Dillon .223 Taper Crimp Die

[Slowdive]

I just noticed that I have a .223 Taper Crimp Die in my Dillon die set.

Why would anyone need this? I Googled it, and I can't find anyone who actually uses it. I've never roll crimped or taper crimped a rimless rifle cartridge before and most re loaders I know don't.

Gotta be good for something?

 

[Gammon]

I just noticed that I have a .223 Taper Crimp Die in my Dillon die set.

Why would anyone need this? I Googled it, and I can't find anyone who actually uses it. I've never roll crimped or taper crimped a rimless rifle cartridge before and most re loaders I know don't.

Gotta be good for something?

You can crimp some bullets with this die. In order to crimp, the bullet must have a cannelure (that line of grooves around the base) which gives the crimped brass somewhere to go. Crimping bullets without a cannelure can deform them which can hurt accuracy.

I use a slight crimp on cannelured bullets and no crimp on bullets with no cannelure. I have noticed no difference in performance between the two, so I can't say whether this crimping is necessary or beneficial.

 

[dustoff22]

I put a slight crimp in my .223 rounds using the mentioned Taper Crimp Die simply to insure bullets stay put while feeding into my AR's chamber. Necessary? Don't know but the die came with the set and was there presumably for a reason. As mentioned......I use it with cannelured bullets.

 

[Slowdive]

Thanks..how would a taper crimp work w/ a cannelure? I get a how a roll crimp works w/ one.

ETA: While usually used to avoid bullet setback, I did find a few on other forums that use this die when they have feed problems in auto loaders, presumably from a tight chamber in the neck. It's almost like they are using it as a poor mans neck turning alternative? Seems to me you run the risk of deforming the bullet.

On a pistol round, you need the taper to take out the bell; but there is no such requirement on a bottleneck rifle?

 

[DukeInFlorida]

Yes, Taper crimp dies (Lee calls them a "factory crimp die") will squeeze the brass enough to compress any jacketed bullet.
So, yes, you could use them with out a cannelure on the bullet.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Yes, Taper crimp dies (Lee calls them a "factory crimp die") will squeeze the brass enough to compress any jacketed bullet.
So, yes, you could use them with out a cannelure on the bullet.

I've seen that in Lee's literature. I'm not sure though if it's ever a good idea to deform a perfectly good bullet with a crimp die.

When loading cannelured bullets, a crimp can help even out sloppy reloading practices and improve your groups.

If you're using cheap bullets, unsorted, untrimmed brass, and/or mixed brass that's been fired a different amount of times, a crimp can help make the bullet pull more consistent.

But if you sort your brass by headstamp and number of times fired, trim it to the same length, use good bullets and a good seating die, you're unlikely to see any improvement by crimping the rounds.

 

[Slowdive]

I'm not sure though if it's ever a good idea to deform a perfectly good bullet with a crimp die.

This has always been my thinking too, that's why I was surprised the taper die comes standard w/ the Dillon set.

But if you sort your brass by headstamp and number of times fired, trim it to the same length, use good bullets and a good seating die, you're unlikely to see any improvement by crimping the rounds.

This is my normal practice...but I find this very hard w/ .223. Because its so common and there is so much of it laying around the range I find it hard to know which are mine. I went to the range recently w/ my reloads comprised of 2 headstamps. I came back w/ 5 different headstamps. I probably should start marking them w/ a Sharpie or something.

 

[Gammon]

This has always been my thinking too, that's why I was surprised the taper die comes standard w/ the Dillon set.



This is my normal practice...but I find this very hard w/ .223. Because its so common and there is so much of it laying around the range I find it hard to know which are mine. I went to the range recently w/ my reloads comprised of 2 headstamps. I came back w/ 5 different headstamps. I probably should start marking them w/ a Sharpie or something.

I gave up sorting my brass by headstamp a long time ago for most of my 223 shooting. For shooting inside 100 yds (most practical rifle matches) I use relatively inexpensive 55 gr IMI bullets with the cannelure and crimp them slightly. The brass is range pick up that works just fine for this purpose. When accuracy is important I use once fired military brass and Sierra 69 gr HPBT bullets with no crimp.

 

[highscore]

I just noticed that I have a .223 Taper Crimp Die in my Dillon die set.

Why would anyone need this? I Googled it, and I can't find anyone who actually uses it. I've never roll crimped or taper crimped a rimless rifle cartridge before and most re loaders I know don't.

Gotta be good for something?

It's good for filling up the last hole in the tool head on my 550. Other than that, not much, at least for loading the match bullets I use.

 

[DukeInFlorida]

For match bullets, and competition shooting, I would NOT ever use anything that deforms the bullets at all.
My reply above was merely addressing the questions posed: Will it squish the bullet without a cannelure. Yes, it would.

I don't see any need to use a factory crimp die on any necked rifle brass which is properly sized, trimmed, etc.

Here's the only exception that comes to mind:

Cast lead bullets in necked rifle calibers. Most of us use a Lyman "M" die to get the neck expanded enough (expanded more than resizing) to get the lead bullet in. There are lots of ways to get the neck back to where it's supposed to be. A Lee (or other manufacturer) factory crimp die, set to just get the brass back to where it's supposed to be, and not deform the bullet, would be of some help. Of course, there aren't many of us who are casting .224 lead bullets. I even have the .22 caliber gas check making tool set. So, this example doesn't apply to most people reloading .224 bullets.

 

[mac1911]

Taper Crimp Die
The taper crimp die is also specially configured to center both the case neck and the case body, thereby aligning the entire cartridge for a more uniform crimp. Dillon Rifle Dies are designed to meet the more rigid requirements for both accuracy and precision demanded by today's marksman.
A taper crimp die is preferred for loading ammunition intended to be used in semiautomatic firearms with detachable box magazines, and in lever-action firearms with tubular magazines.

copied and pasted from dillon web site

 

[mac1911]

Taper Crimp Die
The taper crimp die is also specially configured to center both the case neck and the case body, thereby aligning the entire cartridge for a more uniform crimp. Dillon Rifle Dies are designed to meet the more rigid requirements for both accuracy and precision demanded by today's marksman.
A taper crimp die is preferred for loading ammunition intended to be used in semiautomatic firearms with detachable box magazines, and in lever-action firearms with tubular magazines.

copied and pasted from dillon web site

As usual there seems to be missing information or different terms used from manufacture to manufacture. If you look at the picture on dillons web site of the taper crimp die.....to me it looks more like a roll crimp ? It would be nice if they included "for use with bullets with cannelure" I have been only reloading a short time but this is what I gathered so far

Straight wall pistol cases crimp only enough to remove bell/flare from expander die
rifle roll crimp when useing cannelure bullets
revolvers and tube fed firearms roll crimped with cannelure bullets

I have not bothered to crimp any 223 or 30-06 for my AR or Garand seems neck tennsion is working fine.