
sweeping the safety off, it's still easier than racking the slide
(unless you're Mossad; maybe).

As a matter of fact, if (if) Israel used a truly rational decision making process to standardize on Condition Three, they ought to have an official rationale on why they rejected Condition Two. And I'd love to read it.

But the whole "danger danger" thing about lowering the hammer to half cock.......I have 2 lever action long guns.......a shotgun and a 22.......and a single shot shotgun.......that literally are carried hammer down loaded chamber. The owners manual specifically states how do safely lower the hammer after loading the gun. When I hunt with my levers......load the gun......thumb the hammer.....pull the trigger to release the hammer.....immediately release the trigger.....slowly lower the hammer to half cock.

Why is it Danger danger on a 1911 but on lever action rifles it's ok?

FYI....I'm not saying it's ok to carry condition 2 by any means. Just wondering why the 1911 crowd says omagurd don't ever lower a hammer on a loaded gun but lever action rifles and single shot shotguns it's designed to do exactly that.

I did modest web searches on "negligent discharge decocking rifle"
and "negligent discharge rifle lowering hammer",
and Google did not puke up a litany of war stories
as high value results.

I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but the frequency is lower than
the intarweb noise about people arguing about the issue on pistols,
revolvers, and the distinction between an AD and an ND.

It may even mean that no matter how many people own rifles with external
hammers nowadays, they just don't use them as much as handguns, AR's,
etc. One thing I have not tripped over on YoutUbe are Texas hog hunts
where someone's going Full Chuck Connors on a herd of hogs. I mean no
disrespect to vintage longarm designs, or Cowboy sports, or traditional
big game hunting - I'm just wondering if there are fewer people actually
finger-<bleep>ing those longarms (which is the easiest way to reduce ND's
is to stop handling loaded guns).

Or not.

But I did look at a modern 1894 manual just now, and it definitely doesn't have
any secret sauce for decocking. As a matter of fact, they teach it to be done single-handed. And that reminds me a little too much of the old 70's (SNL?) phony ad for a four-button LED watch where the announcer narrates the steps to display the time, as the hand-model's right hand comes in and starts pushing and holding various single buttons, then various pairs of buttons...and then the actor's other left hand comes in from off-screen to pulse the third and then fourth button!

I don't own a 1911, so I'm sure there's a lot I don't know about the edge cases of their operation. I certainly haven't experimented with lowering the hammer on one manually. I'll try to remember to do that without a live round in the chamber next time I shoot one.

Turn aside and check out this 2012 thread on The High Road:


At least and especially the war story by the OP
(who joined the forum to post the story, based on dates).

Plenty of wisdom and history and humor in that thread.

AFAIK, if you accidentally drop the hammer while lowering it, the 1911 goes off with your thumb behind the slide. I don't know what that will do to the thumb, but I'm guessing you're at least going to be dropping the gun when it goes off.

BTW, there's at least one demonstration video on YoutUbe of someone firing a
semi-auto while manually holding the slide closed. I think it's a Glock.
No big deal. If the slide built up a head of steam it would cut your finger,
but holding the slide in battery didn't rip the guy's left arm off at the shoulder.

... series 70 1911s are not drop safe. ... Changing to a lighter titanium firing pin and extra power firing pin retaining spring will significantly increase the height required for a discharge.
(Series 70 design with titanium firing pin and beefier spring is how the Ruger 1911's come from the factory. And they pass the Mass drop tests).

That said, there is absolutely no reason to ever decock a 1911 on a live round, or to carry at half-cock. If a cocked hammer gives you the willies, then get something other than a 1911.

Concerning safety of decocking, yes it can be done safely. If done without paying attention, it can result in an ND. It is certainly less safe than simply applying the safety.

  • "I knew what I was doing, and I had just finished doing it 199 times correctly, but the last time I was going to do it before I put the pistol away I must have been tired, and darn, my finger slipped".
  • "I wanted to make my pistol safe because <something> (e.g., a failed mugging) had made me very upset, but I had an ND safing the pistol because I didn't do it right because I was upset".

Those are a couple of very common failure modes.
2xadzt.jpg
 
If I was too nervous about carrying in Condition One,
then I'd consider Condition Two - if it weren't for the risk in getting there.

If I was nervous about carrying in condition one (I'm not, I carried 1911s for years), I'd just get a different gun. There are so many good options, including striker-fired guns like Glocks and DA/SA with decockers like SIG P-Series.

(Series 70 design with titanium firing pin and beefier spring is how the Ruger 1911's come from the factory. And they pass the Mass drop tests).

Yup. Note, it will still go off if dropped from enough height onto the muzzle. The lighter firing pin and stronger firing pin spring have increased that height, but have not eliminated the risk. I've done the same on my 1911s. I'm not terribly worried about this as I tend not to drop my guns (a holstered gun is a safe gun), but drop safety is a real issue on series 70 style 1911s. We shouldn't exaggerate this issue but neither should we ignore it.

  • "I knew what I was doing, and I had just finished doing it 199 times correctly, but the last time I was going to do it before I put the pistol away I must have been tired, and darn, my finger slipped".
  • "I wanted to make my pistol safe because <something> (e.g., a failed mugging) had made me very upset, but I had an ND safing the pistol because I didn't do it right because I was upset".

You really have to be paying attention when decocking manually. It isn't something I would want to do in the middle of an adrenaline dump. When I'm at a USPSA match with my Shadow 2 during the load and make ready portion, I'm seriously focused on decocking carefully.
 
They're wrong. You literally can thumb down the hammer safely on a loaded 1911, just like any DA revolver or lever gun. If your thumb slips and you're not pressing the trigger, it will slam into half cock and probably mess up your sear, but not fire. We do it with CZs in competition all the time. But there's no valid reason to do so on a 1911 because it's SA only, and is safe with a cocked hammer and safety on.

I thought in USPSA though in production you gotta lower the hammer all the way down.... with a shadow, etc. Whereas with a BD you're just allowed to decock it and it goes into the HC notch...

-Mike
 
If I was nervous about carrying in condition one (I'm not, I carried 1911s for years), I'd just get a different gun.
Yep, at least one writer in that THR thread told the thread's OP that.

Note, it will still go off if dropped from enough height onto the muzzle.
Yeah; as I commented in Jan'16, I wish guns were drop safe from at least as high as you can reach, if not at least as high as you can throw them. (Probably totally impractical when just monkeying with inertial parameters, but it would be a relatively objective measure).

You really have to be paying attention when decocking manually. It isn't something I would want to do in the middle of an adrenaline dump. When I'm at a USPSA match with my Shadow 2 during the load and make ready portion, I'm seriously focused on decocking carefully.
^This.
 
... a modern 1894 manual [teaches decocking] to be done single-handed. And that reminds me a little too much of the old 70's (SNL?) phony ad for a four-button LED watch where the announcer narrates the steps to display the time, as the hand-model's right hand comes in and starts pushing and holding various single buttons, then various pairs of buttons...and then the actor's other left hand comes in from off-screen to pulse the third and then fourth button!
Sort of like this.
NINTCHDBPICT000480085662.jpg
 
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