Do you trust the red dot mount on your handgun? Maybe you shouldn't......

Rockrivr1

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Well, this guy handled the failure like a champ during his drill. Though I wouldn't be happy with how easily the optic came flying off the gun. Makes you wondering if you can trust the mounting plate with some of these handguns.

 
Had an issue in a steel frenzy class at Sig. My error as the mounting screws were too short but I really wanted to use my new X5. Lucky that when it decided to swan dive into the sand it was at the end of the day, 5-600 rounds in. Even found the tiny screws.
 
@Rockrivr1 the only reason I laughed at your post is because when I saw it a video replayed in my head mentally there was this guy here on NES who had a shotgun with a red dot on it at one of the very early car shoots or something and there's a visual of him like shooting the thing and the Red Dot scope just came tumbling off the gun and he looks at the gun, dumbfounded. There was actually video of it but the guy somehow or another got it deleted. @Dench knows what im talking about.
 
Screws can fail. Mount it properly. Use Loctite. Apply witness marks. Each time you holster your gun, inspect that the red dot is on, that the witness marks haven’t moved, and grip the red dot to check for any wiggle (screws holding the plate which aren’t visible could have loosened).

While I’m not a fan of more footprints, I think Glock’s new COA mount is a better idea than the MOS plate system.
 
The blue stuff?
You should use the blue, 242.

Don't go by color, number is what matters. Although 242 is blue.

Anyway ... if your CCW is a Glock, and this is a concern, I would buy a second slide and use RED (263). That stuff will never fall. Having a spare slide in case the dot breaks one day is worth the piece of mind since the CCW is a tool to save my life.

I did that with my Buckmark for completion. I was tired of the sight getting loose, so I used red loctite. F*ck it. So worth it, specially since replacing that part is less than $200.
 
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You should use the blue, 242.

Don't go by color, number is what matters. Although 242 is blue.

Anyway ... if your CCW is a Glock, and this is a concern, I would buy a second slide and use RED. That stuff will never fall. Having a spare slide in case the dot breaks one day is worth the piece of mind since the CCW is a tool to save my life.

I did that with my Buckmark for completion. I was tired of the sight getting loose, so I used red loctite. F*ck it. So worth it, specially since replacing that part is less than $200.
Thanks for info
 
Blue Loctite and similar products often fail because they are not appropriate for the application, i.e., small screws. If you want to do it right, you'd use green 290 plus the primer 7649. 290 is for small screws like those used for red dot mounts and is a wicking thread locker. Blue (which also comes in an oil resistant version btw) is for larger screws.
 
No windshields for me thanks.

If I even thought about it would be direct mount only red loctite longest screws that would work. Don't care if I had to heat them with soldering iron
to get it off after.
 
You should use the blue, 242.

Don't go by color, number is what matters. Although 242 is blue.

Anyway ... if your CCW is a Glock, and this is a concern, I would buy a second slide and use RED (263). That stuff will never fall. Having a spare slide in case the dot breaks one day is worth the piece of mind since the CCW is a tool to save my life.

I did that with my Buckmark for completion. I was tired of the sight getting loose, so I used red loctite. F*ck it. So worth it, specially since replacing that part is less than $200.
I use Loctite 222, the purple one. Weaker than blue. For small screws. Etc.
 
I use Loctite 222, the purple one. Weaker than blue. For small screws. Etc.
I was using 222 because the base is aluminum. It s*cked. It was getting loose on a Buck Mark, a .22 LOL.

So I went straight to red. But only for the base that attaches to the barrel. The red dot uses blue 242. Now it is basically welded, will never move again. If I ever want to switch to irons, all I have to do is buy a new barrel for $200 or so.
 
I was using 222 because the base is aluminum. It s*cked. It was getting loose on a Buck Mark, a .22 LOL.

So I went straight to red. But only for the base that attaches to the barrel. The red dot uses blue 242. Now it is basically welded, will never move again. If I ever want to switch to irons, all I have to do is buy a new barrel for $200 or so.
I haven't had any problems yet, rmr and sro on a g45 and g34. Granted i haven't put a shit load of rounds through it (maybe 500 each?). Will update if goes south.
 
Handgun optics are for paper punching / plate dinging games. Alternatively they can be found on guns owned by 'operators'. You can differentiate between the two via the scratches obtained by operators performing their tactical rolls. Either that or the glazed donut residue.
 
Handgun optics are for paper punching / plate dinging games. Alternatively they can be found on guns owned by 'operators'. You can differentiate between the two via the scratches obtained by operators performing their tactical rolls. Either that or the glazed donut residue.
My handgun with an optic does lines of pre-workout in the holster. Cuts my splits in half, I tell you wut.
 
Trijicon needs to skinflint less and include longer screws with their RCR. Fuggen thing flew off and hit me in the forehead because the screws were too short for my M&P. I had to buy their extra screw set. Lame.

You didnt notice the screws were too short prior to installation ?
 
Sharing because why not.

A company sent me this with an order. Notice the Chinese knock off.

Instead of 242, it is 243.
The letters LOC look exactly like what Loctite uses.
Even the bottle colors are the same.

View attachment 986092

While that appears to be a knockoff, Loctite does have a 243. It’s an updated version of 242.

Does President Trump know there’s a locvfefe?
 
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