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Dry firing .22 revolver

Do not dry fire a S&W 617. If you do so, you will beat your firing pin against the edge of the cylinder chamber and can damage both the pin and the chamber. As a rule, never dry fire a 22 in any model and you'll be safe.
 
Snap caps are good to use. The problem you will find is that the snap caps will get chewed up along the edge very quickly and need to be discarded. Probably cheaper to use empty cases and turn them so the pin doesn't keep hitting the same spot all the time. But, you have to be very careful that those are empty cases every time you use them and not a live round. Some folks use plastic anchors that are made for anchoring screws in concrete.

I just don't bother doing dry fire with 22. It's just not worth the hassle.
 
Mike Carmoney would disagree with you.

The factory pin on a 617 is different that the pin used on the centerfire guns. The groove on the side of the 617 pin is designed to stop forward movement of the pin before the tip contacts the edge of the chamber mouths. Sometimes this limited range of movement seems to inhibit the full ignition potential on rimfire ammo.

He did my 617 trigger. He says it's fine to dry fire with the factory (lawyered) firing pin. If he swaps it out for a cylinder & slide extended firing pin it will damage your cylinder in no time.

The Ruger's (mkIII at least) have a firing pin stop.
 
To all you nonbelievers out there and to those who want to continue to dry fire their 22 guns. Below is a direct quote from the FAQ section of S&W's web site. It clearly states the answer to the OP's question. Believe it or not.

Link: http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...750001_750051_757815_-1_757814_757812_image#2

Quote:
Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.
 
FWIW, I dry fire all my .22s excessively, and I've never seen any damage done. This includes my 617.
 
You never want to dry fire any rimfire gun (.22 & some older stuff). All you're doing is hammering the pin against the edge of the chamber. Why would you want to dry fire it anyway?
 
Why would you? Is recoil flinch a problem? Get a BB gun.

Why would you want to dry fire it anyway?

To practice trigger control. It's free and you don't have to go to the range to do it.

You never want to dry fire any rimfire gun (.22 & some older stuff). All you're doing is hammering the pin against the edge of the chamber.

Many rimfires, including the Ruger Mk series pistols and 10/22 rifles have firing pin stops

Can I dry fire my Mark III pistol?
Yes. The Mark III has a firing pin stop that prevents the firing pin from contacting the rear of the barrel and damaging the edge of the chamber. If you are going to dry fire the pistol extensively, the stop pin and firing pin will eventually wear and contact could occur, and we recommend replacing both the firing pin and the firing pin stop from time to time. You should also monitor the contact of the firing pin with the rear of the barrel

Can I dry fire my Ruger rifle?
Yes. All Ruger rifles can be dry fired without damage, and dry firing can be useful to familiarize the owner with the firearm. However, be sure any firearm is completely unloaded before dry firing!

S&W tells you not to dry fire their rimfires (including the 617). However, many competitive shooters and some gunsmiths dry fire regularly (with the stock S&W firing pin, not an extended after market one)
 
You never want to dry fire any rimfire gun (.22 & some older stuff). All you're doing is hammering the pin against the edge of the chamber.

This is true on some guns, but not all.

If the firing pin touches the edge of the chamber, don't ever dry fire it. If it can't, don't worry about it.

The potential damage is the firing pin getting mushroomed and the edge of the chamber getting distorted.

For instance, here
Savage-23A.jpg

is the chamber of a Savage 23A that's been dry fired a lot. You can see the messed up chamber pretty easily.

And here:
marlin-60.jpg

is the chamber of a Mossberg 60 that's also been dry fired a lot. The arrow points to where the firing pin hits the primer. Note there's no indication at all of impact.

And here:
new-line-close.jpg

Is a view of a Colt New-Line (from 1880 something) with the hammer as forward as it can go. You can clearly see that there's no way the hammer will hit the chamber. Also safe to dry fire.


Why would you want to dry fire it anyway?

Same reason you'd dry fire any gun, to make sure you're not flinching, or pulling, or twisting, or moving it in any other way when the trigger breaks. Simply working on timing is useful.

It's not about recoil. A TOZ-35 has built into it a safe way to dry fire it. If olympic target shooters that shoot guns that have not quite zero recoil and trigger weights measured in grams find it useful to dry-fire practice, clearly there's a legitimate reason to do so.
 
There is also a danger of outright breaking the firing pin. Happened to me, years ago, before I knew better. I snapped the pin on a bolt action Stevens by dry firing.
 
There is also a danger of outright breaking the firing pin. Happened to me, years ago, before I knew better. I snapped the pin on a bolt action Stevens by dry firing.

I had the pin break on an M&P (really weird, the very tip just fell off, S&W sent me a new one) and in a Mossberg 5500 Mk II. Both really surprised me.

Does *anyone* make a decent .22LR snap cap that doesn't get destroyed by dry firing?

I imagine something made out of Delrin or .... I dunno, something sturdy that'll flex back after compression.
 
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